Ignition Upgrade
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 141
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From: North Providence, Rhode Island
Car: 1985 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V-6
Transmission: TH-700R4
Ignition Upgrade
Ok...lets say that I am going to upgrade my ignition system a little bit with the following stuff that seems to be popular amongst v6ers...holley ignition module...msd wires...either the accel or msd direct fit coil and the accel cap and rotor set...also i would upgrade my plugs to ac delcos of some sort...a couple questions...how much would this really benefit my car...its an 85 with 134 k on the motor...about 5k on a rebuilt tranny...original rear end and all...because before i go spend any money i just need to weight out the benefits and disadvantages to this...any input would be great...i would also probably rebuild my distributor while i'm at it...this is another question...are the distributors the same from 85 up...because i figure to pull one out of the boneyard...rebuild it and install it into my car...suggestions would be great...i appreciate the help...
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Part of it depends on what you plan on doing with the car. Daily driver I was told that swapping to a new IG module was pointless. However, I think putting a 40-50 bux coil, and the good wires, cap, rotor, plugs are a very big plus. I have yet to see the desire to put the msd6a box on either of mine due to the cost, and what little gains I here from it
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Fort Belvoir, VA USA
Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
On a daily Driver, a new Ignition module is defiantly not pointless!!!!
These can cause several problems when they do burn out! Your car will run fine, until one moment it will stall and you can't start the car back up until the module cools down!
A better ignitio is very benificial, at least it was to me! You'll have a much smoother idle, a lot easier start, and you'll be getting your "potential" horsepower. If you feel a increase in power, you have only gained what your old weak ignition was cuaseing you to loose power becuase it wasn't geting the best spark, which in turn wasn't completly burning off all your fuel mixture.
Which brings up another point, by burning off all the fuel/air mixture, you'll have a much better gas mileage is is very critical in a daily driver!
Don't waste your time putting the direct fit coil in stock location, its defiantly to HOT there and can burn out your new coil. I would recomend a direct fit and mount that on the cowl, away from the manifolds! You can mount a direct fit back there if you want to!
You don't have to use a msd 6a or 6al, most have noticed a harder start, but defiantly on a minor amount of power, but a much better spark, save the money and buy the box last, after you play with the engine!
I rebuilt my distributor in two hours, and thats included remove and re-installation. Why bother getting another one? Do you think there is something wrong with yours that you need antoher one to rebuild?
These can cause several problems when they do burn out! Your car will run fine, until one moment it will stall and you can't start the car back up until the module cools down!
A better ignitio is very benificial, at least it was to me! You'll have a much smoother idle, a lot easier start, and you'll be getting your "potential" horsepower. If you feel a increase in power, you have only gained what your old weak ignition was cuaseing you to loose power becuase it wasn't geting the best spark, which in turn wasn't completly burning off all your fuel mixture.
Which brings up another point, by burning off all the fuel/air mixture, you'll have a much better gas mileage is is very critical in a daily driver!
Don't waste your time putting the direct fit coil in stock location, its defiantly to HOT there and can burn out your new coil. I would recomend a direct fit and mount that on the cowl, away from the manifolds! You can mount a direct fit back there if you want to!
You don't have to use a msd 6a or 6al, most have noticed a harder start, but defiantly on a minor amount of power, but a much better spark, save the money and buy the box last, after you play with the engine!
I rebuilt my distributor in two hours, and thats included remove and re-installation. Why bother getting another one? Do you think there is something wrong with yours that you need antoher one to rebuild?
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Fort Belvoir, VA USA
Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
I also feeled compled to tell you that my Holley modular only lasted six months. Make sure you have enough "heat sink grease", you can buy that at any computer hardware store. That packet of stuff they give you isn't enough!!!! I thought I had enough to keep this thing alive, but I quess I didn't
I defiantly noticed a huge difference from my old worn out stock AC Delco to the Holley Modular. I had to put my old on back in and am temted to put a AC Delco in (which costs the same as the Holley) to see the difference. I plan on selling the car soon so they test would be worth the info. (Don't worry, I will be getting a FWD GM 60* for a new daily driver while I build up a 93-97 Trans Am, I don't feel like putting any more money into this car)
I defiantly noticed a huge difference from my old worn out stock AC Delco to the Holley Modular. I had to put my old on back in and am temted to put a AC Delco in (which costs the same as the Holley) to see the difference. I plan on selling the car soon so they test would be worth the info. (Don't worry, I will be getting a FWD GM 60* for a new daily driver while I build up a 93-97 Trans Am, I don't feel like putting any more money into this car)
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Actually, I pulled a distributor from a junkyard car before I rebuilt mine. I figured in case I screwed up, I'd have a backup. Didn't know how easy it was to rebuild a distributor, otherwise I wouldn't have spent the $15 at the yard. But yeah, distributors would be the same, 85-92. Don't forget to buy a new o-ring seal (1 inch inside diameter) for the distributor shaft. And if you have trouble pulling a distributor out of the car after you remove the hold down bolt, on a 85-89 2.8l, check this message: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=129898
And yeah, I noticed very little gain from my MSD 6AL box. I put it on because I was running out of bolt-on mods to do to the car. Definately save your coin for other mods that can do more. Plus, finding a spot for it is a complete bitch!
