I just bought the 2 way R-134a retro fit& charging kit. It came with r134a oil and Refrigerent. 2 Cans of 134-a and I got it at pep boys.


All it says is have it emptied, I did

THen it says screw the r-134a adapters that are coated on each of the service ports. I only can find one service port on the reciever/dryer. I had the AC unit replaced a few years back and got a new dryer and compressor. I am sure it was r-12 because it was only 3 years ago. Where is the low pressure service port. my hayes and chiltons do not have any pictures of it. Also how long does it take a can to empty into the system? It says nothing about schrader valves. I do know I got new ones when they redid the system 3 years ago.

Is it really that simple?

 

low side hookup will be on the accumalator itself, usually on the pass side.From what I've heard, the R-12 ports will be smaller than the 134-a ports. when you had it emptied, did they take care of the oil too? the ld & new will not mix, and make sure your a/c cables are in good condition.

 

Brain,
All I can offer is my R-12 recharge, compressor failure, system recharge incident.
With all fittings connected,
Discharge was about 5 minutes tops.
Charging with R-12 was about 5-7 minutes.
I recently changed by Orifice filter tube, dryer and compressor.
The fittings.
The one you seek is close by your passenger side front fender.
You have auto tranny?
Find those lines on the raditor.
Right by those tubes is one tube, attached to the inner fender area.
It passes under the Dryer to the firewall.
You will find that fitting close to the front of the car, on that bottom line. It has a cap very much like car tire & the one already removed.
Have you changed the Orfice tube yet?
Are you sure the dryer you have is for the 134.
What about the o rings?
New, changed, upgraded, if need be?

Enjoy the rewards of your effort.

My belt bounces while compressor is operating.
When compressor is just going for ride, it remains flat, taught.
Normal?

 

Yea I am not too sure about those kits. They say it will work on any car. And all it is, is two plastic adapters so that the fttings are tight. two cans of 143a and a can of oil.
real basic instruction and no where enough info to do it right.

cost like 20 bucks at any auto store.

 

Hmmmm.........Karl, I'll give you MY experience. About a year ago when I worked for Toyota, I tried to fix my A/C. I had no money so I had a co-worker with "connections" get me a re-man compressor for about $110. I installed it and charged the system.

Now, with the A/C OFF, the belt was fine...no problems. BUT, with the A/C ON, the belt started bouncing like CRAZY. It actually bounced and hit my frieking radiator hose and took a chunk out of it!!!! As it turned out, the compressor was JUNK. It rattled and shook so I returned it. Now I have my GM/Harrison compressor and all is good. No shaking, no bouncing. Just something to think about, Karl.

 

When I go over the hill again, I'll ask the guys I got it from.
I agree, it "bounces" a range of 3/4" (visually).
Nothing extremly violent.... - NEW belt, too.
I do have the GM Harrison unit tho.
Rebuilt by a place in Texas.
Gotta tell ya my car realy zipped after the new rebuilt alternator..
Surprised me!

 

The r-134 fittings are larger quick disconnect fittings. The r-12 has a smaller screw-on type fitting. If they only worked on it 3 years ago than there may be a chance it was recharged with r134. If it was retrofitted to r134 It is required by federal law for the mechanic to place a sticker on the unit to let the consumer know it has been retrofitted. R-134 has been in service on new vehicles since around 1993 or 1994, so it has been around a while.
Converting them over is pretty simple the new fitting screws on top of the existing r12 fitting . The low pressure fitting should be on the filter drier/accumulator . The high pressure side is on the small tube . All of the r-12 must be emptied before installing r134. They are not compatable.
Ideally the system should be pumped down with a vacuum pump before r134 is put in , this eliminates any chance of r12 or moisture being in the system ,plus the r134 will go in better because there is a vacuum in the system. If you can make a hose up to connect to the quick disconnect you can actually use a vacuum line from the engine to pump the system down but make sure your A/C is off. Plus a vacuum guage in the line will help.
Always fill from the low pressure side and Im almost positive oil goes in first. NEVER mess with the high pressure side , That is basically just a port to put guages on to check head pressure.
Make sure you go by the instructions with the kit .
R134 is not as cool as the R-12 but it still does a pretty good job.
The best refrigerant is propane but its extremely dangerous if you have a leak and illegal.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

 

Oh By the way, They shold give you a little guage to let you know how much refrigerant is in the system. It doent take long to empty a can. The can will get cold as you are filling the system when it start s to get warm again the can is getting low . You can shake the can and that will tell you how much is left. Somtimes you cant get the whole can in pecause the pressure equalizes betwwen the pressure in the can and the system . you may have to close the valeve on the can to let it warm back up and then reopen it. Make sure you dont put too much in , It will lock up the compressor.

