Anyone know where I can get parts for the hatch pull down motors? I couldn't find a SINGLE ONE in the junkyard, and this is really bumming me out!

Anywhere to get any new parts?

 

look up Lon Salgren with topdownsolutions
he goes by the LONSAL on this board
or email him
topdownsolutions@yahoo.com
i'm sure he will have what you need



good luck!

 

Yes, TDS has alot of parts, and are good quility, but they are a bit expensive. Very nice to deal with also. I do recommend.

 

HEY! I think I saw one in a junkyard around here! I won't be able to get out there until Saturday. You want me to pick it up for you???

 

Sure! That'd be great, see what they'll let you have it for...

I checked out Hawks Third Gen parts, and they've got a lot of the parts I'll need too - as well as an aftermarket motor!

 

Just wondering, is there anyway to get rid of the pull down part of the hatch because mine's been broken for forever and it doesn't get cold enough here to shatter the glass even in the dead of winter. Sometimes I wonder what GM engineers were smoking when they designed stuff like that pulldown and the headlight motors. Oh well, that's why I'm gonna major in mechanical engineering.

David

 

I believe that the rear deck pulldown is so that you don't have to slam the several hundred pound glass panel down... Keep it lubricated, and it should last forever...

On another note: if you leave your hatchback open, there is a relay in the trunk area that remains energized while the pulldown is in the 'up' position. It gets real hot, and will kill your battery in about a weeks' time... It took me darn near forever to track down why my battery was draining on a regular basis. When I'm not driving the car, I unlock the t-tops, crack the windows, and open the rear lid to keep the seals from compressing.

Doward: If I get the chance, I will head up to the boneyard, and see what they want for it. What year is your car?

 

'88... I think mine is an '88-'91 style. '92 is all their own - and go figure, I pulled one out of a wrecked 25th anniversary here!

 

As of right now, my pulldown is completely dead, I think the motor is also dead and it seems to be jammed in the down position. It's been like this since before we got the car and it drained two batteries at the dealer before they found out what it was. I guess I'll have to live with it because I think TDS doesn't carry the version of the pulldown in my bird.
David

 

On mine the previous owner had the pull down track brazed together and the motor removed . It works fine just like a regular hatchback. you just have to make sure you braze it in the right position.

 

you've got mail!!!!!!

 

Sure you can get rid of it. Then you'll be back to multiple slamming to get it to latch and won't have the proper pressure against the rear hatch seal. An easier solution is to get the parts to repair them. I can recommend a fellow F-Body enthusiest (degreed Mechanical Engineer that has worked for many years as a Mechanical Engineer and Mfg. Engineer). He has already figured out how to make the parts that GM refuses to sell (aftermarket nylon guides and reinforced motor housings for the hatch pull-down units and Delrin bushings for the headlight units).

OK, (I'm done talking about myself in the third person). As others have already mentioned, I (meaning Top-Down Solutions) has the parts in stock for these problems you are experiencing.

You may be right about parts being unavailable for your hatch pull-down unit. 1991 the design changed mid-year. If yours has a plastic frame I can't help. Sorry.

Weak hatch struts are the main cause of failures of the hatch pull-down units. Dump the GM struts and get a pair of after-market ones with a lifetime warranty. E-mail me at: topdownsolutions@yahoo.com for a Price List.

Best wishes with the goal of becoming a Mechanical Engineer.

Just a FYI, in 34 units I disassebled for parts to rebuild these units I tossed only ONE motor. I discarded it not because it stopped working, but because the contact terminals that the reversind switch attaches to had bent. Motors rarely fail. But if you've been nursing a unit along with broken parts and the resulting poor alignment you've been putting a lot of stress on the motor. I also stock these aftermarket motors. The unit is superior in construction to the older one it replaced. It has a bronze hushing that supports the end of the worm drive of the motor. This will keep the worm drive in contact with the gear nut better than the prior design. I take the extra step of reinforcing the motor housings of these as well with 4 pieces of aluminum and epoxy.

The relay shouldn't remain energized. I've had the trunk open on my RS 'vert for weeks at a time with no problems. I did install a switch from an older model so I could turn off the rear cargo light. Maybe your relay is bad. I stock new relays that have a 1-year warrranty.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

ok, so how does a guy like me get ahold of you for prices?

Also, I need a new motor... cause mine's gone! The plastic housing is broken, and I figured hey, might as well rebuild it!

 

I just e-mailed you my Price List for hatch repair parts.

Lon

 

WHOOPS - that was my old email address! Can you resend it to my new one? Doward_@hotmail.com

 

Is it possible that there is a wiring difference between my car and your convertible? I have a very good understanding of electronics and relay logic, and there is no doubt that a relay down below the pulldown is energized while the lid is up.

Doward: I went an' checked out the junkyard... The one they had was full of water and didn't look too appealing. I forgot to bring along my booster pack to test it with, so I couldn't determine if it was worth pulling. We just bought a house, and are moving soon, so my trips to the 'yard will be limited for a while, and winter is here, so it's friggin' cold out... But I will keep an eye open whenever I get out there...

 

Thanks man, I'd appreciate that. All the boneyards around here seem to be picked clean!