My 1985 Firebird has the F41/Y99 option.
I recently asked GM Parts Direct & was suggested their choice of GM issued replacements at a little higher price than I thought it COULD be!

US having the V-6, what ya use & what ya pay & what ya source?
IF mailorder, what ya pay shipping?

WHAT DID YOU SPECIFICALLY ASK FOR when ya ordered your replacement shocks/struts?
Replacements for a V-6 powered ride or V-8 powered ride (Like Trans Am or Z-28) Third Gen F Body?

CAN I USE 4th Gen Struts & Shocks on our 3rd Gen rides? I'd like to assume I can use the rear 4th gen shocks.

Are the front ones a bear to replace or not?
Rear should be a slam dunk.

Interested in responses from Gabriel owners & possibly Monroes (YET I probably wouldn't buy Monroes-just curious).

I know KYB are a popular choice, tho, too.

PS I LOVE BILSTEIN$ & KONI$ but not for this ride. Unless I score at the yard for dirt cheap, like I scored for my 1974 Corvette. Used Koni's 5 way oil dampened shocks at $4/EACH! Rebuilt using poly mountings/bushings. Repainted Koni Red and added the Koni stickers from Koni. Adjusted per the Koni engineer with whom I spoke to.

 

I was gonna say Bilstein HD shocks and struts but you said you put them out of the picture... hehe I have them on my car and I totally love them. Plus before putting them on I was riding on the stock shocks and struts that were COMPLETELY shot, I couldn't believe how bad they were once I took them out and was able to compress and decompress them quite easily by hand! I pretty much believe that any sort of shock or strut would make quite a difference over stock worn out shocks and struts.

 

From what I have seen n read, 4th gen fronts will be a no-go.

I am interested in same topic, as mine needs them SOON.

 

i bought a pair of Gabriel Premium Gas Shocks for my rear, 20 dollars each at pepboys. havent installed them yet so i dunno how they are, probably just like stock but newer. mine has the originals. tirerack has some kyb for 14-20 each which i heard are pretty decent, but u got to pay shipping.

 

4th gens don't have a strut front end so they are out. The 4th gens rears I believe are the same.

I put KYB's on my car front and rear. Ordered from Summit racing, no shipping cost. Were inexpensive, can check web site too:

www.summitracing.com

Fronts can be a bear as the lower bolts are large and torqued tight. But not impossible. The rears are cake, upper stud nut is under carpet behind rear seat back.

RBob.

 

I just installed KYB GR-2 on front and rear. Significant improvement. $139.00 from Summit. Three hours to install.

 

I was gonna say Bilstein HD shocks and struts but you said you put them out of the picture...hehe I have them on my car and I totally love them.

I DREAM OF SCORING BILSTEINS IN THE WRECKING YARD AT $4 EACH!!!
What was the price for the Bilsteins? Probably more then I paid for this 1985 Firebird ($300 for the car).

Keep tossing out ideas, please.

I thought I was correct that the front of a 4th Gen was a no-go, too.
Lately I have seen late model 4th gens in the pick your parts so that was reason why my question of the 4th gens & their shocks.

I wonder if the 4th gen shocks are "different valved then the 3rd gen"?
Like perhaps a Z-28 compared to a Berlinetta?
Anyone, were you asked if these shocks to used on V-8 or V-6 rides?
Did that detail arise during shopping?

 

hey wwasem,
when your shocks and struts were shot, would you experience body roll like mine? also, if i go over a speed bump too fast, it feels as if the rear suspension is bottoming out (as if it is hitting a stopper or something). are my shocks and struts shot?

 

KED85 - When I bought the shocks yes they were quite expensive... Needless to say all together they were indeed over $300.... As for when I bought the shocks, no they did not ask if it was a V6 of V8. The only thing that matters between the V6 and V8 thing on susupension is pretty much the springs, which I'm sure you knew. As for shocks and struts, no difference. I researched that before buying them.

90firebird - Basically when I had the old ones one I could hit a bump that might look like nothing but it felt like I literally ran someone over. As for the body roll, yes, I'd have to imagine mine used to be somewhat like that. As for the sound of your rear suspesion, that is defiantely due to your shot struts and shocks. I'm not sure if the Firebird have that air dam piece under it or not, but I would scrape that thing non-stop before changing the shocks, the car now has MUCH more support and can actually manage to go over bumps. I mean I always thought that sports cars were a rough ride, but they're not supposed to be THAT rough and you should be able to corner with a LOT less body roll! Best of luck!

