Well i just wanted to know.
i would guess i'm in the mid 16s or something.
but i really wanna know everyone elses progress.

 

I'm doing a few mods to my car (shift kit, remade cold air intake, exhaust and HEADERS!) and around the 3rd week of Nov. I'm going to run my car. The only track we have around here is 1/8 of a mile so that will be all I can tell you though.

I can't freakin wait!

 

3.1L auto, intake and exhaust, perfectly in tune
i ran a 17.1 with so much wheel spin it wasnt funny, i spun through the first 1/8 of a mile.
no fun....maybe this sunday will be different

afew years ago TomP's 2.8 auto ran 16.5-something i think.

 

well good for you
i've been dying myself
i'm going to moroso down here by miami
not yet though
i'll go next year
after i tossed in the headers, flowmasters, drag radials. at least those
i also want 19lb fuel injectors, MSD 6 or 6a, and a bigger throttle body

yea submit your 1/8
thats better than nothing

 

yea i need to get the drag radials to lower the amount of wheel spin i have.
i can burn out like no other

i mean roughly i have about 160-200 horses from the crank
i'd say somewhere in the middle

so hopefully i do 16s already

 

What's your 60' times though? With a 200,000 mile car before the timing chain replacement I was cutting 2.30's on street tires and I can launch with no spin. If anything I get a VERY small chirp. Learning to launch is the key.

 

oh i've learned to launch well enough that i stuck with a 300 ZX for a long time, it took about 3rd gear
its my oversized back tires
i got them for look
and now realize that their large size causes me to spin out more
so if i'm at a stop, and i just pedal it, i peel
if i power brake, i spin incredibally
i just basically learned to make the best out of a bad situation.
the only way i don't spin
is if i don't pedal it and i pedal it after the launch
but that didn't work to well so i'll stick with power braking to 1500 - 2000 Rpms which works fine until i get way better tires

 

a 3.4L should put you in the 16's easily, but i do wonder...where'd u get the dual exhaust ? and is it custom. A dual exhaust setup would require some splicing of sensor wires for the computer to compensate, and the only time i see it done is on non-cc'd cars for racing, and those don't run tailpipes after the mufflers because of clearence issues.

 

doing a burnout with only radial tiars will hurt your times, and your car...heh...dont deflate the tires any either, just use round 36 PSI. and if you have an auto put it in overdrive, the sooner that converter locks up, the better. and i dont jam the gas, it will only hurt your times in an auto...i put it about 3.4 of the way down, to where the tranny doesnt skip, like it does if you jam it.
60' time is like 2.2-something once again, after spinning for 60 feet.
i think first run a had a 1.8? i dont remember to well.


this was with backseat and spare tire out and no neons or subs or any of that crap

i see your getting drag radials...sigguestion...
buy new rims, put some good radial tires on the front, i have SS20's by firestone, and put them on 2 of the new rims... then put your regular tires on the back two (new) rims....buy some snow tires and put them on a pair of the old ones, and some DOT slicks and put it on the second pair....thats my plan, and by the looks of it, i wont have to buy tires for a very, very long time. i put 3K mi. on the winter tires a year, and 9K on the summer tires, and the slicks im gettin ill only use driving to the track, at the track, and driving home from the track. just an idea

 

How big are your back tires? I have P275/60r15 BFG Radial T/a's in the back, on 15x8" rims, and the only way I can peel out is if I try to. Never lost traction on a launch. You're going around the bleach box, right?

Yeah, I ran a 16.87 back in '96, with no mods except for a cat-back, and the motor was crying for a tuneup- the trans blew a month later. Last time I ran, with all the mods, I pulled a 17.1 with a torque convertor lockup switch. My only guess is that the motor's pretty tired (over 200,000 miles) as compared to back in '96.

 

I want to run mine soon, I just haven't been able to get out. That and it needs to be tuned up badly before I run it...it's been acting very strange lately, but one again, I haven't had the time to put her in my dad's garage and throw parts at it. I'd be curious to see what I can do...I've got exhaust, intake, and a torque converter lockup switch like what Tom has.. That sucker comes in handy, but I'd still rather have COMPLETE manual control over the TCC, rather than only the Auto or Lock option.. Btw, dragging the car in Overdrive, 92? Never heard of that one.. I'm going to do the 1>2>Drive method myself because of my funky tranny. 1 and 2 raises the pressure in the transmission and forces a SLIGHTLY quicker shift...although it's still pretty bad. 1st to 2nd is liveable..I can suck it up and deal with it. But last time I full out floored it in 2, for me to force-shift the car into 3rd, I had to click it into Drive, COMPLETELY release the gas pedal for like a full second, and slowly press down again until at about halfway down THEN it hit 3rd... That's gonna kill me right there. Oh, not to mention both my rear tires are COMPLETELY bald, and I have no working tachometer as a reference point to launch at specific rpms. I'm screwed! Can you say, 17.9?