By adding an aftermarket coil to my car, I noticed more power at higher rpm's. By adding aftermarket wires (as opposed to cheap $15 7mm wires), it seemed like the car revv'd up faster/easier. If your distributor cap is the original (or very old), it could have tons of carbon tracking on the terminals inside, which will weaken your spark.
Ever done wires before? Do what I do, so you don't put them on in the wrong order. Make a quick diagram, showing the engine, with the distributor cap, and draw all the plug wires in. It's also best to replace the wires one at a time; but if you aren't paying attention and pull two wires off by mistake, you could get confused. Remember the #1 cylinder is the frontmost PASSENGER side cylinder (not like v8 motors). Follow that #1 plug wire back to the cap. Go clockwise around the cap after the #1 wire, and that'll give you the firing order. Firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 (easy huh?), so if you absolutely positively know where the #1 plug wire goes on the cap, you can figure out the rest of the cylinders.
And yeah, I noticed very little gain from my MSD 6AL box. I put it on because I was running out of bolt-on mods to do to the car. Definately save your coin for other mods that can do more. Plus, finding a spot for it is a complete bitch!
By adding an aftermarket coil to my car, I noticed more power at higher rpm's. By adding aftermarket wires (as opposed to cheap $15 7mm wires), it seemed like the car revv'd up faster/easier. If your distributor cap is the original (or very old), it could have tons of carbon tracking on the terminals inside, which will weaken your spark.
Ever done wires before? Do what I do, so you don't put them on in the wrong order. Make a quick diagram, showing the engine, with the distributor cap, and draw all the plug wires in. It's also best to replace the wires one at a time; but if you aren't paying attention and pull two wires off by mistake, you could get confused. Remember the #1 cylinder is the frontmost PASSENGER side cylinder (not like v8 motors). Follow that #1 plug wire back to the cap. Go clockwise around the cap after the #1 wire, and that'll give you the firing order. Firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 (easy huh?), so if you absolutely positively know where the #1 plug wire goes on the cap, you can figure out the rest of the cylinders.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 904
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From: Sacramento, CA
Car: See pic above
Engine: Too Small
Transmission: Broken
I just want to add that when you go to rebuild the distributor, take the cap off before you pull it from the car and mark where the rotor is pointing. Then when you go to put the distributor back in, just point the rotor in the same position. That way, you'll at least have the firing order right. I didn't do that when I pulled the distributor to replace the o-ring. Took an hour for me to figure out why my firing order was off. Finally pulled off the cap, found TDC for #1 cylinder, and rearranged the wires accordingly. Turns out each wire was one terminal off cause the rotor had turned while I had the distributor out. (didn't help that I kept spinning it around while I had it out tho
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The answer is...
ALSO REPLACE TIMING CHAIN!
You will almost believe you have "rebuilt" your engine with the power increase you will feel.
It is involved, but so worth it.
It's along weekend project.
Make sure you obtain a Pioneer Balancer sleeve ($4), too, to repair groved balancer snout.
Cost of this project may break $100, but again, so worth it.
Distributor rebuild is so easy.
Is my distributor rebuild article a tech thread, too?
Newer 4th Gen Firebird...
GREAT CHOICE!!!!!!!
ALSO REPLACE TIMING CHAIN!
You will almost believe you have "rebuilt" your engine with the power increase you will feel.
It is involved, but so worth it.
It's along weekend project.
Make sure you obtain a Pioneer Balancer sleeve ($4), too, to repair groved balancer snout.
Cost of this project may break $100, but again, so worth it.
Distributor rebuild is so easy.
Is my distributor rebuild article a tech thread, too?
Newer 4th Gen Firebird...
GREAT CHOICE!!!!!!!
