I got a new set of the Accel 8mm wires, platnum plugs, tranny fluid, filter kit, rear-end fluid (I hope 4 bottels will be enough) and the rear end gasket.

The fuel filter was original from the factory and it looks like the rear-end cover bolts and the tranny bolts have never been pulled and the gaskets look original. The accel super coil and high under the hood temps fried the stock AC Delco wires and the 12 quarts of oil that was run through the motor for 15 minutes (don't ask ) along will a ton of miles on the autolite plugs fried them.

Anyone want to take a wild guess what I will find when I get the cover and pan off? LOL!!!!!!!!! When I pulled the fuel filter the inside was in peices and blocking fuel flow and it really was from the factory.
Later
David

 

Wow, sounds like a hell of a fuel filter!! I did a friend's Mustang once, the filter looked factory... it was rusting thru, and the outer metal case was collapsing inward. Scary thing, that Mustang- the filter was above the rear bumper. Basically if I didn't wear safety goggles, I could've been blinded. Way to go Ford!

I think you know this but I'll just remind you not to over-torque the trans pan bolts when you put them back on. You're putting steel bolts into aluminum threads, and the threads can strip easily. Torque spec for those (if you have a torque wrench) is only 12-15 ft/lbs. MAKE SURE to install that trans pan gasket 100% dry!! Any trans fluid on the gasket, pan flange, or tranny flange will cause a leak!!!! When I drop the pan, after pouring out the old fluid, look at the bottom of the pan. Dark swirl marks usually mean burnt clutches. And of course you'll have the fuzzy magnet.

When you remove the old trans filter, don't throw it out. Put it on the side. Make sure you get the seal from the filter neck out of the trans; sometimes it sticks up there with heat. If you're careful, you can pry it down with a screwdriver, but try not to scratch the bore of the filter inlet hole. The o-ring seal is rubber around a metal band, so it won't really squish easily, you'll have to work it down from inside the trans.

When the old filter's drained of fluid, take pliers or a screwdriver (I use angle-cutters), and take the old filter apart. Separate the metal bottom from the plastic top. Unfold the filter media. This is where all the "big metal" hangs out.

Wipe the trans pan clean and dry with clean paper towels, clean all the threads of the trans pan bolts with the towels, too. When the pan is completely dry and the flange is completely dry, lay the new gasket on the pan. Not sure if you know this already but most gaskets have some bolt holes that are slightly smaller than the rest. These are for holding the gasket in place. Shove bolts thru these holes, and the bolt will stay locked in place so you can easily put the pan up to the trans. This is another reason why I use a Fel-Pro gasket on the trans pan, ALL of the bolt holes in the gasket are like this.

Right before you put the trans pan up, slide under the car with the pan- don't bring it NEAR the trans, don't drip any fluid on the gasket! "Blot" the valvebody of the trans with a wad of paper towels to remove any dripping trans fluid. Put the filter in!! (Don't forget!!! I usually put the new filter into the cleaned-out trans pan so I can't forget about the filter.) Wipe that trans flange so it's dry of trans fluid! (You might need to blot the valvebody again.) When everything's dry and there's no danger of dripping trans fluid on the gasket and the flange on the transmission is dry, quickly grab the pan, stick the pan against the trans and start hand-tightening those locked-into-the-gasket bolts. Now thread in the rest of the bolts, hand tighten 'em, move quickly so no trans fluid leaks between the gasket and the pan flange. Then torque those bolts down in an alternating criss-cross pattern; the exact pattern isn't too important as long as you make sure you go in a criss-cross motion.

I bet that rear axle fluid will be dark as hell, and smell really rank. Hopefully you don't find any surprises on that rear's magnet! I use a gasket sealant on the rear's gasket, Permatex's "High Tack", comes in a metal can with the brush in the cap for $3 at pep boys. Criss-cross the torque sequence of these bolts, too, I think spec is 20 ft/lbs. Two bottles should be enough to fill the rear. I cut the extreme tip of those bottle spouts off, slide a 6 inch piece of old fuel line over the tip, and use that to fill the rear. There's just enough room under the car to invert the gear fluid bottle, as long as you're using a scrap of hose. Be careful the hose doesn't slip off the tip, or you'll get covered with that nasty cat-**** smelling gear lube. (gag) It aint so bad when you're standing a few feet away, but when your nose is 3 inches from the stuff, (gag)

 

If your rear diff is a posi, then make sure to add some limited-slip additive along with the standard diff fluid. If it's an open diff disregard this message.

 

I just gotta point this out..dude, you're in Civil Air Patrol? Lol cool..I was in a few years ago but dropped out. SBCS...South Brevard Composite Squadron..the Wolfpack.. I wasnt an 'official' member cause I was only like 15...heh..but they considered me part of the squadron anyways.

 

Tom thanks for the info, I got a kit from advancedauto parts, the guy drives an IROC and the kit comes with a rubber trans pan gasket (LS1 T/A on the box). I also got some nice havoline fluid (did not want to spend the $7 a quart on junk B&M trick shift but the rear end cover is a fel-pro.
I will do all the work in the morning along with the rebuild on the drum brakes, today I was just to lazy and tired and it was 20 degrees out, that and I dumped the girl I was seeing so I will let you all know how messy I got and how bad everything looks, I may even pull the bottom valve section out and give it a good cleaning.

Nixon, you should get back in there has been a lot of changes and it is much better now, I am in the process of transfering to senior member, squadron ground team leader, observer, urban SAR qualified, disaster relief, training for counter drug and police dive SAR, also was a drill team leader that went on to national, medic certified with special training in feild truama, several missions under my belt, graduate from NGSAR and Advanced NGSAR, one of 3 ground team leaders in the state, I could go on forever LOL once I get the police diver certification I will be certified in all forms of search and rescue (SAR). Its a rush man.
Later
David

 

Dang man... A friend of mine got promoted months ago to be like head of the squadron..I forget the positions anymore, been a long time. It's been improving a lot here too, but I just have no military interest anymore, so... I'm a pacifist..big time.

 

For your promotion to Major you have to command the squadron for a minimum of six mounths. Most people in the CAP are interested in millitary thats why they have gone more homeland defense and all that and even here pretty soon our BDU's are going to be all blue and not the cammo (bad for the ground teams) but we are moving National to the Pentagon. Like I said most of us are not all gung ho millitary just love saving lives and getting drugs off the streets and stoping rag heads.

 

Tranny is done, not much dirt but the fluid was VERY dark, no signs of burnt clutches, to be honest after I got the fluid out the tranny looked brad new on the inside. I also got the Accel wires on, VERY nice item. The rear-end gets done on Teusday.

Word of advice to anyone doing this in the furture, get the car as high off the ground as you can, use a WIDE container to catch all the fluid, keep some cat litter on hand, have a few razor blades on hand, and use a few dabs of sealent to hold on the new rubber gasket while you put the pan on, this will save many headaches.

 

Why'd you need the sealant? The gasket didn't have any of those smaller bolt holes in it? Glad to hear the trans wasn't spitting metal out at you!!

 

By the time I got the old gasket scraped off and was ready to re-install I was very tired and VERY cold and there is nothing to hold the new gasket on the pan so it kept slipping off so after four attempts I said "Ill fix you" and dabed on a little sealent just to hold in on long enough to run some bolts in.

I also learned that in the haynes manuals it says to pull the retaining clips out of the shifting linkage before removing the pan, you only need to pull the two bolts and the linkage is no longer in your way. It all went fairly easy but scraping the gasket sure was a pain