Whats the stock hp and torque numbers for a 3.4L? i have no idea where to find it.

 

160 horsepower
200+ ft lbs of torque..don't know the exact number

 

I believe it was 160/200, even...

 

Not too bad. Im gonna do a 3.4 conversion and I think i can get some pretty damn impressive numbers out of that little motor. BTW, it wont be a usual 2.8-3.4 conversion. Its gonna be a 2.8 block bored and stroked to 3.4L specs. I know it sounds like a bunch of bull****, but I can give you the company that sells this conversion engine. Im very conservatively estimating 210 hp and 230 ft/lbs of torque after I do all the mods I am thinking about. The car should have a tolerable amount of power then.

 

Is that even possible? Hmm..I suppose to...not sure though. I know a 3.1 is a stroked 2.8. And you can't bore either of the motors...well technically, you can overbore a 3.1 up to a 3.2 but that's a tad risky. It'd be cheaper I'm sure to find a low mileage 3.4

 

I know it sounds like a load of crap but they get it to work somehow. I was skeptical too but I talked to a couple of people that have bought the engine from that company and they are extremely satisfied. The cost isn't too bad, Im willing to do it since it'll be a helluva lot easier than a true 3.4 swap. In case you haven't noticed already, I am really lazy.

 

my birds 2.8 has simmilar numbers as the 3.4 mine has 174hp @5500 and 191tq @4000. those numbers are at the crank. i got those numbers from desk top dyno.

 

I've seen the web site w/those kits too. forget the name of the company, but if you can afford it, get forged internal for future fun (nitrous or super/turbo charging )

 

From 1995 dealer Literature
3.4
160hp @ 4600RPM
200Torque @3600RPM

Seriously,
Don't waste your money.
Go find the real thing
WHY
#1 WHEN it needs rebuilding you'll have meat to work with
#2 I bought a 50K mile motor for $900 intact complete & pushing 150 PSI compression each cylinder
My Firebird 3.4 engine was 175-200 PSI compression each cylinder ($800).
New intact complete long block GM issued 3.4 w/12,000 warranty is $1700.
Their price is to high & the stuff too fragile. Ya can't build a 2.8/3.1 into dead reliable daily driver 3.4.
It'll over heat so much from the thin casting walls & the stress of the stretched block.
PLUS your old heads don't have enough meat for the dual spring of the 3.4 heads.
Old heads run one weak spring.
Serious, go spend measly $6 & read the truth before you spend like $1500 (plus shipping!) for their "kit".

GM PERFORMANCE PARTS BOOK
ANY GM DEALER
$6.
Read the 60* V-6 section & see the truth & the engineering work of a GM BUILT 3.4, not theirs.
I know of those people. Read the truth & spend ya money time effort wisely.
I've done two swaps, both street legal, CA smog legal & I've couched about 35+ now. Probably closer 40. Another Swap Boogie Fan email sent to me last night
NONE have ever bought that kit. NO ONE. All got the real thing AND SO CAN YOU!
One guy, just had delivered his 3.4 from ebay auction with 71K miles on it!
Fair
Paid DELIVERED $910!
PS NO ASSEMBLY OR BREAK IN, just swap & GO!!
Honest, Spend $6, read the book & you will not be pissed at me for your effort.
It's GOOD STUFF Maynard!

 

First off, if no one has ever bought the engine, then why do they continue to sell it? Second, if i do a real 3.4 swap im confused as hell as to exactly what will swap from the old 2.8 onto the new 3.4. See if i got this right:
1. Use 3.4L flexplate (auto tranny)
2. Use 3.4L balancer
3. Use old 2.8L intake and tb
4. Use old 2.8L ignition
5. Use old 2.8L fuel rail
6. Use 3.4L injectors
7. Use 3.4L water pump
8. Use 3.4L exhaust manifolds
9. Use 2.8L starter
10. Use 3.4L oil pan and timing chain cover

Am i even close to right?????? Also, i have an 85 too. Do all the brackets mount right up to the new 3.4L engine?

