Ohh S***!
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
Ohh S***!
Ok bad stuff, i have thick oil in my coolant. There is however no coolant in my crankcase. WTF is goin on... i thought head gasket but you ussually get antifreeze in the crankcase if your head gasket goes. The oil comes back after ive flushed the system of antifreeze. Big problem? i cant afford a big problem... i need my car. help
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Big Problem 
Doesnt nesc mean you blew the head/gasket, could be somewhere in the block where the oil creates more pressure then the coolent system is creating.
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
how fast do you think this will kill her? I need her to last until i get enough to buy a camaro
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
ok it came to me it might be ATF in the coolant. My rad has some of that goop repair crap on the fins. I cant see the color of the crap in the antifreeze and it smells like antifreeze so i cant smell it possibility?
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From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
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yeah, very well could be ATF. The fluid runs into the radiator for cooling and if you have an internal leak in the radiator, then that's the problem. Sorry to hear about that man. Sucks.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
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Originally posted by 2_point8_boy
yeah, very well could be ATF. The fluid runs into the radiator for cooling and if you have an internal leak in the radiator, then that's the problem. Sorry to hear about that man. Sucks.
yeah, very well could be ATF. The fluid runs into the radiator for cooling and if you have an internal leak in the radiator, then that's the problem. Sorry to hear about that man. Sucks.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by 2_point8_boy
yeah, very well could be ATF. The fluid runs into the radiator for cooling and if you have an internal leak in the radiator, then that's the problem. Sorry to hear about that man. Sucks.
yeah, very well could be ATF. The fluid runs into the radiator for cooling and if you have an internal leak in the radiator, then that's the problem. Sorry to hear about that man. Sucks.
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
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The internally leaking rad sounds good to me, although I have a 5-speed. Taking the rad out and replacing it shouldn't be a very big or expensive job.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by DJsyclone
can't he just flush and refill the coolant for now and keep the ATF level up? that should buy some time if it's not a really bad leak. does that radiator stop leak stuff work? tried it on a Cavalier once
can't he just flush and refill the coolant for now and keep the ATF level up? that should buy some time if it's not a really bad leak. does that radiator stop leak stuff work? tried it on a Cavalier once
um.
think about this.
he probly has coolent in his automatic trans.......
would YOU drive your car with water in the trans?
i would have the trans powerflushed and refill it.
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
no coolant in the trans .. its nice and red still. Its also full. I cannot tell the color of the oil substance in my coolant, nor could i smell anything other then coolant. When it sat in the container it mixed togheter and made some thick dark green coolant that when i put a stick into the bottle it stayed on the stick
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From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
If you can't tell what color it is, it looks like anti-freeze, and smells like anti-freeze, then how do you know you have a problem? Drain the Radiator into a pan or something, let it sit overnight. Engine oil will rise to the top of the pan, while ATF will sink to the bottom, IIRC. Either way, even if the ATF does also coe to the top, you should be able to stick your finger in there and tell what it is when you pull it out. I'm betting that you have a leak inside the radiator so you are trading water and ATF between the two sections. have the radiator replaced, then have the radiator and trans flushed. That'll take care of it for ya.
Definetly drain rad & see what it looks like after it sits in the drain pan.
Yes power flushing would be highly recommended.
If you do not powerflush the tranny, THEN your problem may be expensive.
Seesm like you're at teh point where ya better attend to it soon.
I've gotten a good radiator at the local yard for $30.
MAKE SURE you score a V8 radiator, it's slightly larger & fits just as well as the V6 one!
Yes power flushing would be highly recommended.
If you do not powerflush the tranny, THEN your problem may be expensive.
Seesm like you're at teh point where ya better attend to it soon.
I've gotten a good radiator at the local yard for $30.
MAKE SURE you score a V8 radiator, it's slightly larger & fits just as well as the V6 one!
yeah, my money's on the radiator. I'd recommend just spending the $120 on a new radiator. They are plastic and prone to leakage, keep that in mind before making your decision to buy used.
How to scre teh PERFECT used wrecking yard radiator,
FIND all the options in the yard & pull them (it takes about two minutes to remove a wrecking yard radiator!).
Look outside for any brown stain marks indicating leakage.
NEXT look INSIDE for any dirty brown muddy signs in the two tubes.
IF that test passes, you find the perfect wrecking yard radiator.
ALSO before ya remove it, look at engine.
IF ya see fresh water pump or fresh hoses, also, you know the person "took care" of the cooling system.
Use a hack saw to remove the rad, just saw thru all lines/hoses! SECONDS OF WORK!
FIND all the options in the yard & pull them (it takes about two minutes to remove a wrecking yard radiator!).
Look outside for any brown stain marks indicating leakage.
NEXT look INSIDE for any dirty brown muddy signs in the two tubes.
IF that test passes, you find the perfect wrecking yard radiator.
ALSO before ya remove it, look at engine.
IF ya see fresh water pump or fresh hoses, also, you know the person "took care" of the cooling system.
Use a hack saw to remove the rad, just saw thru all lines/hoses! SECONDS OF WORK!
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