today at work my car would not start. so i bought some starting fluid and spryed it in the tb.. while someone started it . it ran off the starting fluid but would stop when i stoped sprying it.. i have spark. the fuel relay does work when i put the car in the "on" postistion the relay will click and vibrate... is there a way i can strait wire it??? PLEASE HELP...... I NEED MY CAR.....

thanks for any input. chris

 

Do you hear the fuel pump prime its self when you turn the key?

 

i dont remember.... i could not here it any way.. is there a fuse that could have blown??

 

When my car died the other day (Ignition Control Module failure-AGAIN!!), it sputtered, then finally died.
What I'm saying is
Simple trick/test to isolate a problem.....
Find a PAPERCLIP, remove A SPARKPLUG WIRE FROM THE PLUG IN THE ENGINE, insert paperclip, inside the plug wire BOOT, AND PLACE the plug wire/with paperclip near any real metal under hood.
Turn over engine, observe the spark jumping from the clip to the metal ground
IF THE SPARK YOU SEE, IS PRESENT AND ANY OTHER COLOR BUT LIGHTENING BOLT BRIGHT WHITE, you have ignition problems.
Two choices.
Your Ignition Control Module is dead
OR
Coil is shot.
Are these two items original, never in your car ownership, changed?
Simple to fix, just swap in those items, new.

Onto fuel.
Serious, you NEED A FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE to read fuel pressure. Fuel pressure MUST be a reading of about 45 lbs.

Majority of times, "car no start" is down to those itmes.
ESPECIALLY IF the car ran "fine/OK" before this fun started.
One test is quite easy to do. That does help narrow down the problems.

 

i know that the coil is good so are the cap rotor wires and plugs becouse i replaced them last week lol.. any who, the car ran off of strating fluid.. so i know im getting spark.. now. how do i test to see if im getting fule, and how do i install a fuel pressure gauge????

 

DON'T ASSUME YOU ARE GETTING SPARK and A STRONG SPARK IS DEFINETLY NEEDED.
Try the papaerclip test, to see if you can eliminate the ignition system
Fuel pressure is read by finding the SCHRADER VAlVE.
It looks LIKE A TIRE STEM VALVE, YET LARGER.
It's located BY BACK NEAR DISTRIBUTOR area, under the TOP manifold. IT CAN BE EASILY ACCESSED without any parts removal.
Start driver side, FRONT, follow the TWO PARELLEL FUEL LINES (Hard metal & rubber tubes) towards back of engine.
You'll find the valve that way.
IT HAS A METAL CAP.
Remove cap, you'll see the fitting.
Ya can press down on that to "see fuel gush out".
YET
That "test" does NOT determine fuel pressure.
I know, I thought so, too!
I did this, myself.
Upon obtaining fuel pressure gauge, screw into fitting, turn on ignition.
No true need to crank over engine. Look at reading.
When I HAD to replace my fuel pump, my worn out pump pressure read 10 lbs.
It should be at 45 and steady.
Try the paperclip/spark test first to totally eliminate the ignition system as the weak link.

When my ICM just failed other day, my car, did "start" again.
Yet it died, real quick.
Paperclip/Spark test is always "free" (no tools needed!).
Good luck!

 

i plan on installing a v8 when i do i will need to replace the fule pump...now if my pump is bad now then there in no need to replace it with another v6 pump... what kind of aftermarket pump could i get that would work with both v6-v8?????

i wish i could test those things now... but my car is at work and im at home stuck here becous our driveway is all ice and we cant get out...

 

o yea is there a gage that i can buy at advansed auto.. that will mount on the fitting for good???

 

I just made mine. Basiaclly it was a mechanical psi gauge with a long plastic hose and I had a fitting that screws onto the shrader valve. My psi reading was 42 when the car was turned on or to the position that primes the pump.