 

BTW, the company doesn't sell it as a kit. They build the engine in their machine shop and test the block to make sure it'll hold up. Dont get me wrong, i respect all the knowledge you have helped bring to the board but you don't know what they have done to the block to make it so that it can be a reliable driver. Im awaiting their response on this specific topic. So far, they have been helpful and forthcoming.

 

5. Use 3.4L injectors in old 2.8L fuel rail
6. Use new 2.8 water pump
7. Use 3.4L exhaust manifolds (one less gasket to change & they mate right up to your current exhaust system)
8. Use 2.8L or if ya get it the 3.4 starter no diff
9. Use 2.8 oil pan and timing chain cover
Other parts
The plug in the 3.4 passenger side cylinder head must be removed to install your old car electric fan system set up sensor.
Have you read my 2.8 ->3.4 long block swap boogie thread yet?

I don't know these guys at all.
I've seen their ads on ebay, read it and so have others.


No one, here, on this 3rd gen board, has ever bought their kit or block or....


Spend the $6 at GM to see the proper solution.
Again somone just got his 71K 3.4 delivered (FRIDAY right Dale!) fully dressed long block for $910.
Ebay works.
Good luck with your choice.

 

are we talking about the same company?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Berlinetta

1. Use 3.4L flexplate (auto tranny) Correct
2. Use 3.4L balancer Either will work
3. Use old 2.8L intake and tb yes
4. Use old 2.8L ignition yes
5. Use old 2.8L fuel rail yes
6. Use 3.4L injectors yes
7. Use 3.4L water pump I'd get a new one
8. Use 3.4L exhaust manifolds Either will work
9. Use 2.8L starter Either will work
10. Use 3.4L oil pan and timing chain cover You need a cover with a timing mark. the 3.4 cover doesn't have one


BTW, Karl, there is a 3.4 at the Pick-Your-Part on Pendelton near Memory Lane. Just saw it today.....probably around $150 plus core.

EDIT: I forgot, I'm using the 3.4 oil pan. I removed the oil level sensor and just welded the hole up.

 

How can the 2.8L flexplate keep proper balance with the 3.4L crankshaft?

 

Crap, I got mixed up. You're right. You have to use the 3.4 flexplate. The 2.8 one won't work.

 

GREAT SCORE FOR SOMEONE ELSE!!

ANYBODY?
ANYBODY?

Did ya hear about "Ferris Bueller" Principal?
Caught with underage girl & had kiddie **** in his home place.
Now we know what that guy did with his Ferris Bueller movie money!

My swap days are over!
Next is the 1967 Camaro & the 1974 Corvette & the old 1972-1976 Honda Motorcycles. One of my three bikes, I'm gonna make a chopper!

Are you driving the Camaro as you are working on it?
Your customs are quite impressive. Swaps get to be fun this way.
Pomona December 8th!

 

It sucks, but it's my only car.

I figure I can get the T5 in on a Saturday and the 3.4 in on a Friday-Saturday.

BTW, I scored a lower shift boot at the yard. I've got a leather shift **** coming in the mail and I only need to buy 3 more things:
-PROM
-ATF
-Flywheel bolts
That's It!!!!!! Swap should be done by the end of the year!!!
The 3.4 on the other hand.....gimme another year.

 

A WHILE BACK
on ebay
was this company making 2.8's into 3.4
Even GM says that is not possible.
Read why in the GM Perf. Book.
The 3.4 mills are completly different everything of the 60* engine family.
Only part from the 2.8-3.1 MPFI days?
Valves, same size.
Rockers, same.
Valve covers, same.
Serious, I believe those are the only parts from the old 2.8-3.1 days.

 

use the 3.4 waterpump only only only only only if you use all the 3.4 accessories. 2.8/3.1 & 3.4 water pumps rotate opposite of each other.

I x-fered the block timimg marks over from the 2.8 to the 3.4 block, however, comma, I will have to time it carefully & use "bird crap" to mark the teeth so I can use it as a future refrence.

If the base manifold of the old engine doesn't have a cold start injector, I see no reason not to use the 3.4 base manifold.

as for the electric fan control, I got an aftermarket controler, as my attempt to remove the plug met w/disatrous results

hope I didnt confuse you even more

 

I thought the same thing...until I noticed that there is no vacuum port for the PCV valve on the back side. I have to get a junkyard intake now. Which intake did you use???

