V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

Slow off the line

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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 06:29 PM
  #1  
onoj5's Avatar
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From: College Park, Maryland
Slow off the line

My car acts pretty strange. In first gear right as i take off it goes pretty slow but as soon as i hit second i take off. What can i do to make it faster through first?
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 09:06 PM
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Doward's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Lose some weight

is it wheelspin, or just not picking up? I'd say some 3.73s would help it... seriously, losing some weight from the car will, too.
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 09:08 PM
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I got about 2-3 seconds of spinning then it goes but all the way through first it is pulling slow then when second hit wham it flys. I was thinking about 3:73 they would b hella nice do u know where and what to get that will fit my car. I got 3.23 right now,.
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 09:38 PM
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and my 0-60 time is horrible it is about 10 seconds
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 09:49 PM
  #5  
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From: walla walla, wa
Car: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Engine: 4G63T
Transmission: 5 speed
how about a 2400 stall converter, that would bypass the off idle area known as "the no torque zone"
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 09:52 PM
  #6  
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Your wheel spin now isn't helping, either... Sounds to me more like you're still spinning through 1st, and 2nd plants 'em to the ground.
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 10:03 PM
  #7  
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From: College Park, Maryland
They spin if they are good and cold but if i warm them up they don't spin and it just pulls off slow.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 12:36 AM
  #8  
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
So many possibilities, so little time. So it pulls slow ALL the way through first, just not in the lower rpm range? Cause that shouldn't be anything with the motor if it's not affecting 2nd gear cause the motor revs up the rpms either way...doesn't matter what gear you're in. HOWEVER, common low rpm power loss instigators are:

* rich mixture...this could be caused by broken injectors, bad O2 sensor, bad MAF/MAP, faulty/improperly calibrated TPS, etc. The O2 sensor is the cheapest of the bunch and adds to gas mileage as well as power. You can use the car to tell if you're running lean or rich by doing the old paperclip in the ALDL unit trick...jumper the A and B ports like you would to pull trouble codes, but THEN start the car and drive it. It will blink the check engine light in patterns indicating your operating conditions: rich, stoichiometric, and lean. I forget the patterns though. I think rich is like more light on than light off...stoich is equal between light on and light off, and lean is less light on and more light off. But don't quote me on that. Also, an old O2 sensor WILL make this reading incorrect so you might not want to trust it unless you know the sensor is new.

* timing chain stretch... If the timing chain is old, it's probably got a certain amount of stretch to it. If you slam the gas, the chain is loose which means the crank and the cam don't work exactly on time as they should...they're slightly out of time...which makes for very poor throttle response and off-the-line times. As the rpms rise up, the chain gets more tense, I figure from centrifugal forces, and tightens up, thus restoring proper crank/cam timing and regaining power.

* tranny slippage... 'Nuff said. Hope not. Lol...

That's all I feel like typing right now..
It's 2am and I STILL have a hangover from LAST night... Later....

Last edited by Nixon1; Jun 30, 2003 at 12:38 AM.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 11:03 PM
  #9  
TekViper's Avatar
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From: NJ
Car: 1990 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 3.1L v6
Transmission: Automatic
180lbs of torque stock is your problem
and wheelspin? your right rear tire must be bald.
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Old Jun 30, 2003 | 11:53 PM
  #10  
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
Originally posted by Nixon1
* rich mixture...this could be caused by broken injectors, bad O2 sensor, bad MAF/MAP, faulty/improperly calibrated TPS, etc. The O2 sensor is the cheapest of the bunch and adds to gas mileage as well as power. You can use the car to tell if you're running lean or rich by doing the old paperclip in the ALDL unit trick...jumper the A and B ports like you would to pull trouble codes, but THEN start the car and drive it. It will blink the check engine light in patterns indicating your operating conditions: rich, stoichiometric, and lean. I forget the patterns though. I think rich is like more light on than light off...stoich is equal between light on and light off, and lean is less light on and more light off. But don't quote me on that. Also, an old O2 sensor WILL make this reading incorrect so you might not want to trust it unless you know the sensor is new.
This interests me, can anyone else second this method of testing?
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Old Jul 1, 2003 | 02:14 AM
  #11  
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From: walla walla, wa
Car: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Engine: 4G63T
Transmission: 5 speed
I've done that before.
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Old Jul 1, 2003 | 05:17 AM
  #12  
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Nope not bald tires. I got got new Bfgoodrich tires. Well there where new about 3 months ago.
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