wont idle properly
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 64
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From: chicago
Car: 1985 camaro
Engine: mpfi 2.8 v6 hopefully soon to be 350
wont idle properly
ok i hope someone can help me here
if i open the throttle slighlty when starting and running the car it runs perfectly but if i dont it will barely start and then die
any thoughts?
if i open the throttle slighlty when starting and running the car it runs perfectly but if i dont it will barely start and then die
any thoughts?
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 344
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From: Vermont
Car: 1986 W69 Special Edition
Engine: 2.8/ECM/Int/Exh
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Sounds like it could be a bad/stuck IAC motor. (Idle Air Control)
TomP is the resident "expert"... Maybe he can chime in here...
TomP is the resident "expert"... Maybe he can chime in here...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
I'd agree there...I'd try the IAC first. What year is your car...85? The 85 IAC assembly is different than the one I'm used to, which is 90-92 and a few years in the later 80's I think, but... On the passenger side of your throttle body, see all that sensor and doo-dad crap? There are probably some Torx screws holding the IAC in there. Remove them and wiggle it out...there's an o-ring in there so be careful not to damage that, otherwise you'll have to find another one or buy another IAC assembly. Slide the sucker out and get some carb cleaner and a rag and clean the pintle and all around the spring. Be careful not to turn it in a way as to release the lock-down....that spring is under high tension and will send that tip flying for miles to never be seen again. After you've cleaned it as thoroughly as you can, put it back in and reconnect. Might be a good idea to disconnect the battery for 30 secs and reconnect to reset the computer so it can adjust to the sensor cleaning too, but I'm not sure if it will really have any bearing or not so try it without resetting first.
Keep in mind, that's only cleaning it to remove buildup and allow the assembly to open and close more freely...if there's something wrong with the IAC's components themselves or it's screwed up beyond repair, well, you'll have to replace it. But this is all assuming that the IAC valve is the problem....it might not be!
So all it takes is one gas tap and you're good for the rest of the drive? No stalling or anything? A sticky IAC will usually cause stalls or near-stalls during deceleration and braking....
Keep in mind, that's only cleaning it to remove buildup and allow the assembly to open and close more freely...if there's something wrong with the IAC's components themselves or it's screwed up beyond repair, well, you'll have to replace it. But this is all assuming that the IAC valve is the problem....it might not be!
So all it takes is one gas tap and you're good for the rest of the drive? No stalling or anything? A sticky IAC will usually cause stalls or near-stalls during deceleration and braking....
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 1
From: ****SoCal, USA****
You'll need this.
Follow the map
1985 is a one year stand alone design.
Fix with 1/2" THICK SIDE WALL heater hose (motor PVC hose to plastic PVC hose), 5/16" windshiled wiper hose for the thinner plastic hose patch job.
Enjoy the results.
AFTER ya find/patch the cracked hose, then start in on other varibles.
Follow the map
1985 is a one year stand alone design.
Fix with 1/2" THICK SIDE WALL heater hose (motor PVC hose to plastic PVC hose), 5/16" windshiled wiper hose for the thinner plastic hose patch job.
Enjoy the results.
AFTER ya find/patch the cracked hose, then start in on other varibles.
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