Tick sound on my V6 and spark plug Q
Tick sound on my V6 and spark plug Q
You can barely hear it.. Usually when I first start the car.. but even after it warms up I can still hear it.. after about 15-20 mins of driving it goes away.
Any idea what this might be?? Its not engine knock forsure.. to high pitched. A friend said I should toss in some tranny fluid into the carb to clean out the carbon.. Not sure about using that but that top engine clearer stuff maybe.. Do you think its a carbon issue?
Also #1 spark plug is getting a mild build up of carbon.. all others are a nice clean.. light brown color.. these appear to be working correctly. Why would I have one plug carbon up but not others? I dont think its a valve issue.. mind you Im not a machanic.. I figure after 15-20 mins of driving the sound is gone. if its a bad valve wouldn't be present all the time? Also I dont think its the timing chain as I would have to think that I would have problems with other plugs..
Whats your take on this?
Thanks for your time guys.. Tim.
Oh.. I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor about amonth ago.. and timing is dead on.
Any idea what this might be?? Its not engine knock forsure.. to high pitched. A friend said I should toss in some tranny fluid into the carb to clean out the carbon.. Not sure about using that but that top engine clearer stuff maybe.. Do you think its a carbon issue?
Also #1 spark plug is getting a mild build up of carbon.. all others are a nice clean.. light brown color.. these appear to be working correctly. Why would I have one plug carbon up but not others? I dont think its a valve issue.. mind you Im not a machanic.. I figure after 15-20 mins of driving the sound is gone. if its a bad valve wouldn't be present all the time? Also I dont think its the timing chain as I would have to think that I would have problems with other plugs..
Whats your take on this?
Thanks for your time guys.. Tim.
Oh.. I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor about amonth ago.. and timing is dead on.
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
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Sounds like something's wrong with that cylinder...either it's not firing right or you're running rich..maybe a screwy injector. When there's something wrong in the cylinder, the injectors click..don't know if they do this with fuel issues but I know, for instance, if you have a cylinder that isn't firing, the injector makes a ticking sound..sounds like it's coming from a valve cover.
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From: Elkton MD USA
Car: 1983, 1986
Engine: 2.8 2bbl, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 200C 3 speed, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.42
He's got an 82 so no injectors...
Tim, I do believe that the ticking is your mixture control solenoid. They are supposed to tick so if you are getting no codes and the car runs good, I would leave it be.
After a couple thousand miles, I would re check the condition of the #1 plug compared to the others.
Tim, I do believe that the ticking is your mixture control solenoid. They are supposed to tick so if you are getting no codes and the car runs good, I would leave it be.
After a couple thousand miles, I would re check the condition of the #1 plug compared to the others.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: St.Louis, Missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L V-6
Transmission: Fresh 700R4
and you REALLY don't want to put tranny fluid in your carb to clean out the carbon, you have two options here
1) Carb Cleaner open the carb plates (with engine running) till you reach 2000-2500 rpm then spray carb cleaner into the carb cleaning it VERY thorouly (you will want to use at least half the can doing this and it will take 10-15 mins to do properly
2) Water Method Some of the old hot rod guys swear by this method they say it works even better than carb cleaner, you once again open up the throttle plates to 2000-2500 rpm then slowly...very slowly begin to pour in a large glass of water into the carb this method is supposed to be one of the best ways to clean carbon out of the engine (particularly the valves) and won't hurt it at all
hope this helps
1) Carb Cleaner open the carb plates (with engine running) till you reach 2000-2500 rpm then spray carb cleaner into the carb cleaning it VERY thorouly (you will want to use at least half the can doing this and it will take 10-15 mins to do properly
2) Water Method Some of the old hot rod guys swear by this method they say it works even better than carb cleaner, you once again open up the throttle plates to 2000-2500 rpm then slowly...very slowly begin to pour in a large glass of water into the carb this method is supposed to be one of the best ways to clean carbon out of the engine (particularly the valves) and won't hurt it at all
hope this helps
If it is a slight tick, it could be just a lifter a little bit out of adjustment. When the engine and the oil warms up, the sound goes away. I have seen this happen before.
