Yep, so I coast to safe stop. And get towed home.

I bring another module to parts store to have it tested.
I insert the good Module & car runs fine..

BUT WHAT I DISCOVERED.

Ever replace one of those things?
Supplied & to be used is a WHITE GREASE & quantity is "some".
While having ICM tested (I cheated TOM!!), it was told to me that,
One customer & his Cadillac had same problems, many, too many ICM failures.
After third one on his Caddy, problem solved.
FOR ME
I was offered to use INSTEAD
Dielectric CLEAR PASTE GREASE (THICK & GOOEY) made by Permatex.
I clean the distributor base of the old stuff, laid on THICK film of this clear Permatex goo & car is smooth idle as my 2 year old Sons' butt!

I'd like to believe this ICM issue a done deal now.
Hope this may give a tip to others.

 

I removed my module the other day and that white crap is already dried up.. after 5 months. It's still a bit gooey I guess, but I don't see how it can work too well anymore. I couldn't see any dielectric grease I've ever used outlasting that, though. Let us know.

 

so its running again ked??

To bad, now you cant drive the vette anymore

 

So its running again ked??
To bad, now you can't drive the vette anymore

SEZ WHO!!!!
I don't have a stable of rides so I can let them rest!

NOW onto the 3.4 Blazer final details & install the fuel system.
3.4 blocks are MINUS a mechaical fuel pump set up on block. My 85 Blazer 2.8 block used a mechanical Fuel pump.
I'm installing & using a Heavy Duty Carter 5-7 PSI electric fuel pump for that solution.

I DO SUGGEST YOU GO GET THIS PERMATEX DIELECTRIC STUFF.
It may save you a problem like mine.
Yeah, my ICM was replaced by me in July this year.
AND I OF COURSE followed what suggestions I was offered.
As I have, this time, too.
We'll see.

Until I rebuildthe steering box of my 1974 Corvette, i just enjoy the Firebird more.
I couldn't care if my 135,000 mile original Corvette motor puffs blue.
I've built a 1970 Corvette LT-1/Camaro Z-28 mill, to break in under that Corvette hood & then it goes to "home" in the "legit" 1967 Camaro RS/SS 4-Speed Convert.
I only need port & polish one more "186" head to "build the LT-1/Z-28 motor".
Still recovering from a sprained shoulder.
It took me 10 hours to port & polish one head (while I learned same time, too) so far. My shoulder isn't ready yet for that effort.

 

Just trying to give ya some $hit ked.

I would be driving vette more then bird, I THINK.
However, I'm sure the bird gets more mpg then that vette does. And with gas prices like they are now, isn't that the key??

 

Dale
You and everyone here is always welcome to give me $hit.
I'm sure I've deserved it more than once!!!!

MPG??????
It's steering box that prevents me from enjoying the Corvette more & more.
SO MUCH PLAY.
Already rebuild entire front end.
Now I need rebuild power steering sytem, check/adjust play in steering box, or just toss (put aside, it's date coded for those NCRS fans like me!) & buy a new one for MUCH LESS than effort to rebuild.
Why in this instance?
My old steering box may have "TOO MANY tolerences out" for bushings & etc, internally, that are "unknown" until ya install & drive it agian.
I've heard of several C3 owners going thru steering boxes & rebuilds.
A place called Flaming River makes Vette boxes for about $300 & it's 100% BRAND NEW (including the outer casing).
Bargin & no guess work.
Just 3 bolts (frame) & one pitman arm bolt & done.
The PS stuff, is a SLAVE CYLINDER & control valve attached to steering linkage.
Good/bad design...
FYI
IF you ever see old 65-73 Mustangs & Mavericks, you'll see hoses exposed under chassis.
Ford chose the same "PS system" set up, too.
Can you say Leak?

It was fun to beat on the Firebird again.
I truly enjoy driving the Firebird alot.
Easy on gas, powerful enough and can haul me, Son & Wife with stuff.
AND I feel very safe with Wife & Son ALONE in that car (crash protection).
Hasn't needed to test that theory yet (Tip of m'hat to the heavens above!).
After a week plus of $hit from life, you guys here can dump on me anytime.

 

Cool, thanks for the info, Karl! Ya know, when my mechanic rebuilt my distributor for the first time ever, I found out that he used that clear silicone, too. When I rebuilt my distributor a couple years later (module died), I saw the clear stuff, and thought he used the wrong goop. Maybe he used the clear stuff on purpose. I used the white stuff on the module when I rebuilt mine. Hm...

 

FYI
I DID NOT remove any "traces" of the white stuff on my "replacement" module.
The MAJORITY of it "Stuck" to the distb base and THAT BASE I did clean (just wiped off).
Hey if it ain't broke......
Anyone else wipe out their ICM by a HIGH RPM BLAST?
I was told that "some" may have built in "speed" limiters.
ONLY passing that along.....
I do strongly suggest using the Permatex type stuff for the replacment of your Igniton Control Module

 

This ignition module stuff is interesting. There are others on this site that seem to have the same problem: modules that don't last. Folks keep replacing them and they don't last. From another site there is info that claims coils made South of the border may be to blame.

Seems the insulation breaks down and starts killing modules. I have a Blaster II coil here that actually tests OK on the bench, the engine will pop & sputter while cranking, but will not run. Maybe want to replace the coil too.

As far as high RPM I know of an installation that does 7,500 RPM on a regular basis. Well, not a daily driver, but sees high RPM whenever it can. This is not a GM module, it is white in color. Junkyard module so we don't know the manufacturer.

(Since I'm on a roll), I've taken to replacing the external E coil with an oil filled cannister coil. Use the Made In The USA Summit brand in gloss black for $17 (chrome is $19). Mucho better spark, junkyard bracket and a homemade adaptor harness.

RBob.

 

I'd LOVE to think I could grab spare modules from wrecking yards & trust them....
Had an Accel coil.
Put it on my 1974 Corvette.
Corvette would die while driving (sputter, slow, keep going raise RPM attempt to die, etc).
DISCOVERED it was a Chrysler RACING SPEC coil (I called Accel)
Racing coils put out EXTREME POWER & HEAT for the SOLE PURPOSE OF SHORT DISTANCE RACING.
My street driving was causing it to overheat & fail.
This answer was told me by the Accel rep I got on the phone.
I went to the correct GM spec'd Accel coil & it's still on my ride since like 4-5 years now.