LEE7's Build up
LEE7's Build up
Hey Lee , you have a great start on a bullet proof short block. What heads, cam, and valve train are you using? I'd like to help give you advise so you can lay down 500 hp. Should be no sweat.
wow, nice. A thread about me!
My heads are just going to be stock Iron heads with 1.74 intake and 1.42 Exhaust, they will be ported to the max. This wont be one of those wussy gasket match ports when you match the heads to the gasket, i will be matching the gasket to the heads! (well not entirely me, a freind of mine who works for Performance Automotive will be doing most of it, but i will be giving him suggestions and stuff.) The main problem me and him both saw with the stock heads is that the intake and Exhaust runners were both smaller than the actual valves themselfs. If the runners are smaller that the valves, there is no way the valves will ever flow to thier maximum potential. This is our main concern, and this is what we will fix first. The combustion chamber is already a good design, there are no "hot spots" in it that would lead to detonation, so all we will be doing is polishing it.
The intake will be ported to accomodate the larger intake runners. The weird thing about this is that intake manifold will barely even have to be touched, as they runners on that were already the correct size! The upper and lower intake plenums will both me matched to the intake manifold (which is matched to the heads). The throttle body will more than likely be replaced with a TPI intake from a 350 setup, even with a TB of 62mm (stock is 58), it would still be too small to flow enough air that the engine needs.
The camshaft, for now, will be a Crane Cams H-260-2 Hydraulic lifer setup, this cam is designed for MILD turbocharging, i hopefully will be doing alot more than "mild"
Later on down the line i will probably go for a Custom ground cam... maybe roller if i feel it is important enough. I have in my possesion some Summit 1.6:1 Stamped steel roller TIPPED (not true roller) rockers, i got these when i was planning on just making this engine a little more peppy, with no thoughts of adding more than 30hp. I am going to return them back to Summit and get some true roller rockers. The valve springs are Crane part number 99848 which are good for .480" lift @ 6500rpm.
Block is going to be a brand new block straight from GM, bored 0.010 over. Will be using a high volume oil pump with a green Webber spring installed to make it produce over 80psi of max oil pressure. If i can get a Moldex Forged crank for less than 1200$, i will go ahead and grab that. Or else i will just be getting a 981 crank and not rev it past 5500rpm. The main's are going to be studded with ARP studs, of course. (Same with the heads) The Pistons are custom forged Ross Pistons with a CR of 8.3:1, connecting rods are Crower Sportsman Thrubolt 6" Forged Steel.
The Turbo is a T04B25 with a 1.15 A/R Exhaust Housing and a .60 A/R Compressor housing. Exhaust will be custom made with 1.5" runners and will all empty into a collector right before the turbo, this will keep Exhaust temps high, which meens quicker turbo spool up. I have no clue about the wastegate yet, but i wont be skimping on that either. Intercooler is going to be the biggest i can find at the junkyard.
All of this will be handled thru a TEC³ Engine Control Unit, it will handle Ignition, Fuel, Boost and much more, completely replaceing the stock computer and wireing harness.
This is all that i can think of right now, hopefully i covered all the important stuff. I have about 90% of all the engine parts needed in order to actually build the engine and put it in the car. Im mainly waiting on the block, crank and heads, then it can hook it all up.
If there is anything else you, or anyone else wants to know, just feel free to ask. I am going to hide nothing about my setup, im not stingy like that. If someone wants to copy my setup exactly like i did it, go right on ahead.
My heads are just going to be stock Iron heads with 1.74 intake and 1.42 Exhaust, they will be ported to the max. This wont be one of those wussy gasket match ports when you match the heads to the gasket, i will be matching the gasket to the heads! (well not entirely me, a freind of mine who works for Performance Automotive will be doing most of it, but i will be giving him suggestions and stuff.) The main problem me and him both saw with the stock heads is that the intake and Exhaust runners were both smaller than the actual valves themselfs. If the runners are smaller that the valves, there is no way the valves will ever flow to thier maximum potential. This is our main concern, and this is what we will fix first. The combustion chamber is already a good design, there are no "hot spots" in it that would lead to detonation, so all we will be doing is polishing it.
The intake will be ported to accomodate the larger intake runners. The weird thing about this is that intake manifold will barely even have to be touched, as they runners on that were already the correct size! The upper and lower intake plenums will both me matched to the intake manifold (which is matched to the heads). The throttle body will more than likely be replaced with a TPI intake from a 350 setup, even with a TB of 62mm (stock is 58), it would still be too small to flow enough air that the engine needs.
The camshaft, for now, will be a Crane Cams H-260-2 Hydraulic lifer setup, this cam is designed for MILD turbocharging, i hopefully will be doing alot more than "mild"
Later on down the line i will probably go for a Custom ground cam... maybe roller if i feel it is important enough. I have in my possesion some Summit 1.6:1 Stamped steel roller TIPPED (not true roller) rockers, i got these when i was planning on just making this engine a little more peppy, with no thoughts of adding more than 30hp. I am going to return them back to Summit and get some true roller rockers. The valve springs are Crane part number 99848 which are good for .480" lift @ 6500rpm.Block is going to be a brand new block straight from GM, bored 0.010 over. Will be using a high volume oil pump with a green Webber spring installed to make it produce over 80psi of max oil pressure. If i can get a Moldex Forged crank for less than 1200$, i will go ahead and grab that. Or else i will just be getting a 981 crank and not rev it past 5500rpm. The main's are going to be studded with ARP studs, of course. (Same with the heads) The Pistons are custom forged Ross Pistons with a CR of 8.3:1, connecting rods are Crower Sportsman Thrubolt 6" Forged Steel.
The Turbo is a T04B25 with a 1.15 A/R Exhaust Housing and a .60 A/R Compressor housing. Exhaust will be custom made with 1.5" runners and will all empty into a collector right before the turbo, this will keep Exhaust temps high, which meens quicker turbo spool up. I have no clue about the wastegate yet, but i wont be skimping on that either. Intercooler is going to be the biggest i can find at the junkyard.

All of this will be handled thru a TEC³ Engine Control Unit, it will handle Ignition, Fuel, Boost and much more, completely replaceing the stock computer and wireing harness.
This is all that i can think of right now, hopefully i covered all the important stuff. I have about 90% of all the engine parts needed in order to actually build the engine and put it in the car. Im mainly waiting on the block, crank and heads, then it can hook it all up.
If there is anything else you, or anyone else wants to know, just feel free to ask. I am going to hide nothing about my setup, im not stingy like that. If someone wants to copy my setup exactly like i did it, go right on ahead.
damn thats some nice portwork. He really downsized that vane thing... i was going to make mine a little smaller, but not that much. I guess i should make mine that small now that i know its a good idea.
I think my project will probably have to take a major hold. I just got a great deal on a 78 25th Aniversery Edition Vette for $10,000
I may keep it, or I may fix whatever might be wrong with it and resell it for more than i bought it. (like in the $5000+ range)
The car is worth ALOT more than 10,000, which is the main reason i bought it. Great deal, and a deal like this is pretty rare.
Anyways, the car i just bought:
I think my project will probably have to take a major hold. I just got a great deal on a 78 25th Aniversery Edition Vette for $10,000
I may keep it, or I may fix whatever might be wrong with it and resell it for more than i bought it. (like in the $5000+ range)
The car is worth ALOT more than 10,000, which is the main reason i bought it. Great deal, and a deal like this is pretty rare.
Anyways, the car i just bought:
Last edited by Lee7; Aug 10, 2003 at 04:18 PM.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 1
From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by Lee7
The throttle body will more than likely be replaced with a TPI intake from a 350 setup, even with a TB of 62mm (stock is 58), it would still be too small to flow enough air that the engine....
If i can get a Moldex Forged crank for less than 1200$, i will go ahead and grab that.
The throttle body will more than likely be replaced with a TPI intake from a 350 setup, even with a TB of 62mm (stock is 58), it would still be too small to flow enough air that the engine....
If i can get a Moldex Forged crank for less than 1200$, i will go ahead and grab that.
As for the crank, I would sure greatly appreciate any future info you can acquire about it. I am assuming that their blueprint is a 3.31 stroke? Only other caution I have for you is are you using a 3.4 block- they are a much stronger casting. You are going to have an enormous amount of pressure on the main bearings with the boost.
Also- Supersix has acheived 1.77" intake ports and has a 1.8" intake valve option for optimum flow.
Originally posted by AGood2.8
Stock TB is 52mm, not 58mm. Forced induction on the 62 would be plenty- besides, your upper intake plenium will not handle a larger bore in the neck area.
As for the crank, I would sure greatly appreciate any future info you can acquire about it. I am assuming that their blueprint is a 3.31 stroke? Only other caution I have for you is are you using a 3.4 block- they are a much stronger casting. You are going to have an enormous amount of pressure on the main bearings with the boost.
Also- Supersix has acheived 1.77" intake ports and has a 1.8" intake valve option for optimum flow.
Stock TB is 52mm, not 58mm. Forced induction on the 62 would be plenty- besides, your upper intake plenium will not handle a larger bore in the neck area.
