I just bought a Crate 350 for my 87 IROC and i was thinking about just swaping over the old TPI system to the new crate engine but i think i want to get new all new parts.

I want to keep the TPI so i would like to know what runners to get and stuff like that. From what i hear SLP is really good. Where can i buy them...how much are they? Where should i get the base from?

Sorry for such a general question but i really didnt know where to start. My end goal is that i want my 87 IROC to kill my 97 Saleen! I want it to handle better, have more power, and look better. ohh yeah...the camaro will only be used on the street...i might go to the track once in a while but not that offten. thanks for any help.

IF you need any more info let me know...ohh yeah forgot one thing...i dont know if this is going to be a problem or not but the crate (if my memory serves me right) is for a 93. It has the center bolt valve covers and i dont now if it is a 2 bolt or 4 bolt main.

Mike

 

Get the edlebrock base and save yourself some money. Stay away from tpis, their parts are typically good, but way way overpriced. Check the aftermarket review board for reviews of the different pieces. The engine being a 93 wont' be a problem, as long as it's not an lt1.

 

hey thanks for the reply...i found this...EDL-3860 on summitracing.com, it is $360...but it says it is for an 85-92 is this what i am looking for.

I realize i should probably calling edlebrock to get this answer but am just trying to find some prices right now...i will probably start this project next month.

thanks again for any help

 

before you go and buy anything you must make sure your new crate engine is a going to work. it cant be an lt1 block. if your engiine is a conventional center bolt block then you are ok. i am in the same boat your in righ tnow ihave a new engine on the stand and i am adding small parts here and there. i ported the **** out of my stcok tpi setup since i am on a budget right now. have you done any porting to your plenum? get an edelbrock base and AFPR to start. do yo uhave a budget at all on this project.

 

budget? look at my daily driver...does it look like i have a budget? J/K...dont mean to be aerogant(sp?) or anything....well..being that i have another car to drive...i kinda have a budget....i would like nice performance parts on the car...but i really dont want to go overboard (as far as price) i would like to get the best bang for the buck. and some stuff i am willing to pay more for.....for instance...right now on the engine it has a 12/12 warranty...when that goes out i would like to put some AFR heads on it. And when i do the heads i might change the rotating assy to something a little better... i only payed $600 for the new crate engine (like i said it is the GM goodwrench 350).

and what is AFPR? how much is that? pardon my ignorance but i just started on this project...as a matter of fact i just went to sears today and bought $3500 in tools so i can work on my car (they had the Craftsman Club Sale going on this week )

Mike

Here is my dialy driver...my rustang *ehhem* mustang. I want my Camaro to be faster, have better handleing, look better...just be a better car than this mustang...when i finish the Camaro...i will most likely sell the mustang.

 

a AFPR is a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. they cost about $60 for the tpi cars. if you dont really have to worry about a budget then i would put an intake and runners on with an AFPR. add some 3.73 gears too. once the warrenty wears out then change the cam and heads. if you choose your parts right then you should see your rustang in the rear view mirror. the SLP runners are pretty good but from what I hear you loose some low end torque with them. the gears should fix that problem though. if you plan on changing the heads and cam after the warrenty id over then i would wait until then to add anything to the engine. drive the car for a year and get use to how the engine operates and what kind of power it has. then, when you add everything you will see a huge improvment rather then add one thing at a time.

 

ok....that is what AFRP is...i know what it was just didnt know what the acranim (sp?) ment...ok yeah..ill get that.

and that is some REALYY good advise...i think i will do that...add alittle at a time!! ohh and as far as leaving my mustang in the dust...guess what i found out...(i read somehwere) that my carmaro's 350 (stock) has 225hp from the factory...and i just went onto Saleen.com and found out that my mustang is ALSO rated at 225hp !!! on 5 more hp than a normal GT!! that is messed up...ohh well. that is what i get for buying ford huh?

Mike

 

well actually you should buy the new Holley Stealth Ram, its suppose to be like a direct replacement for TPI, System and Its cheaper then getting a base plate, and runners. Base plate like $360 and $200+ for runners. The Holley Stealth Ram from Summit is like $279 for intake, and $190 for the fuel rail. Check it out at www.holley.com its under "whats new" Thats the set up I m going for.

 

i agree...a stealth ram would probably give you a lot more performance,but i guess there is no provisions for an egr valve so if you have to have egr for emmissions,youre out of luck.

 

This is a sweet intake setup but i would warn that it is not emissions compliant. if that is not an issue, by all means go for it. The GM crate motor has more ponys than your saleen. That crate is rated at 249hp with headers.

