I thought I read something on this a while back but a search didnt produce info so forgive me if this topic has come up not to long ago. but...For the past few weeks I come out to find 'Lake Comaro' under my car. Put her up on the ramps to take a look and it look like its come out of the rear seal but I think I read something before about this being confuse with a leaky disributor O-ring. Is this true, because I think an O-ring is much easier to change and would much rather do that. Thx for any help

 

i would go ahead and replace the oring in the distributer and see what happens. After all its cheap to do. There was also a post with part #'s for a gasket that goes between the block and distributer. They have it at a local part store but its not shown in the computer for 3rd gens.

To see if its the rear seal, u can remove the flywheel cover and look if u can see the leak a little bit better.

 

That's not a bad idea. If there is oil everywhere on the bottom, like the y-pipe, then it may be that o - ring.

 

This is a real PITA project & here's why.
When ya pull the distributor ya really need to rebuild the distributor.
Which is a bloody simple project.
Do a search you should be able to come up with it.
I wrote it about 1/2 year ago or so.
WHEN ya install the distributor ya add a small block chevy distributor to the installation. Coat both sides of gasket with a bit of black RTV & be done with the leak.
While back there, enjoy the intake maifold PVC hose (replace it, 1/2" heater hose, short section)!
While you're at it, may as well replace your timing chain if it's over 75,000 miles & never touched.
You'll regain so much lost pep, you'll be very pleased. Worthwhile projects.
Gasket cost is only $1-3. Chain cost is a bit more.

 

Easy check; with the engine cool, feel way back behind the distributor. Feel "down" until you get to the base shaft of the distributor, and see if you find oil. (You'll probably have to lay over the fender to get your hand far enough behind the distributor.)

The oil drips from the intake manifold down the back of the block, and drips around the rear of the crankshaft. So if you pull the flywheel inspection cover and look "up", you'd see oil around the back of the crank, and think "uh oh, rear seal."

It's a one-inch inside diameter o-ring, by the way.

 

Also make sure the thickness is the same or the o-ring won'd seat.

I got mine at the dealer for a few bucks so I didn't have to worry about maching it up by eye ball which can come back to bite you.

 

Thanks ked85 for the artical. Im looking forward to this little project. Quick question though...lets say I have $$ burning a hole in my pocket(hopfuly in the near future), would it increase performance to install an after market IM (like holley 891-103 i think thats the one) once the distributor is out or even a performance distributor, if they make them for our motors?

 

Sorry not made for our cars but KED85 can tell you all the part numbers to make your stock one into the same thing.

 

Luke, yep, you've got the right part # for that Holley module. Don't forget a new pick-up coil, too; they can't be made "high performance" so a stock AC/Delco one is fine. Be sure to clean up the "air gap" using a feeler gauge for valve lash; get all the pole pieces to be the same distance (not touching!) away from the reluctor magnet.

 

About the only thing I can tell ya....
I went thru 6 Ignition Control Modules
My alternator was frying them big time.
SO as an authority on ICMS.
NO BF DIFF 'tween one name and another.
Honest.
NO diff at all.
Get one that works & MAKE SURE
ya
clear out the vent holes on the distributor base
and
USE A REALLY GOOD GREASE
Permatex Dielectric grease is a very good grease on the module base.
Enjoy your project
It is a very worthwhile project.

 

Did you ever use the Holley module? A few on this V6 forum have tried it, with no problems...

 

I confess as not that brand nor accel.
I took what ever the stores had at that moment.
IF I recall others have tried those brands & reported no difference between stock & the name brand.
I couldn't tell any different except the car ran again.
What it comes down to is that the stock set up from GM is quite decent.

 

If the car is leaking a lot of oil, it may not be the distributor seal OR the rear main. 2.8s (and I assume all GM 60 degree V6s) have a three bolt cover over the cam on the rear of the block. When it goes out, you have a MASSIVE oil leak. By all means address other leaks (the dist is a common source), but if you find oil dripping out of the flywheel inspection cover its probably the cam seal. When Redraif's started leaking, it dropped over a quart in less than 30 minutes.

Pull the trans, remove the flywheel, and you'll see oil dripping down from it. Get a new gasket from GM (about $3 I think); parts stores don't even list it seperately. You don't want to try to make one either, it has steel reinforcements built in around the bolt holes. Its easy enough to replace the rear main seal while you're in there, just to be safe.

 

Hey dude,
When we get done with my TA, lets slap on new valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, and the dist gasket, (just for the hell-of-it), to eliminate all possibilities. If it still leaks, lets have fun pull'n a tranny, and doing the rear main seal.

 

My little tip on the distributor seal leak thing - there is a little depression in the block casting just below the dist. Most times the oil will pool there then run down. If you can look down there with a light you can see it ... or feel back there - if you stick your finger in a puddle of oil, its the O ring.

Wasn't Motor Oil, Olive Oil's (Popeye's girlfriend) brother?
I think he was the mechanic of the family.