 

Due to our numerous fuel pump discussions
it has been discovered that
V-8 MPFI rides have a HIGHER pressurized fuel pump
To fix the V-6 intank pump, you need to drop tank and replace it that way.
An external fuel pump idea doesn't work at all.
Notr does cutting hole in floor to swap pumps.
Ya must bite bullet and do it the correct factory designed way.
I thought otherwise and discovered....
IF ya gonna install a V-8 under your current V-6 ride, don't waste the time.
Unload the V-6 ride, right now.
Go find a cheap V-8 powered ride with all the stuff ya need for a V-8 ride.
Don't bother installing a V-8 in a V-6 powered car.
Why?
IT IS NOT COST EFFECTIVE AT ALL.
SO MUCH NEEDS TO CHANGE, ya just wasting time.
Unless ya wanna do a hack job from hell MPFI V-6 ->V-8 job, then go at it.
Serious, Go find a cheap, dime a dozen V-8 powered ride for the stronger V-8 power ya seek.
IF ya had a 82-84 CARB'D V-6 ride, it's very simple to change all ya need do to get the V-8 power.
When ya START with a MPFI V-6 platform, it's seriously cost prohibitive swap.
That's why my sig says what it does.

I only coach on the 3.4 power upgrade.
The swap works great, it's powerful and cost effective AND passes CA Smog testing WITH EASE!

Good luck with the fuel pump challenge.
I was loaned pressure testing tool.
All ya need do to test is obtain the tool, find the fitting, attach tool to fitting, turn key. You see answer, instantly.

PS We had this storm last week in SoCal.
Got 6" of rain in two days.
CA needed it, too.

 

1st the fuel pump is no good... we tested it and it needs replaceing...47.49 is how much a new one is..

2nd i will not fix it becouse it's not worth it to me at this time...the way i look at it is why spend 50 now and wast all that time doing the swap when i will be installing a fuel sending unit from a carbed v8 donor car...

3rd the car will be parked... so begins the work.... v6 to v8.....

4th if i wanted the "easy way out" i would have bought a *****..

every thing takes work this is what i want...becouse the v6 vin....
and hard top+i know what the car needs....it has185000 miles on the stock motor.....its time to switch drive trains..



THANK YOU FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP...CHRIS

 

Whoho I was right on the ball yesterday Good luck with the engine swap.

 

damm i can never make my mind up..... i have to fix it..for right now its the cheapest way out right now...so i had to cut my mufflers to day tank is not down yet but it will be soon

 

When mine went, it wasn't exactly perfect timing, either.
DO A COMPLETE & THROUGH JOB.
DON'T CUT CORNERS.
This job is a PITA, yet, done right, you'll never regret your effort.
Hey, know anyone else, selling a car, that'll work great, for only about $100 in parts?
I replaced every soft item ya see.
(IN TANK) Hoses, the pump motor, strainer sock, pulsator & obviously, the fuel filter.
Hey, ya get a better muffler, in the end, too.
And how much your power & gas milage increase, is a big bonus.

 

well i already have a new muffler with duel exahast..


Hey, know anyone else, selling a car, that'll work great, for only about $100 in parts?
I replaced every soft item ya see.

do you need any inerior parts
???

any way are the fuel pumps from advanced auto any good they want 47.00 for it????

 

back when i used to drive my 84 blazer, i was takin my now ex gf home 20 miles away and the bolts holding my fuel pump on fell out and it kept stallin....she was some rich girl that thought of a car made in 98 as being old and after my car trouble yall can guess i never heard from her again...oh well

 

ha ha o man that sucks o well bet she was a B*tch

 

Only interior part I seek is a good dashboard for a 1985 Firebird. I seek local purchase.

I spent about $100 on my fuel pump parts and everything is AC Delco
I don't believe I'll need do this fuel pump job again until 2022

It's your call what brand parts ya install.
Have fun with this project, as it ain't.

 

yup that she was, he dad was worse than her..lol he was one of those threating dads....him and his stupid 03 slowstang....lol

 

I will second this opinion. Doing the tank was the worst job I ever did. I am only 20 now, but I would hate to have to do it again. It was definitly worth it because of rising fuel costs, and the leaky tank would have costed more then fixing it. I would recommend taking your time in this area. And the highlight to this project is putting it in is just as miserable as taking it out.

