for those of you using the smaller (9.5") torque converters... especially on stock/near stock L98's....

Does the higher torque multiplication of the smaller converter make up for the "slippy" feeling of a higher stall?

I am going with pro-built for my 700r4 but want lots of opinions on the verter, my personal opinion is a GM 2000 stall S10 verter or a 12" 1,800 that dana also carries, but it would help a lot if i could just drive the darn things before picking..but since I can't....and it's not like i know half of what i'm talking about. so i'm curious if the 9.5" ACT verter will make up for the higher stall with higher torque multiplication? will it feel mushy below 2000? I don't want to have to rev the motor every time i pull away from a light. A lot of my local streets are 45mph, which is sub-2000rpm territory. will it feel mush driving around at those speeds.
If I went with the 9.5" ACT it would be the 2400 stall version.

i drive my car on the street 100% of the time, it has never seen (and will probably never see) a drag strip. the stock ~1500 verter will still spin the tires from idle. i can and do drive it in traffic / in conditions where the motor will never get above 2500 rpm (have to love TPI torque).

thanks for any comments

 

with a higher stall speed, you can get that "mushy" feeling compared to stock. but with the A.C.T. and vigilante converters, you will notice nothing bad about them at all. most people dont even ever know its there until you slam the go pedal

 

I have one of Dana's trannys with a 2600 RPM Vigilante behind a very stock L98. It does require just a little more gas from a stop but nothing objectionable. Its easier to leave hard without spinning than with the stock TC. It's not too much stall for an LTR L98. As long as you go with a small diameter lockup converter the extra slippage will not be a factor when cruising around town. Highly recommended.

 

Mark89 (and anyone else)-

I know i'm being nitpicky about this, but just trying to understand. The part that is difficult for me is that everyone has a different level of objectionable/acceptable.

So, let me ask this...maybe getting more exact numbers will help

Can you tell me about what RPM the car starts moving at? Meaning, say you are sitting at a light in a 35mph zone, and the next light is only 500ft away, and so you want to take it easy. how many RPM's do you need to get up to, to get the car moving, once the light turns green? Once the car is moving at an in-city speed (say 30mph) and the torque converter hasn't locked yet, do you have to hold extra RPM to keep the car moving at a steady speed? When you are going up a mild hill, and come to a stop, and let off the gas, is the car going to roll backward?

If I go with a 9.5" verter it will be the A.C.T. 2400 rpm unit. otherwise i was going to use the 12" S-10 2000rpm GM converter.

Thanks!!
nick

 

The engine may rev another 300-400 RPM for any given driven condition if not in lockup. That's a wag since it's been a while since I put in the converter. Effectively you'll push the pedal a little bit more for any given speed you want to maintain. When in lockup there's no difference. We don't have any hills in Houston other than freeway overpasses so I can't answer your hill question.

 

thanks mark.

if your 2600 only causes slipping of 300-400, then i think maybe a 2400 would work for me.

 

If you install the 9.5" lockup with 2,400 - 2,600 rpm stall from A.C.T., it will not feel much different than an 1,800 rpm stall at light throttle. If you drive ultra conservative, then you might not like it, but with any kind of throttle it is a world of difference.