Some more questions.
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Some more questions.
1. Does anyone happen to have a pic of the underside of their front end, so I can see exactly what the air dam is supposed to look like? I bought all four pieces (P/N 10118485, 10118488, 10118489, and another I don't have right now), but there is a large hole left in the middle (10118488/89 are the side pieces), and I want to make darn sure that hole is supposed to be there, because I really can't afford to have it overheat again.
2. I need to know if there exists a different coolant mix that removes heat from the engine and dissipates it in the radiator better than just some off-brand 50-50 mix that you can buy for like $2.50 a gallon, and if there is, where do I get it, and also, where can I get some straight antifreeze, so I can make a 30-70 (water/antifreeze) mix?
3. Has anyone ever broken one of the studs on the exhaust manifolds and repaired it? Do I need a special drill or something to fit in that tight area? I really cannot get the driver's side manifold off becuase I can get only two/three bolts out even using all of the force I can on an extension to my ratchet handle, and I do not have a winch, nor the resources to obtain one to remove the engine so I can do it out of the car.
2. I need to know if there exists a different coolant mix that removes heat from the engine and dissipates it in the radiator better than just some off-brand 50-50 mix that you can buy for like $2.50 a gallon, and if there is, where do I get it, and also, where can I get some straight antifreeze, so I can make a 30-70 (water/antifreeze) mix?
3. Has anyone ever broken one of the studs on the exhaust manifolds and repaired it? Do I need a special drill or something to fit in that tight area? I really cannot get the driver's side manifold off becuase I can get only two/three bolts out even using all of the force I can on an extension to my ratchet handle, and I do not have a winch, nor the resources to obtain one to remove the engine so I can do it out of the car.
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
If you're talking about the studs that hold on the Y-pipe, then yes, I have broken and repaired studs on both sides. Is this the stud you're talking about, and which side is it on? Some bad news, you will have to take off the manifold. Some good news, if you use enough liquid wrench you will eventually be able to take the bolts out of the block. I'll give more information if you want.
Thread Starter
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Like I said, it's the driver's side, and if the lower A-arm was located just one inch towards the back of the car, then I wouldn't have any problems...
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
Ah yes, I see now that you said it was the driver's side. That's better than the passenger's side. But you still have to take the manifold off. I'm still assuming you're talking about the studs that hold the Y-pipe on to the manifold.
Use liberal amounts of liquid wrench by Gunk (not WD-40, that sucks). Don't assume you can get it off on the first try. Keep applying liquid wrench and trying to remove the bolts. Do it when the engine's hot. eventually it will come out. Use a 1/2" drive and impact sockets, but do not break the bolt. If it shears off level with the block, you're going to have a hell of a time repairing it.
Unfortunately the driver's side studs are harder to remove when broken off. If they are sheared off level with the manifold, you'll have to have it drilled out at a machine shop. If there's still some sticking out, use lots of liquid wrench and put the bolt in a bench vice and turn the manifold. Voila!
Use liberal amounts of liquid wrench by Gunk (not WD-40, that sucks). Don't assume you can get it off on the first try. Keep applying liquid wrench and trying to remove the bolts. Do it when the engine's hot. eventually it will come out. Use a 1/2" drive and impact sockets, but do not break the bolt. If it shears off level with the block, you're going to have a hell of a time repairing it.
Unfortunately the driver's side studs are harder to remove when broken off. If they are sheared off level with the manifold, you'll have to have it drilled out at a machine shop. If there's still some sticking out, use lots of liquid wrench and put the bolt in a bench vice and turn the manifold. Voila!
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Liquid wrench my nut!!
Go to wal mart. Buy PB Blaster. That stuff is liquid gold.
DRENCH the studs in it. Let it sit overnight. Come back in the morning, and shoot it again.
Wait a couple hours, and come back, and you'll be pulling the nut off with your fingers.
That's not a lie... I did that to my '77 Firebird with the rusted on exhaust bolts.
Go to wal mart. Buy PB Blaster. That stuff is liquid gold.
DRENCH the studs in it. Let it sit overnight. Come back in the morning, and shoot it again.