 

well unfortunatly my car has to be street legal...so it looks like it is the runner set up. but i am still going to look at the holley system....i really dont know what i want to do with the camaro...i would like it to be my project vehicle...i might take it to the track every now and then but i want it to be set up for the street. so for the street i want more low end torque right? but thanks for everyones input.

mike

ps..i am not going to buy anything for my camaro untill i know what i want to do with it.

 

Saleen ive been on this board for about two years now.... and ill tell ya how to make the power combo AND be very streetable and driveable... AND smoke the stang........

Intake Manifold-
First off dont get the "Edelcrock" manifold get the TPIS intake manifold..... the TPIS manifold IS actually the edelbrock one, but is take a few steps farther and fully ported and stuff....... Get it at www.tpis.com

Runners-
Get some AS&M siamized runners
http://www.azbcsstore.com/Merchant2/...gory_Code=afis

Plenum-
just read the tech articles on porting it, removing the EGR walls, AND MAKE SURE TO PORT MATCH IT TO THE SIAMIEZED ASM RUNNERS!!!!!


Throttle body- Keep the stock 48 mm, getting big TB's are a waste of $$$ and you lose low end RPM drivability and torque the new ram jet 502 gm perf. engine only has a 48 mm and it makes like 450 HP

Heads- AFR all the way sounds like you got that part pretty much figured out...... id get the AFR 200cc's

EXHAUST

Headers, either hooker long tubes, or SLP 1 3/4's www.slponline.com well you need smog legal so the slp 1 3/4"s are the way to go....... the SLP's also come with the 3" ypipe which is a plus!!

High flow 3" catco cat

Hooker 3" aluminum exhaust or if ya got lots of dough left id get the borla (mostly for the name )


Now all of this will make lots of power and all, but will by know means blow your saleen out of the water i doubt...........

You have to have something the equal out the odds...... that thing is gonna have to be a supercharger...... id get one with an intercooller though........ There is a STOCK TPI long tube set up not even ported with a supercharger and some custom work that runs low 9's........... its easy to force air though the tpi set up i guess


Now that you got the power you need the suspension to hook up and give it that killer mustang eater look........
Bell tech front drop spindles, eibach springs in the back
Here is a must Adjustable torque arm..... wanna so how good these things are thoroughly check this site out..... http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=201

and other stuff like a panhard bar, ohh yea dont forget subframe connectors especially if you have T-Tops,

Im getting tired any other questions, just ask????

 

Oh yea your short block will need a new cam....... id get the ZZ9 cam from TPIS or one of their other ones, one cam that almost always makes awesome power from TPI setup is the gm perf parts lt4 hot cam! its only like $160 i think to
You better visit ed wright at www.fastchip.com to!!!!

 

http://www.fasttoys.net/8292fbodyinduc.html

 

Ohh yeah after re-reading your post about your mustang having only 225 HP the roc would blow it out of the water W/O the supercharger!!!!

 

WOW...THANKS A LOT ImportsRsloths !!!

:hail: ImportsRsloths

that kind of info is EXACTLY what i was looking for!!

I am thinking about selling the Saleen and getting like an early 90s Blazer or Silverado 4x4...when (if) i do that i will have a whole lot more disposable income so i will be able to afford more stuff for my camaro.

a couple more questions..i actually ahve several options with my engine...and would like your input.

as you now i have the Crate 350...which is technically for a 93 buick roadmaster... (sorry dont know if it is a 2bolt or 4bolt main YET)

i also have the engine in the camaro that runs but it has a colapsed lifter or two and other than 110,000 miles on the engine it is fine. so i could rebuild it (again dont now if it is 2 or 4 bolt main)

i ALSO have another engine that was (if memory serves me right) a crate engine for a truck (it is a 350) and it IS a 4 bolt main...it has the whole rotating assy, heads and block and that is really about it. i think this engine had about 75,000 miles on it before something went in the top end...dont remember what but the guy was rich and said f*** it just get a new engine.

so...do you think i should spend the extra money and go with a 383? or just stick with the 350?

as far as internals...you mentioned nothing about whether i had to beef up the internals or not...should i go as far as a forged crake (like an eagle 4340 forged steal crank, forged connecting rods and JE flattop forged pistons)? any recommendations on each?

and back on the AFR heads...i was thinking about the 190 cc...195s at the most...then you said 200s??!! that sounds a little high...then again i am no expert...you obviosly now more about the camaro tha me? should i go with the 200s if i get a supercharger and 195 if i stay NA? or just get 200s no matter what?

one last thing...i realize i should ask this question is the trans section but here it goes....the only other problem with my camaro is the 700r4 is toast...i think it is rebuildable but it would be one serious rebuild (first gear is GONE, second is slipping BAD, and the fluid looks like engine oil that has been run in a diesel engine!!) so my question is: what should i do with the transmission...do a performance rebuild on the one i have in the camaro...buy one from a junk yard and do a performance rebuild...buy a NEW performance 700R4...or just go with a used T56 ( have read the tech article and i already know what is involved)

hmm...well i think that is it...and thank you again for all of your help.

