Well, my engine is seamingly running fine. It idles smooth.. drives smooth, the transmission seams to be ok,oil presssure and level are both fine.

The light comes on about 10 minutes of criving no matter what. Whether I'll be sitting there ilde or accelerating it seams to come on.

Since I don't haev a reader, I took it to a shop to get it read and then guy said he could not get the light to come on. So I'm not understanding my car at this point.

Any suggestions.. or a way to maually reset the cpu?

-Type

 

There's a way you can read the codes yourself..either go out and buy a $30 code scanner, or pull a paperclip from your cabinet. If you use the clip to connect 2 of the ports in the ALDL diagnostic port thing, it'll throw the computer into diagnostic mode and spit you out a code. I don't know which two ports, I've forgotten, but I'm sure plenty of other people here do. To reset the computer, you can either pull a fuse, unhook a clip, or unhook the negative terminal on the battery. If you still have the car's owner manual, find the fuse box diagram and find the ECM fuse... Now my code scanner book (yes, I was dumb enough to buy a scanner) says to do a long and complex series of steps..but I say, just unplug the fuse for 30 seconds. As for the 2nd option, I haven't found the clip the thing refers to in my car..I don't know if anyone else has it but apparently, I don't. Third, disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for 30 seconds. But watch out, this will reset your radio presets and everything. This also not only clears the SES codes but clears the computer COMPLETELY. (Pulling the fuse should have the same effect with the comp too.) This means the computer has to "re-learn" how to operate the car. The first time you start it after this, it will probably die out and reek heavily of rich exhaust. Mine does anyways..but it runs fine the second start. It may take a while to re-learn, so your car may run funny for a while..it all depends on how it runs compared to how it's SUPPOSED to run. When I get out of school and get home, I'll see if I can't dig up my manual so I can tell you the proper pins to connect.

 

thanks man, that would help alot.

I just hope the worse is over for the time being. I just replaced gaskets with the intake manifold.. had an uber oil leak.. 3-4 table spoons in just five minutes.. it was a constant drip. Cause the car to run rather shoddy. Stalled and had a very rough idle.

Also, when I hook up the paper clip.. do I use a light bulb of some sort, or is there something else that blinks on my car to signal what number it is?

 

You put the paper clip into the two upper right hand ports of the diagnostic connector. Then turn the key to the "on" position (but don't start the car), the check engine light will then blink.

 

much thanks

 

yep, it will repeate the code 3 times, then off to the new one. It should always spit out code 12 first, then the next. Light will blink like 3 times, quick pause, then 4 times meaning code 34, then long pause.

 

Yeah....then all you gotta do is look up online or tell us what code # you got. Like Dale said too, it should always give you 12...don't trust it if it doesn't cause it isnt working right. This diagnostic system is the best damn thing, I swear. If only we got the OBD 2 system! That thing is great...if you're knocking, missing, or an injector is misfiring or anything, it won't only tell you that, it'll tell you the exact cylinder it's happening in! The thing is genius...

 

i put it on the main page.. by accident

silly me..

Posted:
FGR Vacuum Control (EGR) Code: 32

This is no good is it?

Well, any trouble code is no good I guess, but what is it trying to tell me then?

 

Hey, mine did that saturday. I got to replace that 180 bux part. See if you can get a used one from a junk yard if you don't have the cash, or pay that much for it.


Makes it run alot better though.

 

well.. i fixed the problem. The guy that was under my hood last forgot to connect the main ingredient between my endgine and the EGR iself and I had to reconnect it.. the light has officaially stayed off.. and I am wonderfully relieved. Thank you for your help

 

Thats good news... EGR's are expensive..especially the digital ones. The vacuum EGR's aren't so bad but they're harder to replace. I'm waiting for mine to go out...they seem to be a blow up after 100-thousand item for F-Bodies from what I hear, along with the MAF's and such.

 

Mine lasted tell 165k , then it desided to crack and pop a bolt out

O well, fixed now, and getting better mpg.

 

My vac EGR wasn't that hard to replace, I expected the bolts to be frozen in there. Turned out they were "only" tight.. I expected rust, and snapped bolts, and etc. But I really recommend getting the GM vacuum EGR valve, from a dealer, because the "universal" one I first got from Pep Boys had two problems. 1, the underside of the valve was closed, which meant I would never be able to test the EGR valve by feeling the diapragm from underneath... 2, the vac line was pointing the opposite way, which would've meant butchering my line and running a rubber hose. No way.