Hey guys,
I am sure u have seen me b*t*hing about this ICM before, but I want to make a list of all the possible reasons why my ICM is dying. My car runs for a week or so, then ZAP, ICM is dead. Here's what I've come up with so far, and I have put in my own Sony Head Unit if that helps :

The silicon-based grease is not applyed to the bottom of ICM?
Yes, I do apply it everytime I replace it.

The computer (aka "ECM") is zapping out my module?
No, I already replaced it, my ICM still dies.

My Sony Head Unit is killing my ICM?
Who knows, could it be interference is killing it?

My ignition coil or pickup coil is killing it?
This would be my next guess, as I have tried everything else, anybody wanna help?

I need my car to run, I want to fix it right this time, anybody have any ideas? I am not taking it to a diagnostic clinic because they are idiots, I already went there.


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I did some reading on this board. Have come up with a few things here, I will attempt to share.

If you have a aftermarket coil (accel msd ect) they tend to help blow ICM's

ICM and COIL need to match brand wise, dunno why this matters, read that and it helped for someone.

AcDELCO is OEM equipment, and is better then the "wells" or el-cheapos, which are you getting??

These are known for flat going bad, one guy went thru 4 coils in less then a month, one lasted less then 24hrs for him.

Are you sure its the ICM thats bad and not another problem that keeps re-accuring??

 

I don't know if I'd go blaming an aftermarket coil so fast. I ran my Accel remote HEI supercoil since '97, and the module only died once, in '99. I rebuilt the distributor then, and kept the Accel coil until a year or so ago, when I put the full-blown MSD setup on (MSD 6AL with Blaster SS coil).

Do you get these igntion modules tested? Ever try the wiggle test, where you wiggle the connectors back there? I wonder if you've got an intermittant wire on one of the module connectors. Also, seems like you're saying that you're still using the original pick-up coil? Might want to change it anyway, it's only $12, but you will have to remove the distributor to get at it.

What color is the grease you're using? Is it the white stuff? It's gotta go between the module and the base plate, so is your base plate maybe warped or bent, and the top of the distributor base plate is not making good contact with the bottom of the module?

I doubt the Sony's killing the module. Oh, hey, wait.... do you leave your key "on" for long periods of time while playing your radio? If you leave the key "on" (right before crank), but with the engine off, the module can overheat. I also wonder if maybe you have some kind of short in your ignition switch that's keeping the module energized. It's easy to check; the pink/black wire on the ignition coil's gray connector is how the whole HEI system gets it's power (ignition coil, spark module, pick up coil, etc). With your ignition key off, pull the gray connector off, and test the gray connector's pink/black wire with a voltmeter to ground; you should see 0 volts; if you see 12 volts, that module is getting power even tho your ignition switch is turned off.

 

Tom, I was just stating what I had read of this site.

He is more then free to search and read just like I did. Just informing him of what I read.

 

Oh, hey, I know, I wasn't saying you're wrong, it's definately worth checking out, especially since he might've wired an aftermarket coil backwards (by accident), or something goofy like that. I rely a lot on my experiences (wiggle test, I got stranded on the side of the road, and that got me home!), which might not always be the 100% truth... i.e., if it didn't happen to my setup, it can't happen to anyone's, that's not really a tautology.

Just like KED85; he had the same coil I did, the Accel computerized remote HEI supercoil, and he had problems with it. I swore up and down that it couldn't be the coil, I had mine for so long, blah blah blah- I believe he bought another coil, and the problem went away. So my answer probably should've been "I've had that coil for years, maybe you got a bad one, or something melted inside."

 

hmm, you guys sound like u know whats goin on. I'll try the wiggle test tomorrow, as for the power, well that was the first thing i checked when I didn't know why my car wouldn't start (after the first one blew). That had no power when ignition was off, but it did when it was on. This problem just happened out of the blue, right after I installed my new head unit. My cousin ripped my power wire for my amp out of the fender and panels in the car, maybe it caught on an ignition wire or something (highly doubtful). If this car is just going to spit problems at random maybe I should seriously get rid of it. Anywho, I am going to buy a new ignition coil tomorrow and try my luck with it, as well as a replacement ICM (both will be Borg Warner products, purchased from Pep Boys) and I'll see what goes on, I dont want to take the distributor out myself, *** knows what troubles I'll stir up lol.

 

By the way, u said you "doubt" the sony's killing the module, I want to know if there no chance in H E L L that its doing it, because the first one blew after I rigged it up, like 12 hours later. And, u did say the ignition coil could have killed it, right?(just as well a chance as the pickup coil) I have a bone stock setup with acception of these new ICM's, so that tells you how much I messed with my car. Thanks again, I'll stop babbling.

 

I would agree with tom that if you are cranking your stereo while parked somewhere with the key ingnition in the run position but the motor not running you will overheat your module fast and kill it. I have heard from someone I greatly repect (Has owned his own automotive repair facility for over 35 yrs and has competitively drag raced for years) that the Borg Warner modules ARE NOT as good as the Delco unit either.

 

Okay thanks, hmmm wut to do, what to do....

 

AFGT
BRINGS UP A VERY VERY GOOD POINT.
My last ICM was a Borg Warner.
BUT I THINK THE REAL PROBLEM IS THAT-
You "tested" the stereo in the "ignition" key position?
See tip above & it'll do the same to OLD STYLE POINTS (Like fuse them together!).
My one that just died was a BW
I pulled out the other AC Delco one & had it tested before I installed it.
It was good.
BUT WHAT I DISCOVERED (see my thread)
The "WHITE GREASE" given in packaging MAY BE COMPLETLY WORTHLESS!
I was told & given the PERMATEX DIELECTRIC CLEAR THICK GOOEY GREASE.
Cleaned Distb. base of the white stuff, LAID ON THICK FILM OF THE PERMATEX STUFF, car ignited instantly!

TRY USING THE PERMATEX DIELECTRIC GREASE INSTEAD.
FYI
I was told by this independent parts shop (old guys with grease in nails G0D LOVE 'EM!) that this caddy had same problemas me.
3 ICM in short time.
Too short a time...
Installed his last one & problem solved.
I hope that's true for me.

Coil & ICM need not match brands.

Tom, my problem was the igniton wires at the front passenger side radiator support junction box, protective coating was pushed back & wires crossign causing engine run on.

My Accel coils are fine/prefectly good options for these 60* V-6.
Oh Tom was right that my engine run problem on WAS NOT CAUSED BY MY COIL.

Try the Permatex Stuff, you will "feel the differnce".
Hope this helps ya.
I know I wasn't thrilled to have my engine die while doing 75MPH on freeway.
I'd like to believe my ICM problem is now solved.