Ok guys, need major help, this thing has me confused big time!!!!

Car wont start when somewhat warm. Like drive into town, eat at McD's go to leave, wont start, will spin, but not start. Also now somewhat surges while driving. Got the stumble on acceleration gone.

Fuel pressure 44/45
FULLY rebuilt distributor
Gutted cat now
New wires
New IAC
Changed plugs
Swapped coils, thats not it
New EGR
New air filters
Cap/rotor good
New ICM
New pickup coil

WTF is wrong??

Reading my haynes book, says their is a "crank signal" that comes from the start to ECM and will cause problems on starting(6-4-22) or page 6-9, middle colum, down low.

But what would cause the surging while driving down road??

This car is about to **** me off

 

Hey, have you checked your fuel injectors? My car was having the same problem. I would drive a short distance, turn the car off and when I'd try to restart it, the engine would turn but it wouldn't fire up. My problem was that the fuel injectors were giving off too many amps and it was causing the computer over heat and shut off. I had had to replace 3 fuel injectors because they were giving off around 10 amps and my mechanic told me they are only suppossed to give off around 1. I hope this makes a little sense. I'm new to all of this but you're problem sounds very similar to mine. I hope I helped.

 

Yep, that's what happens when injectors short internally.

Say a normal injector has 6 ohms of resistance. Feed 12V through and the injector will only pull 2 amps.

Now take a shorted injector with only 1.2 ohms resistance. Feed 12V through and now it pulls 10 amps.

However, this condition won't cause an intermittent hot no start.
I'd check all wiring to the ignition module for damage first.........when the condition occurs CHECK FOR SPARK AND FUEL. Start with the basics.

 

When I had my problem, we thought it was just a fluke. I checked the spark and fuel, you know the basics. However, as weeks passed is happened more often and my car had a rougher idle and poor acceleration. And it was odd considering my car only has 51,000 miles on it and i just had a tune up a month ago. I'm looking at my records and comparing it to my records and what the mechanic wrote it's exactly what happened to me. I had trouble code #33 cleared. I don't know what that code meant and if it had anything do with my problem.

 

Code 33 is maf.

How do I go about checking injectors. Anyway w/o removing the upper intake??

 

could you have enough fuel pressure but not enough flow???

Course how do you do a flow test safely.

even if needed or not another set of injectors sent out for cleaning will make a car run better. butyou may need it, but its easier to send out a spare set.

 

Right gumby, I was wondering some of the same things, enough pressure, but low flow??


And I don't have any extra 15lb injectors. I have some 17lb from a 3.4l setting here, and some 19lbs from a un-metionalbe engine, but would still work.

Going out to swap starters, as I have a new starter at no cost to me to try and swap.