 

I figured that Bilstein dream was too good!
My current shocks/struts are/have leaked.
They gone!
That's why the hunt.....
And as inexpensive for the effort, too!

 

I already did the front/rear shock thing. I believe it matters 6 or 8 for the struts, I could be wrong though, and didn't matter for the rear. Struts were $50 each, shocks about $18. and then subtract 20% for AZ employee discount . 3rd & 4th gen rear shocks are the same/interchangable.

Biggest PITA was getting those big bolts/nuts loose that hold the strut to the steering knuckle. may as well replace lower ball joints while they're exposed & easy to get too. Relatively easy, once you figure out what side the pieces actually go on & have the clamp right side up . I also replaced inner/outer tie rods, adjusting sleves, and outer sway bar bushings.

 

I'd do the front struts but the only problem to me was the 208 ft lbs of torque my 88' GM Service Manual says you need to have on the lower two bolts for the strut. I mean dang I have yet to see a torque wrench that goes that high. For me to do it myself I would definitely need some air tool help. Other than that torque rating they look like they would be rather easy.

On another note, DO NOT DO 4TH GEN STRUTS! My brother has a 99 Z28 and purchased the SLP upgraded suspension package the SS has. We did everything fine till we got to the front. We took off one side and ended up having to break nuts off the stock shocks and use hammers and all sorts of stuff just to limp the car to a shop. So unless you're really experienced and have air tools don't mess with a 4th gen front struts. I think I managed to bend the spring compresser too somehow, maybe it was all that banging with the rubber mallet.

 

Just put in Gabrial (sp?) Premium Gas Shocks in the rear. They are doing great so far, especially for the price. I do a lot of driving both on highway and city all over Hampton Roads (trust me when I say Norfolk needs to do something with their streets and Portsmouths getting worse and worse). Anyhow, the point to all this, They work good ... at high speeds (60+mph) a little rough with smaller bumps but handles the larger ones great ... at low speeds their great and in between they do pretty good too. Also they handle body roll pretty well when you take on and off ranps like I do (50+mph), got into that habit with the Impulse (stock it had a .89 g on the skid pad, could take those suckers at 70+ and never hear a tire), but this cars much much heavyer.

For the price of these things I'm more than pleased, I'm estastic.

S.K.
'91 RS 3.1L 700R4

 

I have been happy with KYBs...believe it or not, Year One had the best price last I checked. KY34 front GR2 struts are $42.95 each; rear shocks KY36 are $15.40 each (minus 10% FORMER employee discount for me!) . KYB doesn't specify engine in their catalog.

I once saw a demostration of the internals of all the major brand shocks, and the KYB had better quality components than a lot of the higher end shocks. They're not Konis, but you're only spending $116.70.

 

Struts were $50 each, shocks about $18. and then subtract 20% for AZ employee discount

What brand name?

I have been happy with KYBs...believe it or not, Year One had the best price last I checked.
KY34 front GR2 struts are $42.95 each;

What's the difference between the GR-2 & their other name brand, an all white tube design?

Thanks all!

Where are the bushings on the front suspension?
Just underside? Lower A Arm? Not top?

 

The GasAjust is there other (more expensive) line; for some reason they don't list a front strut in the Gasajust series, so I went with all GR2s. I'm not sure what the difference is, but I have been happy with GR2s.

In the front suspension, you have bushings for the lower control arm (no upper arm on 3rd gens), sway bar, idler arm (usually sold as a new idler arm w/bushing), and of course the strut mount bearing/bushing up top.

BTW I'd MUCH rather change struts/springs on a 4th gen than a 3rd (safer and easier)...though its a good idea to spray some PB Blaster on all the bolts ahead of time. Changing just the struts on a 3rd gen is easy and pretty safe though.

 

So on a 4th gen the struts/springs are comboed to gether, do they then use an upper A frame. I know one thing, 4th gen have a better ride, (might be giving up some handling) but they ride a little better.

 

Yes, 4th gens have an upper a-arm. I'd agree with your statements about ride and handling, since I have owned both.

 

Yeah my best friend brought a 2002 brand new direct order fully loaded v6 w/ RS package, racing strips, and every option you can get. Driving on the same roads that i do I notice it rides better but also isn't a 4th gen like 500 lbs lighter too.

 

90Firebird, are they the original shocks/struts?

If the answer is yes, replace them. Don't even question it, just replace 'em; they're dead.

