It was the timing chain...Thanks Ked
It was the timing chain...Thanks Ked
Remember this thread?
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=104136
My water pump went out on me and I took Ked's advice and put in a new timing chain and gears and the jerking and vibrating problem is now solved.
It runs a LOT better now. NO jerking anymore. Thanks Ked. Continue to harp on about the importance of a new timing set. At 130,00 miles it was just what the doctor ordered.
My timing was set at the stock 10 degrees.
But the engine does have a slight pinging in it but only when it is under extreme load, such as in lower RPM's while attempting to accellerate on an incline.
Wondering of the timing should be a little higher or if something else needs attention.
Anyway...Thanks KED...you were right on.
Jay
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=104136
My water pump went out on me and I took Ked's advice and put in a new timing chain and gears and the jerking and vibrating problem is now solved.
It runs a LOT better now. NO jerking anymore. Thanks Ked. Continue to harp on about the importance of a new timing set. At 130,00 miles it was just what the doctor ordered.
My timing was set at the stock 10 degrees.
But the engine does have a slight pinging in it but only when it is under extreme load, such as in lower RPM's while attempting to accellerate on an incline.
Wondering of the timing should be a little higher or if something else needs attention.
Anyway...Thanks KED...you were right on.
Jay
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 0
From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
I would check Vaccum lines first to see if there are any cracks in them.
If not:
Many people on this board, such as myself found that our cars ran better at 12-14* rather then 10*.
So if you have a timing gun go nuts and try it.
If not:
Many people on this board, such as myself found that our cars ran better at 12-14* rather then 10*.
So if you have a timing gun go nuts and try it.
Wires (Accel), plugs, rotor, Cap, TPS, are all new.
I will attempt to check the vacume lines.
Looking in through the throttle body I can see a TON of black crud in there. I hate that fricken EGR...dumping crap in there.
I have a set of headers that have no provision for an EGR (Hookers) that I have not installed yet. Love to eliminate it if possible.
I would just be happy with it running stock if It would.
If it is gas, Do I need higher or lower octane?
I will attempt to check the vacume lines.
Looking in through the throttle body I can see a TON of black crud in there. I hate that fricken EGR...dumping crap in there.
I have a set of headers that have no provision for an EGR (Hookers) that I have not installed yet. Love to eliminate it if possible.
I would just be happy with it running stock if It would.
If it is gas, Do I need higher or lower octane?
Last edited by KJay; Aug 18, 2002 at 12:48 PM.
Originally posted by KJay
Wires (Accel), plugs, rotor, Cap, TPS, are all new.
I will attempt to check the vacume lines.
Looking in through the throttle body I can see a TON of black crud in there. I hate that fricken EGR...dumping crap in there.
I have a set of headers that have no provision for an EGR (Hookers) that I have not installed yet. Love to eliminate it if possible.
I would just be happy with it running stock if It would.
If it is gas, Do I need higher or lower octane?
Wires (Accel), plugs, rotor, Cap, TPS, are all new.
I will attempt to check the vacume lines.
Looking in through the throttle body I can see a TON of black crud in there. I hate that fricken EGR...dumping crap in there.
I have a set of headers that have no provision for an EGR (Hookers) that I have not installed yet. Love to eliminate it if possible.
I would just be happy with it running stock if It would.
If it is gas, Do I need higher or lower octane?
Also check plug gap.
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