 

Way cool to read about the T-5 swap!
That's very impressive.
And you get to cheat doing at a GM facility!
Still thrilled on the 3.4!
It'll be done shortly!

 

Use the current car model year intake on the 3.4 block. Mates perfectly.
Isn't 1985-1992 intakes the same?
Different sensors you say?
Easy decision, I used my old 1985 MPFIset up.
Fit perfect.

 

you got me there

had to use 85 intake beacuse of cold start injector.

 

Have you heard of turning a 351 into a 430?

 

Ok i really did not read the thread, so if i repeat anything sorry.
I'm just going ahead to leave a little info.
160 horses
200 torque

Its not worth doing the 2.8 boring out to 3.4 thing
i read about it. i thought about it
its not worth it. it costs more money to do
and you are not going to get the same power out of it.
you are going to get less power. all you are most likely going to do is get torque.
Swap to 3.4

if your confuse its simple

you grab 2.8L block from under the manifold.
you put it 3.4L under the manifold
then you put back all you injectors and ignitions and intake set up back
its simple, its easy.

i have it done, its helluva worth it.
the only thing, i have to get these damn dual exhaust out of my car.
my dad thought it made power, but i tried to tell him.
yet he gave it to me anyway(he did not pay attention obviously)
i didn't complain because it was a gift(not really, i ended up paying for it anyway)

I found the 3.4L block for 350 bucks. i polished it perfect(not me, the polishing guy) and i fixed every little bug in my car.

once again, do not waste your time with the boring out 2.8L thing
one more thing. Something that company did not explain is that you can only bore out to a 3.1
a 3.1 can bore out to a 3.4, not 2.8 to 3.4, you can't skip it.
they trick you with what they say, to confuse you to get a 2.8 to 3.4
your only going to get 3.1 numbers(if even that)

Well hope that i was of some help.
sorry i did not read the thread

Take Care guys

 

The best they can do with a 2.8 block, is bore/stroke it to around 3.2 ish

Odds are, you send them your engine, they take your $1700, head to local boneyard and grab a 3.4 for $500, and swap everything for you.

 

If SuperSix motorsports can continue with the flow improvements they been getting so far on the 3.4 heads, then I'm realisticly looking at 220-240HP.

Here's my plan: HT3.4 crate motor- 160hp as it sits in a stock 2.8 s10 truck. I pull the heads and ship to supersix for port & polish work +1.8" intake valves and even higher lb springs and retainers. Then add my set of 1.6 alum rockers and fiero valve cover(Still need to get VC's). Put on some headers and a new y-pipe. Match port my intake manifold and plenium. Plenium needs to be welded and ported to larger opening to match to my 62mm throttle body. Add 19Lb injectorsand Holley fuel reg. Fine tune the computer to make it all work and there you go/ easily 220-240hp Its all in the heads!

edit
Oh yeah,This car already has a fully built Darrell Yound trans that willhold up to 600hp. And the suspension is Spohn products(Torque arm,LCA's,SFC's, RB's)in the rear. I just built the Iroc 10bolt with a new Auburn posi, bearings and seals, and stayed with 3.23 for more of a roadrace setup, The stock drum rear had 3.42's. Believe it or not the 3.23's have a better power range for normal driving. 3.42's were better across the intersection but that was about it.

 

ive seen this post a few times on here.. fact.. u cannot bore a 2.8/3.1 to a 3.4.. u have to bore them .12 over.. u can only safely go something like .08.. 2.8 - 3.1, now that fairly easy.. just geat a crank & connecting rods (basically stroker kit) from a 3.1/3.4..

2.8l (173ci) bore=3.50" (89mm) stroke=2.99" (76mm)
3.1l (191ci) bore=3.50" (89mm) stroke=3.31" (84mm)
3.4l (207ci) bore=3.62" (92mm) stroke=3.31" (84mm)
http://users.spec.net/home/emxjc/v6_60_history.html

and the company that makes the 2.8-3.4 stroker is ARI.. http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/gm2834stkr.html thats the link to the page.. they also sell 2.8-3.1 stroker kits..


-mike (loomdog)