 

What's the temp my R-12 AC dash vent should be?

 

But how do you know what is too much. the kit says to put all 3 can in. oil and 2 gas. I know cause I did it to my bird. 20 buck kits, says it so easy, 100% idot proof. but you know what, my compressor was locked up. been 2-3 years since I have had a belt on the AC to try it. any chance it is unlocked by now.

Guy said when I got the car that it worked, just needed a new can of **** every year. I did the change over kit and got no where.

My car is sooooooooooooo hot in the summer. Black, and no head linner. Like sitting uder a hot plate.

 

You need do as I just did.
Compressor
Dryer
Orfice Tube
What you said, black interior....
Unfortuanly my 1967 Camaro Convert is a Black interior.
Pretty yellow outside, but,,,
I use towels so I can sit in car.

 

If you are just doing a conversion , the filter/dryer does not have to be changed . There once was a myth that when you converted to r134 you had to change the filter /dryer, the r-12 one works fine. Unless you have to replace the compressor, because of damage, like KED says it should be changed .

On the compressor it has a tag that says how much refrigerant is needed. There is also a guage that you can check it with ,looks like a tire pressure guage.

If the compressor is locked up chances are it is done.

 

Ok, so since my system is completely empty, what all do I need to do. The lines have been broke open, So I need to replace the compressor, orfice tube. Then take somewhere and have it flushed, and then I prob pay someone to go ahead and fill it while its their, but I would like to cut down some of the expenses. PLEASE tell me I dont have to replace the compressor

 

Here's reality.
My system came to me, unoperational when I bought my 1985 car.
I "tested" the compressor, by bypassing the safety low pressure valve.
Few turns, comp worked, thought I was lucky.
I fill the system.
Two days later & $$$.......

Check the orfice filter & dryer, that'll tell ya alot.
If you think you can get away without the compressor, you are lucky.
Reality, I lost & had to change the compressor.

 

Ok I retrofitted my system last summer and heres what I did...

I got the kit with the 2 cans and oil. You need 42? oz TOTAL refrig AND oil. So you will need another 8oz 134 can.

The low pressure is right beside the big can like object(the drier). You screw in an adapter there.

You first turn on car WITH A/C OFF
then hook up the the 8oz oil can and turn system ON. Few seconds to empty at most. Hold upside down to get all of it.

Then start putting ing the cans of 134. Again holding upside down when they start to warm back up(they get freggin cold as hell empting)

Your system(A/C Compressor Clutch) SHOULD LOCK ENGAGED after the second can. The 2 cans of 134 and oil will bring system up to "Minimum Pressure".

 

So since its been broke open, it dont matter. I know on the r12 systems you had to have it "flushed" for contaminents. no need for that on the 134a?? And so on that adapter kit, no changing any parts at all, other then screwing on the adapters?? I get some many diff answers, I dont know whats truely right for my app. since it has been broke open.

 

Heres the tech article.. I thought there was one.. I was 2 oz off on the total though.. 40 not 42... But hell after a years thats damn good... Assuming nothings wrong woth the compressor what I wrote is all that's needed. The 3 12oz cans R134 and another 8oz PAG OIL Oz

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...trofitac.shtml

 

I "flushed" my system by charging it and making it operational. Then it seized.
The orifice trapped all the "stuff".
I changed orifice and the guy said no need to flush for me.
It's been charged and operating very good since it was done few days ago.
NOT as exactly ice cold as I'd like it.
I kinda recall our new 1969 Ford Wagon AC being colder.
Yet these F Bodies do have LOTS of glass space.
WILL get Real Test this coming week with over 100* temps.

 

Coolio, I think I will go ahead and change out my orfice now, and then hook that up. AFTER I get the tranny fixed. thanks

 

Orfice tube replacement is a good idea. But make sure you have the system pumped down with a vacuum pump if the system has been open. Air and moisture is the number 1 cause of compressor failure and lock up. Air and moisture is harder to compress than refrigerant gas. No.2 cause is over filling the unit . The compressor pumps the refrigerant as a gas form. If you overfill the system the liquid refrigerant will get back to the compressor causing lock up.