anyone who knows tonz about these motors or can give me any help at all tell me what stuff to buy to make the baddest 3.1 v6 ever. it has to be naturally asperated! thanxs a ton guys!!!

 

Okay I am sure someone will say swap in a 3.4.... But if you want a 3.1 then:

Crane 2030 Cam
Comp Cam 1.52 Roller Tip Rockers
Coyles Double Roller Chain

Gasket Match the heads
3 angle valve job
Shave 1000th of the heads to raise the compression slightly

Bore the block out .40

MSD Coil
MSD 6A Box
MSD Wires
Stock Plugs
Rebuild the distributor


90HP Shot of NOS
Posi with 3.73

 

Doing the typical stuff like porting, cam swap, more compression, headers and cat-back exhaust, cold air intake, better ignition/wires/plugs would be the best answer for a n/a motor. If you want the absolute best bang for the buck, put about a 75 or 80 HP shot of nitrous on it. I have this on mine and it has worked really well. It is a lot of fun, too. I understand that a lot of people don't want to do that, and if you don't, well that's ok. It's just that on a street driven 3.1 liter, doing all that stuff will probably gain you about 50 or 60 HP, but will cost you at least 1500 dollars if you do everything yourself. The nitrous kit is about 500 bucks, and the engine still looks and drives 100% stock, except when you hit the juice.

Good luck with your project!

 

Will the small shot of nitrous harm the internals at all though? I was looking into adding a small shot onto my motor that has 60,000 miles on it. I have the 3.1 andwould love to hop it up as well untill i get the ls1 quite a fe years from now.

 

is it gonna be street driven or just track??
Braink comments +
Remove/bypass ac pump and power steering.
Headers
shortest exahust system your state allows
remove smog pump
add power chip or burn your own.
Advance timing abit (chip should do that though)
If you got the cash, find/make a oversized tb and upper plennium, make it work, and you would be the first.

 

[QUOTE]Will the small shot of nitrous harm the internals at all though?

No, If the system is set up correctly, it will not. My car had about 65K miles on it when I put the system on back in 1996. I now have 166K miles on the same engine, with no internal mods or repairs. The only thing I have ever done to the engine is change the oil pan (darn rock) and put plugs,cap and rotor on there. I used a kit from a 1986-1993 Mustang 5.0 liter. Right now, Summit has a non adjustable kit for this application for $469.95. It is set for 75 HP, which is what I have my adjustable kit set for anyway.

Don't expect that this is going to make your car into a real street runner, however, it will shave a couple of seconds off of your 1/4 mile times.

 

Thanks man, Ill definitly look into it. Im just looking for something to shave a few seconds off here n there. Im running 16.5 now. I have an intake, exhaust, plugs, cap,and rotor i just did. My buddy has a setup im probably going to buy off him for it and put in the 75 shot nozzels. What do you figure your running in the quarter with it right now.

 

75 HP of Nos should bring you down to 15.03 with your mods.. Open up your upper and lower plenum and you might see 15 flat...

 

Take a look at nixon1's "Oops I did it again" board. It's a RamAir kit for a 3.1L. You can talk to him and try to fashion your own. Personally I want to help him make it professional looking (you know...replace tiewraps and duct tape with welds, rubber seals, ect.) and try to sell kits over the net...

 

guys guys guys it has to be naturally asperated and i am talking everything u can do to these motors
like porting everything and bringing the pistons comp to 10.5 and stuff like that!
btu thatnxs for all ur info!!!!

 

i watched a 2.8 V6 Camaro run 13.80s all night long


(150 shot helped him out either way that damn thing was still movin i had a 85 2.8 V6 them little 6 bangers aint no joke)

 

My guess is that I'm running about a 15.4 to 15.5 in the quarter. I don't know because I never have taken it to the track. There isn't a quarter mile track within 120 miles of here, either. There are several 1/8 mile tracks, but I just never have taken the car and time trialed it. Other than the nitrous and some exhaust work, my car is 100% stock. You should be able to hit around 15 seconds with your mods and a good shot.

As far as the naturally aspirated engine goes, maybe you could take all your intake pieces and your heads and have them extrude honed. That would help breathing all the way around. It is kinda expensive, but it will enlarge all the ports and smooth everything out.

 

I want to hear results of the NOS system on the live steamer trains!

