700R4...holding gear longer than it should...
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From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z (Sold)
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
700R4...holding gear longer than it should...
I had this problem a few months ago for about a day or so, but it went away and it just came back yesterday.
The transmission shifts into second and third gear about 10 mph higher than it usually does. Once it shifts into the next gear it maintains that gear though. For example, instead of shifting into 3rd at 35 mph, it shifts at 45 mph and if I slow down to 35 mph it will stay in 3rd gear. The fluid is full, and the tranny was just rebuilt about 18 months ago and it hasn't been run very hard at all since then. I don't know if it could be a vaccum leak (as stated in my Chilton's) or if I should look elsewere for a solution. Any help would be appreciated.
Matt
The transmission shifts into second and third gear about 10 mph higher than it usually does. Once it shifts into the next gear it maintains that gear though. For example, instead of shifting into 3rd at 35 mph, it shifts at 45 mph and if I slow down to 35 mph it will stay in 3rd gear. The fluid is full, and the tranny was just rebuilt about 18 months ago and it hasn't been run very hard at all since then. I don't know if it could be a vaccum leak (as stated in my Chilton's) or if I should look elsewere for a solution. Any help would be appreciated.
Matt
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 313
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From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z (Sold)
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Okay, if it is the TV cable, how do I know where it should be adjusted to? I know how to move it, but I am not sure of the proper setting. Shouldn't it be all the way in?
Thanks
Matt
ThanksMatt
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
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From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Originally posted by IROCET
Okay, if it is the TV cable, how do I know where it should be adjusted to? I know how to move it, but I am not sure of the proper setting. Shouldn't it be all the way in?
Thanks
Matt
Okay, if it is the TV cable, how do I know where it should be adjusted to? I know how to move it, but I am not sure of the proper setting. Shouldn't it be all the way in?
ThanksMatt
To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the 'D' shaped lock button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting (The black housing that the metal cable is in will move forward). Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the 'D' button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can (putting maximum tension on the metal cable) and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable casing so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 532
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From: Tennessee
Car: '89 RS
Engine: 9C1 w/ TPI
Transmission: rebuilt 700R4
Originally posted by transfixleo
To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the 'D' shaped lock button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting (The black housing that the metal cable is in will move forward). Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the 'D' button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can (putting maximum tension on the metal cable) and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable casing so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.
To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the 'D' shaped lock button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting (The black housing that the metal cable is in will move forward). Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the 'D' button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can (putting maximum tension on the metal cable) and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable casing so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 313
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From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z (Sold)
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks for the information. I will give that a try and see what happens. I hope this fixes the problem. I'll post as soon as I know.
Matt
Matt
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z (Sold)
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Okay, I didn't have time to use the method you guys talked about today, but I adjusted the sleeve forward a bit before work and it still did it. After work, I put it back where it was...all the way back. It was fine for the entire drive home. I guess I will find out tomorrow what happens when I go to school and stuff. Thanks again.
Matt
Matt
Sounds to me like either the cable or valve is sticking. I believe that this is a common problem with 700s. I think that the transgo kit fixes it if it is actually the part in the tranny sticking. I imagine transfixleo or probuilt or someone could tell you more and what you need to do.
Thanks
Ben
Thanks
Ben
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z (Sold)
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Okay guys...I tried the method you spoke of today. It seems to have worked although it isn't perfect. I think I need to do some tweeking with it to get it where it needs to be. The shifts are coming sooner, but they feel real mushy with little substance. It used to be pretty firm. I am going to try and mess with it more tomorrow.
Matt
Matt
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Member
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 313
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From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z (Sold)
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Well, I have the tranny shifting at about 15-20mph then 35. The 35 is pretty close, but the 1st -2nd at 15 is way to low. It is shifting at about 1500rpm which is about where 2nd picks up. There is no drop in rpm and I would like to see it hold 1st longer, til about 2000-2300 or so.
Also, if I get on the car like when I'm on an entrance ramp trying to get to 65 real quick, it goes right back to shifting really high. It is like it is resetting itself or something. I haven't the slightest idea why. Any ideas? Thanks
Matt
Also, if I get on the car like when I'm on an entrance ramp trying to get to 65 real quick, it goes right back to shifting really high. It is like it is resetting itself or something. I haven't the slightest idea why. Any ideas? Thanks
Matt
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