Another possibility is a very small exhaust leak. My truck did this because one of the manifold bolts was broken off. It would tick slightly for a couple of minutes after you started it, but as the manifold heated up and expanded, the ticking would stop. They didn't use gaskets between the manifold and the head on my truck from the factory. I am not sure about a gasket in your car. My 1992 did not have them from the factory. If it would have had the gasket, then the gasket would have quickly burned out in my truck, causing a lot of exhaust noise.
Another possibility is a very small exhaust leak. My truck did this because one of the manifold bolts was broken off. It would tick slightly for a couple of minutes after you started it, but as the manifold heated up and expanded, the ticking would stop. They didn't use gaskets between the manifold and the head on my truck from the factory. I am not sure about a gasket in your car. My 1992 did not have them from the factory. If it would have had the gasket, then the gasket would have quickly burned out in my truck, causing a lot of exhaust noise.
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Doesn't water not compress so when it gets into the cylinder and the piston compresses then it would bend a rod. I actually saw this one time when I was at my friends auto shop. They had a POS **** rocket in there with a "performance" air intake that went down below the front airdam. Anyways when the guy drove through a puddle of water it sucked some water up into the intake. It went into the cylinder and bent one of the rods so that it was at about a 45 degree angle. Not good. VERY EXPENSIVE.
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
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Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
my brother would do that on his 85/86 IROC. he used controlled amounts of water. but yeah, most likely either a lifter or exhaust leak.
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Supposedly you can also put water in an old windex bottle, and mist the water in front of the intake (port injection OR carburetor). If the car was fuel injected, I'd also say "check for an exhaust leak"- but I don't know much about the E2SE carb; if it's a mixture solenoid, I'd be the wrong person to ask!
Originally posted by MDv6man
He's got an 82 so no injectors...
Tim, I do believe that the ticking is your mixture control solenoid. They are supposed to tick so if you are getting no codes and the car runs good, I would leave it be.
After a couple thousand miles, I would re check the condition of the #1 plug compared to the others.
He's got an 82 so no injectors...
Tim, I do believe that the ticking is your mixture control solenoid. They are supposed to tick so if you are getting no codes and the car runs good, I would leave it be.
After a couple thousand miles, I would re check the condition of the #1 plug compared to the others.
I'll have to find some hose and start probing around then to find that tick.. it only bothers me because I dont know what it is and if it a sign of something to come.
I've heard of misting water into the carb.. I just swear that my mind cant comprehend this.. sucking water into a running engine.. rust.. oil.. How about that top end or is it engine cleaner? Im sure my car would only be helped by this as my brother used this car for years as a run around town car so it didnt get alot of highway driving to clean out some crap.
On the valve.. If it is a sticking valve.. how does one cure this? Is it sticking because of gunk in the guide or is it metal to metal sticking?
Thanks for all help.. wished I knew someone around here who could help.. your all I got
Tim
I've heard of misting water into the carb.. I just swear that my mind cant comprehend this.. sucking water into a running engine.. rust.. oil.. How about that top end or is it engine cleaner? Im sure my car would only be helped by this as my brother used this car for years as a run around town car so it didnt get alot of highway driving to clean out some crap.
On the valve.. If it is a sticking valve.. how does one cure this? Is it sticking because of gunk in the guide or is it metal to metal sticking?
Thanks for all help.. wished I knew someone around here who could help.. your all I got

Tim
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From: 107th and lower buckeye
Car: 91z28 and 88 SC thats for sale,in the sig
Engine: 305 TPI soon 383 stroker or 327
Transmission: t-5
whats the solenoid do? cause sometimes my car wonts start for crap, jsut once and a while,and when it does theirs a loud loud clicking sound,tehn it goes away like his does..
Tim,
Check this thread out.. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...g+valves+water
you might get some answers on the water... i would try it.. If your valve is flowting due to carbon build up that could cause knock..
Just my guess..
-Crisis-
Check this thread out.. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...g+valves+water
you might get some answers on the water... i would try it.. If your valve is flowting due to carbon build up that could cause knock..
Just my guess..
-Crisis-
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