Alright, I need to get my car to pass smog before the end of the month. Here's why it won't pass. Idle speed is too high. Whatever I do, I can't get it to idle below about 800. It's supposed to be around 650, right? So now I'm looking to get some advice on this. It also failed because the SES light came on and the idle went way up. I pulled the code from my car and it gave 42, the ignition module. This is only an intermittant code though. Sometimes it's on, but most of the time it's off. i checked all of the wiring, and that seems fine. If it is bad, would that cause the slightly higher idle? Just looking fo ideas here. Gettin' kinda deperate at this point. Anyone?

 

That could very well be part of your idle problem. They are like 20-25 bux I think for a oem replacement. Like 40-50 or so for an accell one. Its somewhat easy to replace, just requires crawling on top the engine for a bit .

I have heard of people filing down that stop thing to try and get the idle lower. But IMO if its not ideling right, that means something is wrong and I need to find it.

 

I have had many ignition modules fail on me in several different type of cars and have never had a SES code thrown because of it- With that said, I would have to say its telling you something. I would replace it first and see what you have. I would suggest buying an A/C Delco unit because most others are crap.

 

Becarefull , crawling on the motor for ignition work can be real nut busters if your not carefull . That damn fender will crush your nuts everytime , and ya cant even walk it off !!!! you migt be laughing , but Im serious ! lol

 

what are the current readings? not passing just due to idle? wtf?

 

HC = 108 PPM
Max hc = 114(close, but still passing)

CO = 0.8%
Max = 2%

NOx = 0.2%
Max = i forgot, but i passed this easily

What they do here in california is check the SES light, then run the car on a dyno to take the emissions readings. Then they do a Fuel cap pressure test and check the timing. When they got to the Fuel cap test the SES light came on and the idle went up to ~1600 rpm. The SES light is an automatic fail, and the computer senses the wrong idle speed and fails you because if you have the wrong idle speed, you have the wrong base timing(it assumes). My timing is set to 10 degrees BTDC(right where it should be.

Check out the post "revs high when warm" by alexuk in this forum for a better description of what happens. I replied there too, hoping to get some help becuase this is the problem that I am dealing with exactly. Couldn't have posted better than him.

Hope this gets me some help

 

pull the SES blub and plug off the EGR so they cant tell. EGR only really works at speed and it unhooked made my car idle better but it seamed to lack else where a tad so I turned it back on.

 

if you pull the SES light then you automatically fail the smog test for having a "faulty" Engine control system. Thought about that, but that's the first thing they check here in California.

 

Stil have the problem. I went through on wednesday and replaced all of the seals/vacuum lines from the throttle plate back. I even sealed it with gaskesinch(sp?). I know that there aren't any vacuum leaks now. What else could be causing the high idle problem. Could it be the handy work of a bad O2 sensor? Now i'm looking for theories on this because all of me "failproof" ideas have failed. I feel like Pinky and The Brain trying to fix this. No matter how good the plan sounds, it doesn't work. Also, When i come to a light, my idle stays at about 1250rpm, but goes down after I tap the gas. It's like the plate is sticking. I tried cleaning it, and even lubed it. it moves smoother now, but still wont close all the way most of the time. Could it be time to replace the TB? Could the srping be failing? Ideas anyone?

 

Maybe the TPS is bad. If the output voltage is out of spec, it could be causing the motor to idle higher as the TPS tells the computer to advance timing.

 

What should the TPS output voltage be? I thought about that and the Haynes manual says that it should be between 0.54 and 0.56. I tested that out and it was originally 0.36, so I adjusted it to 0.55. Is it supposed to be lower. Thanks. Also, just remembered, the base timing is 10* BTDC. Dead on spec. So i know it's not this. I also have cleaned out the IAC passage and the pintle, so this should be fine.

 

Nope... where you have it set is fine then.

However... If you can test the voltage to see if it goes from .55 to 4.5 smoothly, that would help. Basically with the voltmeter leads by the TPS, move the throttle lever to WOT and see if the voltage changes smoothly.

 

Did that too. I think i have successfully ruled out the TPS as an offender, but I think I might check it again when i get home from work. Isn't this great, I get to sit at work and talk about my car all day...too bad it's about a problem. The thing gained soooo much more uummph when I adjusted the TPS. Very surprising. Any other thoughts?

 

Did you change the ignition module?

 

Not yet, do you think that could be it? Other than the high idle the car seems to run great. If i could get away with it, i would leave it the hell alone. But I have to pass smog. How would I go about testing it, could I just diconnect the wire and disable the EST and see if it idles lower, or doesn't this effect the Ignition. Now that I think about it, it probobly doesn't, but it might be worth a shot, What do you guys think? Also thought I should let you know about the SES light that comes on when I come to the light. I stop and the idle sits at about 1250, if I tap the gas the idle drops back down to ~850, but if i let it idle where it wants to, the SES light comes on after the engine temp is showing 220. I pulled the code and it gave me cade 24, the Vehicle Speed Sensor. I figure this just comes on because the engine is at idle, but actually running slightly higher, therefore the wheels should be moving if it's off idle. But it's not getting a signal from the VSS telling it that it's moving, so it thinks there is somthing wrong. WOW, can you follow that? Also, does my car ahave a VSS. It's a 5-speed and i thought that the sole function of the VSS on our cars was to tell the computer when to lock the converter. Thanks again.

 

well I have sorted out my camaro and it was my fault when I cleaned out my TB I must have put the 2 air lines in the wrong way and it work great now I put them back in the right way
This my not be the same problem you have if you did it right in the first place but thought I would let you know
:lala: :lala: :lala: