Well, let me start by listing my problems I had before the work was done....

1. Oil leak on the transmission (rear main seal went bad)

2. Clutch engaged extremely high on the pedal.

3. Had a bunch of electrical tape splices from the previous owner on the wiring harness...

4. 1500 rpm idle.

Ok heres the list I did. I took my time with all of it to make sure it was done right.

1. Replaced rear main seal (after much trouble with the transmission).

2. Put a new flywheel in (old one was warped).

3. New clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing.

4. Installed a new wiring harness.

5. Replaced the oil in the transmission.

Ok now the clutch engages just where I like it. I fixed the oil leak. Everything went great but I was kinda hoping the new harness would magically fix the idle problem. I can't figure it out, it just stays at 1500 and just slowly goes down to 1300 when the engine runs warm. I replaced the IAC and TPS, I just can't figure this one out. Im not sure how to test the coolant sensor. Yes I reset the IAC by the paperclip method, did it correctly a million times and it didn't work. I have no vacuum leaks, I had the shop do that. I am just out of ideas, someone please help me with this stupid high idle issue.

 

is it timed correctly?

 

Can't fix the timing ti'll I lower the RPMS....Otherwise when it gets lowered gotta time it again. Its not way off currently, I belive its at 8 BTC, i could be wrong, havn't checked in a while.

 

Adjust the minimum idle speed. I believe it's the same way as on a TPI car, I just can't remember the procedure.

 

Did that, its the screw in the back of the throttle body, I already did the procedure and shorted the diagnostic terminal, let it sit for 50 sec ti'll the IAC is shut and adjusted min idle to 550 rpms with IAC unplugged, plugged her back up and what do ya know....idles at the same damn area. I tried adjusting with IAC plugged in and I had the screw all the way back and didn't drop a bit.

 

Idea's anyone? Just throw them at me and i'll state whether its been tried...Im just so fed up, the car runs great except for this problem and its also upping my mpg =/

 

im in kinda the same boat w/ the idle problem. mine fluctuates a bit more than yours does though.

 

Actually, or at least on my L98, I could pretty much set my idle by adjusting my distributer, I just hook up a timing light that has a tach and turn distributer till the rpm gets where I want it. if you cant do that then ok it may only work for me.

 

Its probably that coolant sensor. I dont have a book handy but what its a $8 part.

 

Why would the coolant sensor cause this? Not doubting you, just curious before I shell out more $$$

 

What year/engine is the car, again?

 

1991 RS, 3.1 /w a T5

 

Back the dile screw all the way out. if you shut the Throttle blade by hand does the idle go down to about 800? if this is the case, your Throttle return spring is weak. Go down to pepboys and buy a $3 carb throttle return spring. I did this on my car, worked perfectly. you can see a pic of it on my cardomain site.

 

This is kind of like a cold start device I believe, it acts like a choke and lets more fuel into the combustion chambers causing a high idle. If I'm wrong someone let me know, because if I'm wrong I would also like to know the correct answer.

 

It's off topic, but where in Tx do you live? Just saw that below your user name.

 

Laredo...