Should I get new gears or just swap a 4th gen rear?
Should I get new gears or just swap a 4th gen rear?
My setup right now is a stock 2.73 posi rear end with drum brakes and I have 4th gen wheels on my car with spacers. I want to get 3.42 gears but should I buy a set of gears or buy a 4th gen rear? Which option is easier and cheaper? As I see it a 4th gen rear would probably be better because I could get rid of my spacers, get the gears I want, and get rear disc brakes. I know this topic comes up a lot but I would just like some opinions. Thanks in advance.
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
I just put in a 3.42 from a 98. I still have not have time to research a solution to make the parking brakes work. The new ones are too short to work using the pb cable retainers that are on my 90 formula with drums. I though i saw somewere that you need the ones off the 4th gen.
I highly recommend to run some LCA relocaters. My stock ws6 suspension LCA's were higher in the back than in the front. This is what causes wheel hop. I thew in spohn LCA's w/ the spherical/polyurathane combo bushings and the LCA's. You can truely feel the difference when coming out of the hole. The car does not burn out and you really feel the rear squat and grip.
One last note. LS1 cars (97-2002) have bigger brakes that require 16" rims. These brakes make stopping night and day compared to stock.
Email me if you hear of a solution to my problem.
Later
Mike
I highly recommend to run some LCA relocaters. My stock ws6 suspension LCA's were higher in the back than in the front. This is what causes wheel hop. I thew in spohn LCA's w/ the spherical/polyurathane combo bushings and the LCA's. You can truely feel the difference when coming out of the hole. The car does not burn out and you really feel the rear squat and grip.
One last note. LS1 cars (97-2002) have bigger brakes that require 16" rims. These brakes make stopping night and day compared to stock.
Email me if you hear of a solution to my problem.
Later
Mike
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I'm debating the situation myself. I have a '91 RS with the peg leg 2.73 drum rear. I already have the SLP posi and a set of 3.23 gears (I like my mileage), but I'm thinking the complete rear swap is the way to go. After all, I still have to have the gears installed. Checking around, that's about $250-300 (labor/parts).
I know you can get a whole rear for $250-300 and not have to do anything to the diff. PLUS step up to discs. Only thing you'll need is the cables.
Just something to think about.
I know you can get a whole rear for $250-300 and not have to do anything to the diff. PLUS step up to discs. Only thing you'll need is the cables.
Just something to think about.
I have the same exact question. I can either buy gears bushings and installation for like 575 or just get a new rearend for a 300-400 and put it in myself. what to do? How good is the 4th gen 3.42 compared to 3.73 in my stock 9 bolt borg warner rearend?
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
THANK YOU ARON!!!! This is all I need to run the LS1 p-brake?? The LT1 disc brakes are different.
GTA BB
I had a 9 bolt in my 89 and refused to put it back it. Why?
#1 I strongly believe in the LCA relocators. Even my new (new to me) bird I just got had the rear of the control arm higher than the front. That causes severe wheel hop, even with my stock 170 hp motor and a peg legged 2.73. I stun out if the hole at the track and went nowhere. You can physically feel the rear of the car drop down and stick to the asphault out of the hole now. I'll be at the track this or the next Friday to record stage 1's result.
#2 I wanted to go up to a 3.42. Now with it in, it really is not that much noticeable from the 3.27 9 bolt, but I have that six speed and I'm going to lose some 1st gear ratio taking out my 700R4.
#3 The brakes on the 97+ rears are really really awesome. Definately the best stock brakes. There is only a finger tip distance between the 16" wheel and the caliper.
#4 Parts for the 9 are more expensive. The only real advantage they have over the 10 bolt is that it uses axel bearing retainers instead of c-clips. C-clip rears are drag legal to 12 sec and slower I think. If I ever hit 11's with this one, I weld on retainers, but not for sure not before that. Also, Summit has a rear girdle to strengthen the rear if necessary, and I can not find one for the 9 bolt.
I could go on, but I hope I have convinced you enough to grab a LSI rear. Auto's are 3.23 and m6's have 3.42.
Gas milage note. With the 700R4, I just ran 245 miles on a full tank. I refilled 14.5 gallons giving me 16.7 mpg. I should hit over 19 with the 6 spd and ac off.
The 3.23 on my 89 TPI used to get about 220-230 miles, but it breathed much better than the 2 1/4" crap that comes on stock TBI.
Act like a tennis shoe, and just DO IT!
GTA BB
I had a 9 bolt in my 89 and refused to put it back it. Why?
#1 I strongly believe in the LCA relocators. Even my new (new to me) bird I just got had the rear of the control arm higher than the front. That causes severe wheel hop, even with my stock 170 hp motor and a peg legged 2.73. I stun out if the hole at the track and went nowhere. You can physically feel the rear of the car drop down and stick to the asphault out of the hole now. I'll be at the track this or the next Friday to record stage 1's result.
#2 I wanted to go up to a 3.42. Now with it in, it really is not that much noticeable from the 3.27 9 bolt, but I have that six speed and I'm going to lose some 1st gear ratio taking out my 700R4.
#3 The brakes on the 97+ rears are really really awesome. Definately the best stock brakes. There is only a finger tip distance between the 16" wheel and the caliper.
#4 Parts for the 9 are more expensive. The only real advantage they have over the 10 bolt is that it uses axel bearing retainers instead of c-clips. C-clip rears are drag legal to 12 sec and slower I think. If I ever hit 11's with this one, I weld on retainers, but not for sure not before that. Also, Summit has a rear girdle to strengthen the rear if necessary, and I can not find one for the 9 bolt.
I could go on, but I hope I have convinced you enough to grab a LSI rear. Auto's are 3.23 and m6's have 3.42.
Gas milage note. With the 700R4, I just ran 245 miles on a full tank. I refilled 14.5 gallons giving me 16.7 mpg. I should hit over 19 with the 6 spd and ac off.
The 3.23 on my 89 TPI used to get about 220-230 miles, but it breathed much better than the 2 1/4" crap that comes on stock TBI.
Act like a tennis shoe, and just DO IT!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
From: Mpls, MN USA
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 427 BBC
Transmission: T400
I can either buy gears bushings and installation for like 575
If you want more info why the 9 bolt is much stronger than a 10 bolt, it's all at www.9bolt.com
Miles
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