 

tomp,
i couldnt tell you if they are the originals, just the fact that they are what came with the car when i got it, and the sypmtoms i listed above... would my best option be to go to pep boys and have them install a set? i dont trust myself with work like this, so a do-it-yourself answer isnt really gonna help me. keep in mind that i'm a poor high school student. thanks

 

I'd go to Sears when they have like free shock installation and 50% off strut installation. They put on Monroe shocks there and who knows, they might use your parts. The one guy there told me that deal is the best they got. For the SensaTrac shocks and struts he told me it was around $200 parts and labor which did not seem bad at all.

 

90firebird, I would say you can pretty much look at the front end of a Camaro and tell if it needs struts or not. I know before I put mine on a while back that the front end was noticably hanging down but now it's level with the back.

 

i just did all mine a few months ago , i went with monroe sensatrack i love um. work great have no problems with them.

 

I want to hold out for Bilsteins =) But I am not sure which setting of Bilsteins I should get.

 

mine are the gabriel/sprinfield. lifetime replacement

 

I have some sort of Gabriels in the back and the front struts have no real markings other than warnings telling me not to incinerate the thing It makes me wonder if the fronts are stock but those would be some heck of a pair of struts, cause I have almost 161k miles on them.

 

when I changed the rear shocks on the 76 bBonnie I had for two yrs, the outer casing were spiral & said "Made in Dayton". fudgers were the origonals

 

Hmm well it could be worse, it could have said made in China. Personally I just won't buy anything for my car unless I REALLY have to that is from countries other than the USA, Canada, Mexico, and some European countries in that order.

 

I have Bilstein HD shocks and struts on mine and it handles awesome! I figure also if the Firebird Firehawks and Camaro SS's use them, then they can't be too shabby

 

I'm dreaming to obtain Bilsteins/Koni's for my Firebird.

ALL THOSE WITH GABRIELS RAISE YOUR HANDS
YEAH or NAH
Fair value for the price?
Performance?
Harsh or very good compromise?
Feel ya need new springs now, too?
BUY AGAIN or recommend to a friend?

Others, cast your vote, too UNLESS ya got a set of Koni's or Bilsteins ya willing to part with!
I'll trade ya a Camaro CAI + cash!

 

If you have a friend with an SS who doesn't want their rear shocks you could take them =)

 

Got the gabriel red ryders on the rear of the 83. At 10 bucks a shock they are a fair value. They are a little harsh when hitting a pothole but otherwise okay. I probably do need new springs but I do recommend the shocks.

My dad installed the Gabriel Gas shocks on the GTO about 12 years ago. They ride nice and ar less harsh. However, he also got new springs. His are black in color.

 

If you have a friend with an SS who doesn't want their rear shocks you could take them =)

PLEASE EMAIL ME FOR QUESTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd email you yet no spot for that!

 

All the more reason to do it yourself!

 

Let me ask you all this, do you even torque your shock and strut mounting bolts to the specified torque? Also how many of you have access to air tools?

 

JoshDT91
When I did front struts with a friend, they were air wrenched on.
Zip off & zipped back on.
PLEASE Email me about those shocks ya offered, glad to help take them. PRIMO! SO BUENO!
The backs shocks ya can hand wrench, but not the fronts.
That's a hugh nut to crack (so she said!)

I have air tools & access to air tools, also.
I like hand tools, so quiet until
I hurt my knuckles!
JoshDT91
Please send an email to me, thanks.
I used to live in Arlington & worked in Fiarfax Circle.

 

KED85

I was just making a suggestion about the rear shocks on an SS. I don't have any of those shocks unfortuneately. Although I have a nice list of sites where you can get a whole set of bilsteins for under $400 brand new. CamaroZ28.com has some carparts.com coupons most of which do not work but I think one works for 10% your total.

 

Misunderstood.
Back to Gabriels

 

I hope you still pulled the lower two bolts to 160 lb ft???

The best thing to use back here is a Cresant (sp?) ratchet wrench where the box end is a ratchet, that way you can hold the top with 1/4 inch wrench. Remember don't let the strut spin, a lot you will damage it inside.

 

I'm no longer friends with the guy.
Yeah they went on tight, tho.
I'm gonna do back brake line replacement at same time as back shocks.
Might a well.
Anyone know what size the bleed screw is onback brake drum?
8MM Socket work?

 

either 7 or 8. use 1/4" deep well. I also recomend teflon tape when resealing, helps keep 1-man-pump from sucking air from around the loose bleeder screw.