Autolite plugs are the best money can buy. I've used these in my streetcars and race cars for years. They have alot bigger and more durable electrode than do A/C delco plugs or any others for that matter, You can run as hot an ignition as you can and gap them further. They are reliable as hell.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,049
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From: Garland, TX, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS & 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1 L v6 & 305 (5.0L) v8
Transmission: 4L60 Auto
Autolite plugs suck in camaros, nothing like the rapid fire AC Delco pulgs.
Also getting a MSD GM blaster or ACCEL bolt in is a waste of money. The coil does not produce anymore voltage or current then you stock one. The only benift of this coil is it might give you a better spark above 4,000 rpm, but if your a daily drive you won't see anything. Besides the primary leaks off like a b*tch if you have ever looked at it in the dark on those GM style coils.
Go with Blaster 3, has 100 to 1 ratio and produces 45,000 with 12volt stock supply , use half the MSD GM adaptor harness so you don't have to cut anything and slide on terminal adaptors to the coil. When I finish my setup I will post pics.
Also getting a MSD GM blaster or ACCEL bolt in is a waste of money. The coil does not produce anymore voltage or current then you stock one. The only benift of this coil is it might give you a better spark above 4,000 rpm, but if your a daily drive you won't see anything. Besides the primary leaks off like a b*tch if you have ever looked at it in the dark on those GM style coils.
Go with Blaster 3, has 100 to 1 ratio and produces 45,000 with 12volt stock supply , use half the MSD GM adaptor harness so you don't have to cut anything and slide on terminal adaptors to the coil. When I finish my setup I will post pics.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,676
Likes: 0
From: Fort Belvoir, VA USA
Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.4L
Transmission: 4l60e
Again, plugs are VERY conterversal, try what you want, and if you like it, stick with it. In my 60* Article in my sig, I go into great detail about finding the right plug for your application. Same info in both the ignition and tune-up section. I will finish the guide one day, I swear!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: North Providence, Rhode Island
Car: 1985 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V-6
Transmission: TH-700R4
ok...so this upgrade would definitely be worth spending a little money...i will also do the timing chain in the spring when it is warmer out...i have more time...and i have my other car on the road hopefully (1984 Lincoln Mark 7 302 TBI)...but i will probably be able to order the ignition parts by christmas time after the car gets painted...the only thing now is deciding which coil to buy...should i go with a direct fit and mount it away from the exhaust manifold...or put another kind in there...i'm mostly looking at the wiring aspect because i hate wiring stuff and try to stay away from it as much as possible...so some more suggestions would be helpful...thanx
Originally posted by Ryan_Alswede
Autolite plugs suck in camaros, nothing like the rapid fire AC Delco pulgs.
Autolite plugs suck in camaros, nothing like the rapid fire AC Delco pulgs.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
JP, I have a direct replacement fit accell coils in 2 of my rides, and I fell like they were worth the money, esp if you dont like re-wiring crap. I belive holly or hypertech??? are rated higher voltage then the accell, but also cost more. Do a little bit of research on your own, and read the specs. Esp since you wont be ordering tell x-mas. I belive their are MSD, ACCELL, HOLLY, HYPERTECH, MALLORY coils avalible for direct replacement. Read, see what your willing to pay for what your getting.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
From: Garland, TX, USA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS & 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1 L v6 & 305 (5.0L) v8
Transmission: 4L60 Auto
When you buy a coil you look at winding ratio. The GM blaster and other direct bolt ons only have 70 to 1 ratio and they cost more then the MSD Blaster 3 which has 100 to 1. If I remember right the GM blaster is $38.95 and the Blaster 3 is only $31.95.
I'm waiting on parts right now but when I finish my set up I will have not cut anything. I will only had to have drilled one hole in the bracket next to the old coil, and plug in the GM adaptor.
I'm waiting on parts right now but when I finish my set up I will have not cut anything. I will only had to have drilled one hole in the bracket next to the old coil, and plug in the GM adaptor.
I run
rebuilt distributor (by myself)
AC Modular
Accel 8.8 wires
Accel direct replacment coil, remote mount (upside down mounting)
Borg Warner Brass tipped cap & rotor
Bosch Platinum for the 3.4 (takes different plug!)
Performs exceptional!
rebuilt distributor (by myself)
AC Modular
Accel 8.8 wires
Accel direct replacment coil, remote mount (upside down mounting)
Borg Warner Brass tipped cap & rotor
Bosch Platinum for the 3.4 (takes different plug!)
Performs exceptional!
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