i replaced my timing chain, wow did it make a huge difference!! i also got the intake and all that cleaned out with a cleaner( it works, the company showed me pics of before and after in my engine w/ a boroscope). the whole induction system is all cleaned out now. the only thing i have a bit of a problem with is my idle takes a bit to come down to normal idle speed. it sits at 2000 rpms and slowly comes down. as it warms up it comes down faster but still isnt right. its a manual trans so when i stop and put it in neutral it takes a bit. would this have something to do with the IAC or TPS or what?

 

It could have a lot to do with both of those things. But for a simple start, I would check your throttle return spring and make sure it's not sticking at all. Check the tech articles for setting the TPS and whatnot and see if that helps your problem out.

 

On my car I had that problem for a while, I just couldn't get the idle down below about 1100. It turned out that the Throttle Return Spring was going bad, so I went down to Pep Boys, bought a $6 carb return spring set, installed it by hooking it to the intake manifold with an elbow and right into the hole that the TV cable for the Auto trans hooks in. Fixed my problem right up. If you want, I can post a picure of what it looks like for you.

 

ive already got a throttle return spring on it and its not more than a year old. thats not the problem. the idle does eventually get down to like 700 or around there but it takes up to 30 seconds to get there.

 

If you rev the motor for a second, does the idle drop back down like it's supposed to or does it stay up high? (high as in the high idle speed you refer to....)

 

it drops, but slowly.

 

maybe a lazy IAC motor. if there is gunk inside where the pintl actually enters the motor part of the peice, it'll be slow when it moves. It's not good to spray the cleaner directly into it, so you might have to replace it, there cheap...only like $12 or so.

 

Last I checked, an IAC valve was like $28....which is why I bought a can of carb cleaner (heavier-duty than TB cleaner), yanked the sucker out, and BLASTED it...wiped it down nice and good...looked nearly brand new when I was done with it. Just avoid getting any into sensitive electronics and crap.. It might just help ya. Just NEVER EVER get carb cleaner into the engine. Bad, bad things happen. And if it's too nasty to fix that way, or you break it cleaning it...well..DAP, Autozone, etc. carry IAC valve and sensor assemblies....very easy to replace. Not sure if they include a new O-ring with them..probably...but keep the old just in case. Just...dont clean it unless you have a backup car to drive you to pick up a replacement. Because if your IAC valve dies, chances are your car will not operate worth a crap!

 

ok this is sort of off topic i think but here goes
my idle keep's dropping almost as if the engine is about to shut off and 2 out of 5 times she struggles to turn over when cold.

this is all new and only started about 2 weeks ago i was however able to pull a code 35 off of the computer but i'm not really sure what i should do

 

Code 35?? That's a weird one... Look on the back of your plenum where your throttle blade is...on the opposite side of your idle stop screw that keeps the throttle from closing completely. There should be a small metal plate or something covering that hole so you can't access that screw. If there's not, then the idle screw has been messed with, which would explain that code I think...but for it not to throw it all the time at idle makes no sense... Sounds like the computer's just throwing a 'blame code' to me. Are there any other symptoms, such as stalling, rough idling, etc.? And by 'struggles to turn over'...do you mean the car is unwilling to TURN OVER, or it doesn't want to START? Unwilling to turn over means a bad starter, weak battery, or bad connection to the solenoid. The starting problem....could be weak ignition or weak fuel system. If you can put a fuel pressure gauge on it and check, you could eliminate any potential fuel delivery issues right off the bat. Ignition-wise...how are your plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and your coil? You can do a screwdriver test for the coil, but I always recommend being safe and buying the ignition tester....it's got an end fitting exactly like a spark plug, so you just attach a plugwire from the cap to it, attach the ground clip somewhere, dial in the proper gap, and crank the car over and observe the spark. Found mine in the assorted tools section at Discount/Advance Auto Parts.

Other possibilities: sticky IAC valve, TPS.