 

For a 2.8, basically a 3.1:

What about a custom grind cam. At one point, Joe and I were thinking about a Center of 112 with Duration 050 at 218/226 and Gross lift .470/.492. Thats basically a modified Crower 03043 Compu-pro/performance level 4. Joe wanted a higher duration #.

Then add 19lb injectors.

What do you think this would do?

 

require a custom eprom..

 

There was a guy who was dicussing this piggyback computer that he would be able to adjust fuel curves with. The computer would also adjust timeing. Would this do the trick?

 

Yeah, the nitrous really helps kick up the steam pressure on the train.... NOT! I am supposed to go to a train meet this weekend, if hurricane Isidore doesn't rain us out.

Man, a 150 shot on a 60* V-6 would really kick it. You are more than doubling the engine output! He had to have had some serious internals in that thing for it to survive more than a few passes.

 

ok my mods and a 75hp shot ..
how much will i gain in the 1/4??

ohh BTW the piggyback system..u can build one
urself if u understand Analog digital converters..and
some basic microcontrollers...

all its doing is basically changing some of
the sensor info...(for instead of just pluggin a resistor
in the Intake air temp...u would read it and then
read other readings from the car and adjust the
value accordingly..)

im done some basic work on that subject..
but cars ECM doesnt like it at all...(or maybe
im not doing it right...) i used a ATMEL AT90S2313(Microcontroller)
with a MAX186 A/D converter to read some
of the values...it reads pretty good ..but i dont knw
how exactly to change it...

now im thinking burning proms is a better idea
than piggyback computers. (though its still very possible
if u can get it right)\

most of the APEXi controllers (like the SAFC)
do exactly what i said (some even adjust VTEC)
and they have a flashy display to put things in

anything over a 204-214 duration is defnitely
gonna need CUSTOM PROM ...to get it running right
im having problems with the 19lbs injectors...

 

i found a place that sells a bigger cam then crane
its called PAW(performance automotive warehouse)
they also sell whole rebuild kits for the v6
if u have a car magazine like super chevy ther always advertising in ther u can see them.

also iv herd that putting 2.8 heads on a 3.1 will raise the compresion is this true?

 

and what is this corvete servo some of u put on yur cars what does it do?

 

Prom burning is not out of the question. This gentleman is just going to be doing a group of 2.8s with the piggy back system. He has primary tuned other engines, but wants to branch out to 2.8 engines. So far he has tuned a few and had success. So we will prob be part of a test market to see what he can do. Worst case the sys is totally transferable to a V8 in the future.

 

Shaving any 60* head raises compression.
ANY 60* head.
PAW is right around the corner from where I live.
Phone them for free.
Ask them how's the smoke from the forest fire?
Ask them if it's really about 90*+ today out there?
They're alright...
There are other options where to purchase stuff, tho, too.
Shipping can be expensive.

 

Crower had some pretty impressive stuff. Some of it was way on the extreme:
108 Center
Duration 050: 226/234
lift: .470/.492

we have a local who just said they could do
112 center
Dur 223/228
lift .470/.483

No more cores though and they are discoing their 2.8 line.

 

ok my mods and a 75hp shot ..
how much will i gain in the 1/4??

I would guess that you would be about a second quicker in the quarter, which would put you in the high 14's somewhere. That's moving pretty good for a 2.8 liter engine in a 3300 pound car.

 

I talked to the prev owener of my show truck, he use to race it. He claims he has never had engine apart, just bolt on stuff, with a 125 shot nos, best her ran was 13.30 with it. I was like . Its also 5 speed. So I guess a 2.8 will hold a good shot of nos.

 

it makes the 1-2 shift much harder (its a stock part on most 'vettes hence thee name..)

do a search in the tranny board itll give u more info...

its something everyone does when they put a shift kit in ..as the resultys are very good...

 

i heard that the b&m shift kits werent any good for a 700r4
but hats what i heard i dont know if its true

 

well if you have the 6 cylinder you have the 200 4r transmission. The shift kits in thease usually work well, after all racgin grand nationals use them with shift kits.

 

ive had the B&M in for a year no problems at all...
ive heard both sides of the story too...

the transgo kit has more parts...
but i think B&M knows how to make kits too
they have been in business for long

 

The only 6 cylinder F-body that had the 200-4R trans was the TTA. Earlier models (82-83) had a 3-speed 200C trans. All other autos were 700R4s.