Good luck with the whole V-8 swap.

 

HI Joe
IS IT WARM YET?
I second that.
Really is a PITA project.
That's why I went whole hog & done ONLY ONCE until 2022!

 

My fuel pump and tank swap wasnt to bad. I jacked up the rear end,put it on blocks, cut off the tail pipe before the rearend, took off the panhard bar, yelled and got lots dirt in my eyes before I got my saftey glasses out. I didnt drop the rear end cause I didnt want to mess with it. After that I just had to wiggle the tank out and re wiggle the new one in with my all brand new ACdelco parts

 

DAMN THAT INTERIOR LOOKS NICE!

 

son of a B*tch.....i could not get the bar above the panhard bar off(i think its the trailing arm) i got the part off with the three bolts that go to the body but i could not get the bolt out of the bushing ..i got the nut off thought.....wd40 and a hammer didint do a damm thing....any way today from 4-6 i puled the tank out in 45 min...with that damm bar in my way(lol boy im good) then bought a new pump and strainer.. and installed it in the tank..then reinstalled the tank in less then 1/2 hour......

damm im so sore right now i was in all kind's of postions under the car trying to bolt the tank back up.....

did i metion that the tank was 1/2 full help....

any way just thought you would like an update.....this is worse than putting a motor in.....

 

Tell us you did replace the rubber line with new clamps by the Fuel Pump you just installed?

It's a PITA but upon vehicle starting and smooth idle & new found power, you'll soon laugh at this episode.

Good going.
And this tank pump job is less effort than an engine swap.
This job requires no custom work, except, as you said, new body motions & positions.

 

ha ha i laghf now but b4 i did not....yea i replaced the calmps...k

to day i got the running and back togeather...

but it ran like absolute crap....then i drove the hell out of it for 5 mi

floored it everywhere...(i was pissed) it would stall and crap...then it ran perfict...it did not stall or any thing i think there was air in the line.....problem #1 fixed

now problem#2- i had to cut the muffler and let me explain this as simple as i can.....i have 2 1/2 in pipe where the cat is suposetobe..there is a glasspac... then i have 2 1/2 in pipe going to an offbrand flowmaster with duel tips..... so where i had to cut the exhaust to get the gas tank out... it was aiming to the gas tank... so then i had to cut it stright out so it would not heat the gas tank up and BLOW ME UP....

now now problem # 3- i had to stright wire the fule pump up to a batt switch so it would run...now i tested this when i was making sure it wasent the relay...so with the new fuel pump i think the relay is out....how do i check out the relay for the fuel....now could it be the oil sending unit switch???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

but with the car(fuel pump stright wired) it now runs good....so please help

 

Don't Feel so bad...
I started my Blazer today with the swapped 3.4 mill.
Got it to fire, not run smooth nor strong.
Let it die, checked things...
Then did it again and got flames outta carb.
Asked buddy whom will be by tomorrow for another set of eyes & hands to help.
From past, that hose/line controls the pressure.
IF not secure, ya may run into problem.
Good gogin ya got this far.
Keep at it.
Rehook up the correct way for fuel pump wiring.
I recall hearing the fuse is by front, passenger side, by overflow tank.

 

oooooo my goooooood dose it ever end.....last night i finlly got the car to run deacent....then i was on my trek home and the vots go down to 8 then the head lights whent out then(it was raingin) i was on the hiway when this happend so im going 75 my speedo did not work....my lights did not work no windshild wipers all hell broke loose.....anyways i cried and whent on i made it 30 mi on a 8 volt battt..... so today i replaced the alternater and the pos ran good its about time.....

it only cost me 100 $ for an alt.... dammm that alot.....

 

That's not so bad.
My alternator was dying & it kept frying my ICM.
Stuck on overcharging, just your opposite!
Happened to Wife & Son whle I wasn't with them.
I fixed for free (warrantied stuff), but she was very spooked when car died while driving.

She just returned, by herself from a 50 mile round trip. She came home fine & with smile.
I was glad I made her feel well, today.

These rides DEMAND peak energy (alternator fully charging) and no vacuum leaks.