2.8 Rebuild
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 126
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From: New York
2.8 Rebuild
Ok in a few months i'll haul out the v6 2.8 and rebuild it.. i know a lot will say "swap in a 3.1.. 3.4.. 3.8.. put in a 350.. v8.. blah".. but reallly i'm just building up this 2.8 and thats that.. so.. could anyone list out anything and everything I could do to it.. i'll try to give almost everything a lot of consideration.. but as $$ isn't unlimited i'll have to only do some.. and ya I did do a search.. I only found a few things.. mostly on 2.8 swaps to something else.... and I don't know how much i'll spend.. i should have a fair amount whored up by the time i pull it though
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I was just about to yell at you for not doing a search! I guess I know what to search for since I remember what I wrote about; but here's a message that I'll quote for ya... it's from: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=112671 Originally posted by TomP
The "hidden cost" is machine work. Is this a new block? Will it need any prep work before you can use it?
If it's a used block, you need to pay for a hot tank (cleaning with hot acid) and magnaflux (checks block for cracks- cracked block = throw it out). The hot tank destroys camshaft bearings, so new ones need to be installed. (Tool is $200, cam bearings are cheap, it's better to leave the installation/alignment of (oil feed holes) the bearings to the shop).
Putting in a used crank? You should have it magnafluxed (crack check) and see if the bearing surfaces should be ground down. Grind a crank too much = too weak = might want to throw it out. You've also got to get the correct main bearing size- will you measure that, or will you let the shop buy the correct bearings for you? (More accurate for them to do it, a bit more expensive than ordering bearings from PAW.)
How 'bout those heads? Want to do valve work now or later? Hot tank, magnaflux, valve job.
New connecting rods, or re-using? Reusing = Magnaflux. Want them shot peened (compresses metal for extra strength)? Will they press them onto the pistons, or will you try?
See? The machine work adds up fast. I was told on the tech board to buy the rebuild kit from the machine shop- yes, it'll be more expensive, BUT, the machine shop will appreciate that, and will take extra care with your motor. Plus, what if you ordered bearings through the mail, and they didn't fit? You'd have to send them back, wait for new ones, etc.... the local machine shop would put the incorrect bearings on the shelf, and hand you correct ones.
Forged pistons are an "instant" extra $300 from PAW over the cast ones. I'll use cast in my rebuild. People on the power adder board use cast pistons with a mild nitrous shot with no problems, and I refuse to spend $300 more for 2.8 pistons- but that's just me. It's sick how v8 forged pistons are so cheap.
The "hidden cost" is machine work. Is this a new block? Will it need any prep work before you can use it?
If it's a used block, you need to pay for a hot tank (cleaning with hot acid) and magnaflux (checks block for cracks- cracked block = throw it out). The hot tank destroys camshaft bearings, so new ones need to be installed. (Tool is $200, cam bearings are cheap, it's better to leave the installation/alignment of (oil feed holes) the bearings to the shop).
Putting in a used crank? You should have it magnafluxed (crack check) and see if the bearing surfaces should be ground down. Grind a crank too much = too weak = might want to throw it out. You've also got to get the correct main bearing size- will you measure that, or will you let the shop buy the correct bearings for you? (More accurate for them to do it, a bit more expensive than ordering bearings from PAW.)
How 'bout those heads? Want to do valve work now or later? Hot tank, magnaflux, valve job.
New connecting rods, or re-using? Reusing = Magnaflux. Want them shot peened (compresses metal for extra strength)? Will they press them onto the pistons, or will you try?
See? The machine work adds up fast. I was told on the tech board to buy the rebuild kit from the machine shop- yes, it'll be more expensive, BUT, the machine shop will appreciate that, and will take extra care with your motor. Plus, what if you ordered bearings through the mail, and they didn't fit? You'd have to send them back, wait for new ones, etc.... the local machine shop would put the incorrect bearings on the shelf, and hand you correct ones.
Forged pistons are an "instant" extra $300 from PAW over the cast ones. I'll use cast in my rebuild. People on the power adder board use cast pistons with a mild nitrous shot with no problems, and I refuse to spend $300 more for 2.8 pistons- but that's just me.
It's sick how v8 forged pistons are so cheap. Fer instance, like I just posted, you wouldn't want to do cam bearings yourself. The tool is too expensive for a one-time use, and if you misalign an oil feed hole, you'll melt the cam. V8 cam bearings will fit into our V6 block to improve the cam's longevity (larger bearing surface), but they're a tight fit, and best left to a machine shop's expertise. A shop only charges about $15-20 to put new cam bearings in. (They get destroyed in a hot-tank.)
But you might want to get a set of micrometers to determine bearing size. You might want a dial indicator and magnetic stand. You might want a pair of dial calipers. What about a valve spring compressor and harmonic balancer installer/puller? You will definately want a piston ring installer & piston ring compressor, and a good torque wrench.
If you have a shop get the rebuild kit, they'll probably make sure their kit fits with proper clearance (cam bearings & piston rings/pistons), so you wouldn't need the micrometers. (Might want to buy plastigage ($3) to check their measurements, though.)You might want to do my plan. I want to get a junkyard f-body 2.8... my yard told me I could have one for $100. I'll rebuild that one, and I'll still be able to drive my car around. Then one weekend, I'll back the car into the driveway, and do the swap.
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