Ok, I have been messing with this car for a while now and can't figure it out. Basically, I have narrowed it down to a loose wire/connection somewhere, or maybe a relay. It could also be a problem with the VATS. Heres' the symptoms:

Starts sometimes, doesnt start others.
Usually this happens when hot, but not all the time.
If it's not starting, then it does not click, or turnover, or do anything at all.
Headlights and stereo are strong.
When I turn the key forward, I can hear the fuel pump hum 1-2-3 seconds.

Battery, alt., and starter are all in great working order.

Does this sound like the VATS?
Could it be an ignition problem?

If it is the VATS, how do I disconnect it? Its an '89 2.8 MP Auto. How can I be sure I even have this?

Thanks a bunch guys.
Jason

Doesn't sound like VATS. If it is, your SECURITY light will stay lit, no fuel pump sound, and your car will be disabled for around 10 minutes (some say 7, some 10, some 15).

Well last night, after it was stranded again, I went to crank it. This time, for the first time ever, It slowly cranked. It turned over and I had to hold the key forward for about 5-6 seconds to get it all the way cranked. Is it just me or does this sound like a battery problem? Its been tested and charged, and all the places say its fine.

If not the battery or charging problem, I would reexamine the wiring at the starter or the starter itself. After I got my 83 back together, I would be occasionally plagued with a slow cranking problem. Turned out my wires were not attatched tightly to the solenoid. After I tightened them I was driving one day and the car quit. Had radio, headlights and all accessories. Wire that was loose was now dangling freely due to exhaust heat cooking the wire. I rewired it and wrapped it in the wire conduit and haven't had a problem since then.

Maybe you have a bad wiring to the starter enable relay which is behind the driver side kick panel. You know some connector lose or corroded.

I tried to get back on that night but could not(DAMN ISP) VATS was 90-92.
Slow cranking is bad wiring/battery. BUT you also have a neutral safety switch in the center console that could be acting up. As you said some times it cranks away but does not start. The no starting may be something else or it just not might be getting a steady signal from the switch.

I would get a multimeter and have the car in the air, with the plug to the coil undone to prevent(for once intentionally) starting. Hook the multimeter to the starter and check voltage readings(while cranking). Best sure way to see if you have a constant power supply. Do this a couple of times and go average, if it acts up then you know you have a bad wire somewhere.

I think that neutral/safety switch(prevents starting in anything but Park or Neutral, but they also tend to select any gear when they get old) is under 15 bucks I think... not positive though. Mounted to the shifter console under the center console. I had one go bad in a '76 Z...

Off by a year, I got VATS, that little "butt" looking thing on the key.

Now the B*tch won't start at all. My dad and I bought a remote starter and a voltmeter to see what we can do. Its stranded in the wal mart parking lot right now. If its a problem somewhere in the ignition switch, hopefully the remote starter will bypass it. If not we can see where there's a lack of voltage.

Thank *** for towing insurance.

Well, I got it to start with the remote starter. I guess this means ignition problem! Any suggestions?