 

Oversized tires will not make you spin easier.

I'm calling BULL**** on the guy who said he pulled a 1.8

You do want to put the gas at WOT, not 3/4 of the way down. Whoever said that is a moron.

 

Oversize tires should be HARDER to spin....more rotational mass and a bunch of other tech crap that I understand just can't explain..

 

well then i dun know why i spin out too much
none the less i plan on fixing that end of the deal hopefully
i'll tell ya the size of the tires in a bit

 

Well that and he means oversized in one of two ways or both.

Larger tire diameter=lowered effective rear ratio

Larger tire width=more surface contact with the pavement, therefore more friction.

 

THAT'S what I was thinking about..how the tire size simulates lowering the rear end gear ratio..lowered as in, lowered numerically (as in 3.73 to 3.42) , not ratio-wise, right?

 

i said that, im no moron, try jammin it everywhere, just wait till that tranny mount snaps.
why isnt this on the racing board?

BTW, just looked at the time slip, my avg is 2.3 in my car, i got it confused with grandpas car....sorry G0D.
oh, g0d, something else, i said these are just some sigguestions, i also stated that I place it at 3/4 of the way down...
btw, tomP...how do you wire one of those switches?

 

my 1992 bird went 16.0 with a ton of mods.

 

Yeah, picture the change in gear ratios as two circles that share the same diameter. Shrink one circle (by getting smaller tires). Now, draw a circle between those two- it'd be the effective gear ratio.

I had a formula page bookmarked when I used Netscape, but I don't feel like searching the hard drive for it so here's the actual formula:

(stock tire height / new tire height) x rear gear ratio

If you don't know how to calculate tire height, I posted it here: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=138958

My stock tires were 215/65r15, 26.18 inches tall. Current tires are P275/60r15, 28.2 inches tall. Gear ratio is 3.42. Leaves me with an effective gear ratio of 3.18. Not too hot, eh?

But say I went to a tiny little P225/50r15, if such a tire exists. That tire's got a height of 24 inches. Plugged into the effective gear formula, that gives an effective rear gear of 3.73! Now, altho the tire's wider, it's shorter, so not only has my effective gear ratio been lowered, but now, I'm running on a smaller footprint.

The footprint of the tire is determined by tire height as well as tire width. Ever see a pro drag car with short & wide tires? Nope? Well, the footprint is why. Next time you've got a tire off the car, pick it up in the air, and place the tire in some soft sand- just as if the tire was bolted to the car. Lift the tire straight off the sand, and you'll see the footprint... which will appear like a rectangle. And this is also where tire pressure comes in to play. If you've got your tires way overinflated, you reduce your footprint.

 

Tranny mounts snap, yes...I've went through 4 in the past 2 years, but they're cheap and it's worth the extra pickup. I don't understand how you plan on RACING without giving it the most gas.

And as to how you can confuse a 1.8 with a 2.3.....??????

 

wheras a slight decrease in pressure will increase your footprint...

Also, running bigger tires does not make you spin easier. Which would you spin out in, a 28" tire, or a 14" gokart tire?

I've got a LOT more to do, before I DARE peek my face out at a track....

 

I totally agree. It's not like most of us have insane traction problems . If you have regular street tires, you dont' need to wet them anyway.

 

why dont you all try giving it full gas, then try giving it gas bout 3/4 of the way down, remember its merely a sigguestion.
well, regulars at englishtown might remember a red Benz AMG that ran high 13's to low 14's, a driver by the name of Tilden. that is my grandfather. he has let me race his car. i got out the collection of timeslips, and looked at the dates and got that dates confused....understandable?

 

ran a 15.9

w/o
1. porting and polsihing
2. 19lb injectors...


maybe i should use the lockup switch next time
at the track...i was always scared of keeping it
on....

 

89...I gave the car gas with the lockup switch thrown.. Doesn't SOUND like it's doing too much TC damage...it's still hard on the thing but I don't hear scraping noises or anything..I just wouldn't use it very often.. It just locks the car straightaway once you hit 2nd gear..although mine has a delay in locking it..takes a second or two....car bogs down when it locks but it's supposed to take a bit off your ET... I assume because the torque converter is more efficient when it's locked and multiplies engine torque a little more... Ohh just remember to shut it off. I flip my switch around 40 mph or so to keep the TCC from engaging and disengaging because mine SUCKS....so one time I decelerated and took a turn and forgot to throw the switch..bam, TC locks in 2nd gear exiting the turn and I hear this HORRIBLE grinding noise....