Man the last few weeks its been really really cold and my car don't like starting. Never acted like this last winter.

Takes almost alll the battries juice to get it cranked over enough to get fuel pressure and prime my pump, then it seams to start and run fine so. Im thinking bad starter, if it was oil or friction it should not run very smooth till warm. But it does sound like its barley turning over and really having trouble getting it going. but once it get primed it fires right up as normal.

Was kinda crazy, it took all the batt juice to get started but once started, it idled better than it ever did. usualy I gotts keep them rpms up for a min so, other wise it will sit there n cycle from 1000-1500 rpm but it was smooth as silk.

It just couldnt get the job done today, its much warmer out but was like 7 all night. it only cranked twice and on the thrid try it pooped out. acted like the batt was dead, threw in a spare and it still didnt want to crank over.

I need to just park it but it so good on gas; if the snow aint too bad I rather drive it than the wagon.

$5 a week [5days] compared to $5 a day.

 

dont know if this helps but i had the same problem before i just changed my spark plags and it was fine.

 

yea, I did a tune up not that long ago but these GM cars can eat plugs for no reason.

It kinda suck as I dont really know whats broke or is wrong but it sure aint moving.

I hate to change the starter in the midle of winter but maybe when it get a tad warmer out it will work again.

 

had a similar problem with the getting it started deal and it turned out to be the fuel pump, it wasnt holding the pressure at the fuel rails like it is supposed to, probably why it takes so long to start and is ok when you start it a little later, the fuel slowly drains out of the rails back to the tank or something like that, and if it is have fun changing it especially in the cold, but I would check the rails and injectors etc for a small leak first before dropping the tank and replacing the pump, they arent expensive but a b***h to get done and a shop will charge you BUCKS for the labor, the guy that did mine said he checked the pressure at the rail, so maybe you could do that first to see if it holds or not.

 

nope fuel pump is ok, my prime relay was or still is fried, changed relay once but it was crispy critters. take 2-3 turns of the key everytime to build oil pressure and then the back up relay kick on the fuel pump.

But yea if I didnt need to crank and build oil pressure, I would be in good shape. would not need to crank it over so much.


I have really thought about bypassing that darn pump relay, or installing an inline pump just to prime the system at start up. Have the inline pump hooked to the starter side.

 

Why does the pump relay keep frying? You might want to check out my code 54 chart here https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=60722 to see if there's a short somewhere.

Everythign else aside, as far as starting, are the battery cables clean? Ground strap (back of passenger side head) okay? Battery (and spare battery) not 5 years old or older? Over-advanced timing will cause a starting problem... any way you can check the timing?

 

Check the condition and contact of your battery cables. My 86 had to be moved last night to put up the christmas lights. Darn negative cable kept working itself loose and made the starter crank slow if at all. I'll get an OEM cable at the yard tomorrow!!

 

It got almost 40 today and I think the starter is gone gone gone, something stinks down there. now with a fresh charge on the batt all she does is nothing turn the key, the gauges peg out and notihng, not even a click.

guess the solonide could be bad, and or the cables fried att he conection down there.


and Tom, that relay was and had been fired since I owned the car, Only after I realized that the car should not take 3 turns of the key I started looking around [6-8 months ago]. When I changed them the connectors were crispy critters [not the relay], like the connections got hot. So they were fried for a long time but it allways started so no one bothered I guess. but the new ones are still new and fine.

Im the third owner of the car, only changes I was told about was an engine and I know it had a new rear end of the car welded on, im sure from a wreck. [The bondo in the left door is falling out, looks like the original owner [a woman] rubed the door on one of them post at the drive through. A wave of dents down the drive door only.] You cant see it anywhere in the body or underneith, but they did skimp and didnt do the wheel well area right, when you take the plastic and carpet out of the back you can see the seam. but no where else.

Maybe it got a whole new body piece and they used the stock frame and lower wells???