Wait a couple hours, and come back, and you'll be pulling the nut off with your fingers.

That's not a lie... I did that to my '77 Firebird with the rusted on exhaust bolts.
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Tell me where to find the stuff, and I'll buy it. I started with WD-40, but finding out it's junk, switched to Liquid Wrench, and findiong out again that that stuff is worse than WD-40, I went over to the local repair shop while my dad was in for inspection, and got him to buy me some Castle Liquid Torch. I guess that that stuff was too old to work, becuase the head mech at the shop swore by it, and it didn't do much.
The lower nut on the pass side won't budge, and I moved the y-pipe merely by taking out the upper stud altogether, nut and all. I guess that besides using oversized donuts, the idiot that put my exhaust together the last time neglected to tighten the pass side flange up all the way. 
BTW, since I took that typing class last year, I type even worse now than before. And it's usually with this PC too... I guess you should blame my computer maybe?
The lower nut on the pass side won't budge, and I moved the y-pipe merely by taking out the upper stud altogether, nut and all. I guess that besides using oversized donuts, the idiot that put my exhaust together the last time neglected to tighten the pass side flange up all the way. 
BTW, since I took that typing class last year, I type even worse now than before. And it's usually with this PC too... I guess you should blame my computer maybe?
Last edited by Maverick H1L; Sep 24, 2003 at 10:55 PM.
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Supreme Member
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
I guess you should try Doward's PB Blaster from Wal-Mart. Also, you are going to need new studs. Buy 2 packs of 3 Help brand studs from the parts store. Don't ask me why they put them in three packs.
Anyways, to screw the studs into the manifold, put both of the brass nuts on and tighten them against each other. Then just use the top one to screw in the stud and tighten it. Then take both nuts off. The brass nuts are awesome. At least I think they are brass. But they don't rust on, so if you have to take them off in the future they will come off. Use a little anti-seize just to "seal" the deal.
Is that what you were looking for?
Anyways, to screw the studs into the manifold, put both of the brass nuts on and tighten them against each other. Then just use the top one to screw in the stud and tighten it. Then take both nuts off. The brass nuts are awesome. At least I think they are brass. But they don't rust on, so if you have to take them off in the future they will come off. Use a little anti-seize just to "seal" the deal.
Is that what you were looking for?
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Well, I only broke the one stud. The other nut on the driver's side came off pretty easy with a TON of force, and I got the whole upper stud out of the pass side manifold. I probably am going to go out sometime in the next week and get myself a nut splitter for the other nut on the pass side, and a nut to replace it with. I think I might as well just use the stud that I removed as a regular bolt in the future. I just was thinking that maybe I could use Never-Seez on the nuts, but I figure that the studs are too high-temp for that to work...
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,111
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
Not true. Check out different brands of anti-seize. Some are very high temp and will work in this situation.
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Originally posted by camaro_junkie
I guess you should try Doward's PB Blaster from Wal-Mart.
I guess you should try Doward's PB Blaster from Wal-Mart.
Seriously guys, PB Blaster is liquid gold. I've never seen anything that simply breaks rust like this stuff does.
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Went to Walmart. I couldn't find it and neither could the salesperson. It's like they never heard of the stuff. There isn't even a place on the shelf for it. Is there anywhere else I can find the PB Blaster?
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Originally posted by Maverick H1L
Went to Walmart. I couldn't find it and neither could the salesperson. It's like they never heard of the stuff. There isn't even a place on the shelf for it. Is there anywhere else I can find the PB Blaster?
Went to Walmart. I couldn't find it and neither could the salesperson. It's like they never heard of the stuff. There isn't even a place on the shelf for it. Is there anywhere else I can find the PB Blaster?
PBblast PBpblaster one of them. walmart, kmart, autozone, murrays, forest city, andersons, meijers, just about anyhwere.
Looke near the wd-40 and its a kind of funky can. white yellow n red, old timy looking as it has stuff writen all over it.
Matt
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From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
I'll have to look when I go out tomorrow or Monday then. Didn't find it at Walmart-they had WD-40. Liquid Wrench, and that was about it.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
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