Slow off the line
Slow off the line
My car acts pretty strange. In first gear right as i take off it goes pretty slow but as soon as i hit second i take off. What can i do to make it faster through first?
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Lose some weight 
is it wheelspin, or just not picking up? I'd say some 3.73s would help it... seriously, losing some weight from the car will, too.

is it wheelspin, or just not picking up? I'd say some 3.73s would help it... seriously, losing some weight from the car will, too.
I got about 2-3 seconds of spinning then it goes but all the way through first it is pulling slow then when second hit wham it flys. I was thinking about 3:73 they would b hella nice do u know where and what to get that will fit my car. I got 3.23 right now,.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,827
Likes: 1
From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Your wheel spin now isn't helping, either... Sounds to me more like you're still spinning through 1st, and 2nd plants 'em to the ground.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,931
Likes: 0
From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
So many possibilities, so little time. So it pulls slow ALL the way through first, just not in the lower rpm range? Cause that shouldn't be anything with the motor if it's not affecting 2nd gear cause the motor revs up the rpms either way...doesn't matter what gear you're in. HOWEVER, common low rpm power loss instigators are:
* rich mixture...this could be caused by broken injectors, bad O2 sensor, bad MAF/MAP, faulty/improperly calibrated TPS, etc. The O2 sensor is the cheapest of the bunch and adds to gas mileage as well as power. You can use the car to tell if you're running lean or rich by doing the old paperclip in the ALDL unit trick...jumper the A and B ports like you would to pull trouble codes, but THEN start the car and drive it. It will blink the check engine light in patterns indicating your operating conditions: rich, stoichiometric, and lean. I forget the patterns though. I think rich is like more light on than light off...stoich is equal between light on and light off, and lean is less light on and more light off. But don't quote me on that. Also, an old O2 sensor WILL make this reading incorrect so you might not want to trust it unless you know the sensor is new.
* timing chain stretch... If the timing chain is old, it's probably got a certain amount of stretch to it. If you slam the gas, the chain is loose which means the crank and the cam don't work exactly on time as they should...they're slightly out of time...which makes for very poor throttle response and off-the-line times. As the rpms rise up, the chain gets more tense, I figure from centrifugal forces, and tightens up, thus restoring proper crank/cam timing and regaining power.
* tranny slippage... 'Nuff said. Hope not. Lol...
That's all I feel like typing right now..
It's 2am and I STILL have a hangover from LAST night...
Later....
* rich mixture...this could be caused by broken injectors, bad O2 sensor, bad MAF/MAP, faulty/improperly calibrated TPS, etc. The O2 sensor is the cheapest of the bunch and adds to gas mileage as well as power. You can use the car to tell if you're running lean or rich by doing the old paperclip in the ALDL unit trick...jumper the A and B ports like you would to pull trouble codes, but THEN start the car and drive it. It will blink the check engine light in patterns indicating your operating conditions: rich, stoichiometric, and lean. I forget the patterns though. I think rich is like more light on than light off...stoich is equal between light on and light off, and lean is less light on and more light off. But don't quote me on that. Also, an old O2 sensor WILL make this reading incorrect so you might not want to trust it unless you know the sensor is new.
* timing chain stretch... If the timing chain is old, it's probably got a certain amount of stretch to it. If you slam the gas, the chain is loose which means the crank and the cam don't work exactly on time as they should...they're slightly out of time...which makes for very poor throttle response and off-the-line times. As the rpms rise up, the chain gets more tense, I figure from centrifugal forces, and tightens up, thus restoring proper crank/cam timing and regaining power.
* tranny slippage... 'Nuff said. Hope not. Lol...
That's all I feel like typing right now..
It's 2am and I STILL have a hangover from LAST night...
Later.... Last edited by Nixon1; Jun 30, 2003 at 12:38 AM.
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
Originally posted by Nixon1
* rich mixture...this could be caused by broken injectors, bad O2 sensor, bad MAF/MAP, faulty/improperly calibrated TPS, etc. The O2 sensor is the cheapest of the bunch and adds to gas mileage as well as power. You can use the car to tell if you're running lean or rich by doing the old paperclip in the ALDL unit trick...jumper the A and B ports like you would to pull trouble codes, but THEN start the car and drive it. It will blink the check engine light in patterns indicating your operating conditions: rich, stoichiometric, and lean. I forget the patterns though. I think rich is like more light on than light off...stoich is equal between light on and light off, and lean is less light on and more light off. But don't quote me on that. Also, an old O2 sensor WILL make this reading incorrect so you might not want to trust it unless you know the sensor is new.
* rich mixture...this could be caused by broken injectors, bad O2 sensor, bad MAF/MAP, faulty/improperly calibrated TPS, etc. The O2 sensor is the cheapest of the bunch and adds to gas mileage as well as power. You can use the car to tell if you're running lean or rich by doing the old paperclip in the ALDL unit trick...jumper the A and B ports like you would to pull trouble codes, but THEN start the car and drive it. It will blink the check engine light in patterns indicating your operating conditions: rich, stoichiometric, and lean. I forget the patterns though. I think rich is like more light on than light off...stoich is equal between light on and light off, and lean is less light on and more light off. But don't quote me on that. Also, an old O2 sensor WILL make this reading incorrect so you might not want to trust it unless you know the sensor is new.
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