GAS_RYDER G56700 LLT $28.99 ea
GAS_RYDER 69676 LLT $19.99 ea

Autozone Prices here, 45431 zip.

 

Anyone know where to get the dust caps for the bleeder screws? When I had a shop put on my Earls steel braided lines they couldn't find anything to put on them. They were so old they just cracked when you touched them. The front caliper caps were fine but the rear drums were just a cracked up mess.

 

If it's got a torque spec, there's a 99 in 100 chance that I use it. A few things offhand that I don't torque: engine accessory mounting brackets (alt bracket to block, etc), spark plugs, end links, and REAR upper shock mount. Rear shock mount should be tightened just enough to give the rubber bushings a little bit of squish- you don't want to flatten the bushings out, which is what the 15 ft/lb torque setting will do.

I have an air tool set... the compressor and tools are all Campbell-Hausfeld. Never use them to give the final tighten to any nuts/bolts; use them mainly for disassembly. I won't use them for engine disassembly either; I read that it's likened to shelling a walnut with a hammer. You get the job done, but don't know what to look for when you're done! Sometimes you can "feel" a problem by undoing the bolt by hand... one example being head bolts; if all the head bolts except one come out easy, you might have had a blown head gasket.

As to bleeder screws; be careful when using teflon tape on the threads, there's a remote chance that a tape shard can get into the fluid. You can use silicone (dielectric, not the gasket-maker!) instead. Found my bleeder screw caps at Pep Boys, in a metal drawer, in their hardware aisle. The same metal drawers held o-rings and carb return springs and c-clips and a bunch of other miscellaneous stuff.

If you want new, pre-bent tubing, http://www.classictube.com sells brake lines for our cars. You can buy either the whole set (front and front-to-rear and rear), or buy each set separately. You can even get the lines in stainess!!! I might buy the rear brake line set in stainless when I put the 3.73/posi/disc axle back under the car.

Did you guys see the bleeder screw vibrator from http://www.brakebleeder.com ? (Same place I bought my V-12 from!) I'll have to pick one up one of these years. I think Snap-On makes one too, but I'm sure it's $3000 or something.

 

TomP,

I wish there was a PepBoys around in that case, I just have some Advance and AutoZone stores and like a mom and pop kinda place in town. The shop that did my brake lines was like yeah uhm we cannot find caps for it. I guess they just didn't look hard enough.

 

Weird. A GM dealer should be able to dig some up for you; and there's Gotta be somewhere online that sells them. They're cheap enough... I think I paid under 25 cents for each cap.

[edit] Some links from google.com:

http://www.kevinscycleracing.com/brakes.htm
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc7.shtml (good tip!)

Can't seem to find any others... hopefully a GM dealer could look 'em up. If you get a part #, let us know! http://www.gmpartsdirect.com might charge pennies for 'em... it might be good for me to have some spares around... like, 20 or 30 of 'em.

 

I asked GMpartsdirect for the part # for those caps for the bleeder screw with drums and they had no listing for it. I have the GM Parts and Illustration CD and well there is no listing on there either for it. The worst thing I thought if I could not find them would be just to cover it with silicone rubber and let it cure before driving but ehh you might get some junk in the bleeder then I am not sure. But of course the nice bleeder caps would be the best. I went through the junk yard and saw a rear axle for a V6 third gen and the caps looked just like mine before they just crumbled apart. I think Classic Industries have some that look good but I really hate to order something to simple and cheap online.

I was at Advance once looking for a distributor gasket and luckily the guy in there knew what I was looking for and went through some drawers in back. Maybe they got some in back at Advance like Pep Boys.

 

I obtained my Gabriels todays.
I had installed the rear shocks for free as part of a Pep Boys promotion.
How difficult to do the fronts struts?
I recall NOT NEEDING A spring compressor, just a big air wrench. And a jack to hold the suspension in place.
I recall two bottom bolts off, then undo the top nut, replace said items with the new ones, true?
THANKS ALL FOR SUGGESTIONS!
Really wish they could have been Bilsteins or Koni's but........

 

those two bottom nuts & bolts are the worst. either get yourself an impact wrench, or the bouncing & kicking that 2' 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar like I was.

 

Do I need use a spring compressor?
OR just hold lower a-arm with the HD Floor jack?
ONLY CHOICE IS AIR IMPACT GUN.
Set on stun.
I'll spray those bolts now!
I don't recall using a spring compressor.