When I turn my steering wheel, I hear a click...
When I turn my steering wheel, I hear a click...
This has not happened since I bought the car, until around a month ago till now. It doesn't happen on all turns, it usually happens when the wheel is straight (car going straight), then when I go to turn it, theres a click I feel through the steering wheel. It usually clicks when I pass the "straight" position of the wheel. Its just one click, just one thing though now I can kinda hear it outside. When I back up in reverse say out of a parking spot. And I go to drive off, and turn, I hear click, a metal click, almost like a busted tranny mount, except its a quicker click and its not that loud. Obviously the busted tranny mount can be felt where the shifter is. But I feel and hear it on the steering wheel. And I also hear it outside sometimes, cuz it depends whether I have my music up or not. What could it be??
Yeah, damn, forgot to check, hope I remember, and yeah my steering wheel isn't that loose either, actually steering it is pretty damn tough, I thought maybe thats how our steering system was made. Ya def need muscle to turn.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
My GTA and IROC both do it, and neither has a loose wheel. My steering with both of them is very tight and not at all sloppy, but I get the little "click" that I can feel right as I pass center with the wheel. Drives me nuts.
My cherokee did it very badly and it was because a pivot ball on one of the steering components was shot. I just can't remember what piece it was because I didn't change it myself.
My cherokee did it very badly and it was because a pivot ball on one of the steering components was shot. I just can't remember what piece it was because I didn't change it myself.
Careful!!
Mine was doing that and I found out that the frame was cracked where the steering box mounts to the frame.
This is a very common problem on these cars. There's even a factory brace to fix it. It will retrofit on earlier cars too, the bolt holes are already in place!
Must get the frame welded to stop the splitting, then add the brace!
HTH,
Poncho
This is a very common problem on these cars. There's even a factory brace to fix it. It will retrofit on earlier cars too, the bolt holes are already in place!
Must get the frame welded to stop the splitting, then add the brace!
HTH,
Poncho
Re: Careful!!
Originally posted by PonchoTA
Mine was doing that and I found out that the frame was cracked where the steering box mounts to the frame.
This is a very common problem on these cars. There's even a factory brace to fix it. It will retrofit on earlier cars too, the bolt holes are already in place!
Must get the frame welded to stop the splitting, then add the brace!
HTH,
Poncho
Mine was doing that and I found out that the frame was cracked where the steering box mounts to the frame.
This is a very common problem on these cars. There's even a factory brace to fix it. It will retrofit on earlier cars too, the bolt holes are already in place!
Must get the frame welded to stop the splitting, then add the brace!
HTH,
Poncho
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 13,579
Likes: 9
From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Just follow the steering column down to the end. The steering box is what the steering column disappears into. It's bolted to the subframe.
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
Just follow the steering column down to the end. The steering box is what the steering column disappears into. It's bolted to the subframe.
Just follow the steering column down to the end. The steering box is what the steering column disappears into. It's bolted to the subframe.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 3
From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Yes, the steering box bolts to the subframe. May need an impact wrench to remove the big nut holding the steering arm onto the output shaft. Then again, you may not need to disconnect the steering arm if all ya wanna do is look behind the steering box.
Another thing you could do is get a helper to turn the steering wheel abt 1/8 turn from center and back again quickly(with eng off and key on) while you look under the hood and under the front end. If there's any slop anywhere you should be able to see it. May need to wipe the grease and grime off all the mechanical connections and have a good, bright light. If you see any slop, it's too much.
On my Z, I found the drag bar (the long bar that goes from one side of the car to the other) pivots, where the tierods (the rods that go to the wheel spindles and have an adjustable length, like a turnbuckle) connect, were worn out and had slop. I didn't get a click, but got a bad shake when braking. Oddly enough, it drove pretty well.
You say steering is tough. Shouldn't be if you have power steering. Surely your car has power steering. Right?
Another thing you could do is get a helper to turn the steering wheel abt 1/8 turn from center and back again quickly(with eng off and key on) while you look under the hood and under the front end. If there's any slop anywhere you should be able to see it. May need to wipe the grease and grime off all the mechanical connections and have a good, bright light. If you see any slop, it's too much.
On my Z, I found the drag bar (the long bar that goes from one side of the car to the other) pivots, where the tierods (the rods that go to the wheel spindles and have an adjustable length, like a turnbuckle) connect, were worn out and had slop. I didn't get a click, but got a bad shake when braking. Oddly enough, it drove pretty well.
You say steering is tough. Shouldn't be if you have power steering. Surely your car has power steering. Right?
Originally posted by ZZ28ZZ
You say steering is tough. Shouldn't be if you have power steering. Surely your car has power steering. Right?
You say steering is tough. Shouldn't be if you have power steering. Surely your car has power steering. Right?
..I have an aftermarket steering wheel, I think B&M? I can't remember. But its a three spoke, Y-design, with three holes in the chrome spokes. Maybe that has something to do with it. The prev owner installed the wheel, maybe he did bad job??
Thanks for the help!
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,353
Likes: 3
From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If it's a lot easier to turn the wheel with the eng running (while parked) than with eng off and it dosen't make a lot of noise, it's probably OK.
If it's not working, it's a serious struggle to turn when stopped.
A smaller diameter steering wheel will require a bit more effort, but not all that much. I put on a 13" steering wheel (Grant). It steers real fast now; almost too fast at high speed.
Can you tell if the "click" is coming from the inside or outside?
If it's on the inside, it may be part of your turn signal canceling mechanism. That's what turns off your blinker after you make a turn and straighten the wheel.
Regardless, it's still not a bad idea to crawl under the front end and watch everything operate as I mentioned previously.
If it's not working, it's a serious struggle to turn when stopped.
A smaller diameter steering wheel will require a bit more effort, but not all that much. I put on a 13" steering wheel (Grant). It steers real fast now; almost too fast at high speed.
Can you tell if the "click" is coming from the inside or outside?
If it's on the inside, it may be part of your turn signal canceling mechanism. That's what turns off your blinker after you make a turn and straighten the wheel.
Regardless, it's still not a bad idea to crawl under the front end and watch everything operate as I mentioned previously.
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