As for the crank, I would sure greatly appreciate any future info you can acquire about it. I am assuming that their blueprint is a 3.31 stroke? Only other caution I have for you is are you using a 3.4 block- they are a much stronger casting. You are going to have an enormous amount of pressure on the main bearings with the boost.
Also- Supersix has acheived 1.77" intake ports and has a 1.8" intake valve option for optimum flow.
1.77 intake ports huh? maybe i should see if my machine shop could give me like a 1.6 exhaust, that would benefit a turbo much more than a larger intake.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
What was the reason for not going 3.4? I still dont get it. Makes more sence to me anyway to build on the largest platform possible.
Too bad that Vett is ruined! The edlecrock crap makes it non original non original makes it worthless. I had a 73 for a short time was stock upgraded the heads and had to change them back to numbers matching to make any profit.
Too bad that Vett is ruined! The edlecrock crap makes it non original non original makes it worthless. I had a 73 for a short time was stock upgraded the heads and had to change them back to numbers matching to make any profit.
Last edited by SSC; Aug 10, 2003 at 07:53 PM.
Originally posted by SSC
What was the reason for not going 3.4? I still dont get it. Makes more sence to me anyway to build on the largest platform possible.
Too bad that Vett is ruined! The edlecrock crap makes it non original non original makes it worthless. I had a 73 for a short time was stock upgraded the heads and had to change them back to numbers matching to make any profit.
What was the reason for not going 3.4? I still dont get it. Makes more sence to me anyway to build on the largest platform possible.
Too bad that Vett is ruined! The edlecrock crap makes it non original non original makes it worthless. I had a 73 for a short time was stock upgraded the heads and had to change them back to numbers matching to make any profit.
I would MUCH rather have a 400hp torque monster than an original underpowered 200hp POS.
also, i had to go with a 2.8 block because my pistons are for a 3.510" bore which were origionally going to go on my 2.8L, until there was a ridge on one cylinder that was not removed when we bored it out. The dude said he could taper the top half, but you would get alot of blowby on that one cylinder.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 1
From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by AGood2.8
As for the crank, I would sure greatly appreciate any future info you can acquire about it. I am assuming that their blueprint is a 3.31 stroke? Only other caution I have for you is are you using a 3.4 block- they are a much stronger casting. You are going to have an enormous amount of pressure on the main bearings with the boost.
As for the crank, I would sure greatly appreciate any future info you can acquire about it. I am assuming that their blueprint is a 3.31 stroke? Only other caution I have for you is are you using a 3.4 block- they are a much stronger casting. You are going to have an enormous amount of pressure on the main bearings with the boost.
Did you ever get an answer on the Moldex Forged crank- Any info?
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 185
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From: Shelby Twp., MI
Car: 84 Z28 / 91 Trans Am
Engine: LS1 / 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.09 / 2.73
i would use smaller than 1 1/2 inch tubes for the turbo headers either 1 3/8 or 1 1/4 aftermarket grand national turbo headers are 1 1/2 and have made 900 + horsepower. also exhaust valve and port size should be kept minimal (GN's have a 1.5 exhaust valve) you want the exhaust spooling the turbo not diluting the cylinder. also you do not want 80 psi of oil pressure it blows the seals in the turbo a good blueprinted high volume is good.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 1
From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by 614Streets
Yes he did. Look in the Dowards turbo thread.
Yes he did. Look in the Dowards turbo thread.
I have a friend that will spin down the cranktrigger portion of a 3.4 crank, internally balance it, and nitrate it for me at a cost of $250. (I supply the crank, of course)
i talked to little joe about the 60 v6 cranks. there made from solid billet 4340. the billet alone is $600 raw. figure in the massiev amount of machine work to rough in the crank. the kinf edgeing, then the grindeing. then the grinding, then nitriding, then final grinding and polishing. sure its exspesnvie but i can guarentee youll never break that puppy.
just telling you why that crank cost so much money thats all.
just telling you why that crank cost so much money thats all.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 1
From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by funstick
i talked to little joe about the 60 v6 cranks. there made from solid billet 4340. the billet alone is $600 raw. figure in the massiev amount of machine work to rough in the crank. the kinf edgeing, then the grindeing. then the grinding, then nitriding, then final grinding and polishing. sure its exspesnvie but i can guarentee youll never break that puppy.
just telling you why that crank cost so much money thats all.
i talked to little joe about the 60 v6 cranks. there made from solid billet 4340. the billet alone is $600 raw. figure in the massiev amount of machine work to rough in the crank. the kinf edgeing, then the grindeing. then the grinding, then nitriding, then final grinding and polishing. sure its exspesnvie but i can guarentee youll never break that puppy.
just telling you why that crank cost so much money thats all.
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