Gotta take pics of that one day. but its only on the rear wheel wells, not the body or unibody stuff has weld seams.


only code I get is low voltage and its had that for 3 years, Im assuming it knows the pump relay is not working but the default oil one does.

I still have my old relays and right here, they look fine and might stil work, but the wire connectors that hooks to them was crispy critters. not broken or melte away, just real crispy.

 

GUMBY I JUST BLEW TONS OF CASH AND I HAD THE SAME SYMPTOMS. DON"T SPEND MONEY ON FUEL PUMPS OR WHATEVER ELSE. My ignitoon module quit sending pulse to the injectors. I replaced over $1000. in components before finding this out. I had the exact same problems!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thats what mine does now and we've pretty much decided it to be the ign. module or coil.

It used to take a couple of times to crank it at first.

Sometimes on hot days I'd have to let it sit 10 min. and try again.

Then we hooked up a remote starter and ran it inside the car and bypassed that problem, but now mine does the exact same thing as what yours is doing.

I'll give you my results when I get a little further along, good luck with your car.

 

Got some movation, pulled the starter, its a stinky sucker. definatly burnt, the wrong power supply for your calc smell, when you realize thats a 12vdc one not a 9v.

 

Part: 323-350
Catalog Name: AC DELCO REBUILT
Part Type Name: STARTER
Total Number of Vehicles: 102

BUICK (15)
CENTURY (6)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X

REGAL (1)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W

SKYHAWK (1)
1984 2.0L 121cid L4 F/I P

SKYLARK (7)
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL Z
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL Z
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X


CADILLAC (6)
CIMARRON (6)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.0L 121cid L4 F/I P
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1984 2.0L 121cid L4 F/I P


CHEVROLET (26)
BERETTA (2)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W

CAVALIER (5)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1984 2.0L 121cid L4 F/I P

CAVALIER Z24 (3)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W

CELEBRITY (9)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X

CITATION (1)
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X

CITATION II (4)
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X

CORSICA (2)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W


GMC (4)
VAN G1500 1/2 TON (2)
1971 307cid 5.0L V8 2 BBL H
1971 307cid 5.0L V8 2 BBL P

VAN G2500 3/4 TON (2)
1971 307cid 5.0L V8 2 BBL H
1971 307cid 5.0L V8 2 BBL P


OLDSMOBILE (21)
CUTLASS CIERA (6)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R

CUTLASS CIERA CRUISER (4)
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R

CUTLASS CRUISER (1)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W

CUTLASS SUPREME (1)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W

FIRENZA (4)
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1984 2.0L 121cid L4 F/I P

OMEGA (5)
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL Z
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL Z


PONTIAC (30)
2000 (1)
1984 2.0L 121cid L4 F/I P

6000 (11)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1988 3.1L 189cid V6 F/I T
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL Z
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL Z

6000 STE (4)
1988 3.1L 189cid V6 F/I T
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W

FIERO (8)
1988 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1987 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I 9
1987 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1986 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1986 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I 9
1985 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1985 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I 9
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R

GRAND PRIX (1)
1988 2.8L 173cid V6 F/I W

PHOENIX (5)
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X
1984 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL Z
1984 2.5L 151cid L4 F/I R
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL Z
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X

 

That list looks normal until you get in the middle and see

GMC (4)
VAN G1500 1/2 TON (2)
1971 307cid 5.0L V8 2 BBL H
1971 307cid 5.0L V8 2 BBL P

VAN G2500 3/4 TON (2)
1971 307cid 5.0L V8 2 BBL H
1971 307cid 5.0L V8 2 BBL P

---------

another neat one.

CITATION (1)
1983 2.8L 173cid V6 2 BBL X

anyone ever see one, look like a chevette but had X-11 on the sides and a a cowl induction like hood with v6 fuel injection on the sides. It didn't look bad.

I allways wanted an X-11, never see em for sale, just sitting.

I would still buy one if I found it cheap.