Mike

p.s. i just got my PAW (performance automotive warehouse) catalog today...i am going to see if i can find some good 383 and 350 rebuild kits and stuff like that.

 

I wouldnt be too worried at all about it being a 4bolt or 2 bolt main!!!! id stick with the 350 shortblock in the car to tell ya the truth! about the AFR's.... I meant go 200 ONLY if you go supercharger........ and only go 190 if you go NA........ 190 heads might not flow as much as 195's or 200's but they have a higher velocity which makes more drivabilty and HP for a smaller cube na engine like a 350 or so......

I wouldnt worry about beefing up the internals and what not....... Your car your trying to beat only has 225 HP...... the iroc would have more than that with a set of k & n's ...... you said you werent really even planning on taking it to the track and beating the snot out of it...... another reason to keep the shortblock in there.......

about the tranny, id keep the auto cause it is a bit*h to change over to a manual, and auto's are cool if you actually have power to back them up....... your gonna need a converter though.... i dont have an auto so i havent really looked into it but ive seen a lot of people happy with a converter called something like a vigilante 2200 or something.........they selll complete rebuild kits for the 700r in www.summitracing.com and www.jegs.com for only like $150 and that is the HI PERFORMANCE ones........

And about the engine deal...... If you are wanting to go big cube..... sell the other engines, and just buy a 350 block out of an 87-90 iroc-Z that way all of the holes, sensors and everthing will work perfectly and you wont have to ghetto fab........ I think you would like to have a 383 it sounds like....... id hold off though..... your 350 you have now with a good freshen up and some good TPI mods will really make that 4.6 feel like a honda!

 

Also look around on the camaro sites for good deals on performance stuff....... you can find some really good deals, and save a lot of money especially on the big ticket items, and the big ticket items usually make the big HP numbers........
Heres some sites i browse for parts.......
www.thirdgen.org's classifieds
www.ebay.com this is a really good one
www.camaroz28.com another good one more fourth gen oriented though anybody got any other good sites to look for good deals at???

 

I was going to suggest maybe getting your hands on an LT-1 or an LS-1 complete with ECM and harness if you want to go for the throat, but be forewarned.....
It is not a straight swap when you go that route. It will cost more to do it that way, and you may or may not get the results you want.
My setup was a monstrous change and did cost a pretty penny to do. (It was virtually an experiment at the time.)
However, with what you have, I think the Holley route may be a great idea, it is just getting past the emissions. I have heard of guys doing a Corvette-type EGR system hookup for other manifolds, and this one may be just as good to try!
The Holley Site, praise them, on the "what's new" doesn't have the .jpg's formatted properly, and I had to use photoshop to convert the images for all to see.
Holley TPI Base and Plenum Thread
Just go there.
There is a lot of talking going on about this system, and I think you'd be well off to go that route!

 

i went to the local drag strip today (1/4 mile) for the first time....and i raced my mustang... i ran a 15.3xx with a 1.1 R/T!! well give me some credit...it was my first time...i missed 3rd...COMPLETELY... my hands were sweety and my hand slipped of the shifter!!!
My second run i got a .8 something R/T...i spun frist the whole way and got a 15.8 ohh well...ill have to go again to see if i can improve...but there has been a change in my plans with my camaro...

on a side note (before i get to my changed plans) i got to sit in a 199x? something Mitsu. 3000GT VR4(twin turbo AWD!!) running 14 lbs of boost and a mid 90s mitsu. eclipse running 12# of boost!!! WOW it was fast (well the VR4 anyway, he ran a 13.5 and it was his frist time to the track too)

back to my camaro...i want to go forced induction now. how hard is it to reach 400hp (at the flywheel) with forced induction...is 400hp too easy or would 450-500 hp be a little better goal...i know this all depends on my budget. This goal would not be a one month goal...i would like this to be a nice project vehicle but i want it to be crazy fast...but i dont want to live paycheck to paycheck.

to free up some money i am thinking about selling the saleen (as previously stated) and getting something like a 95 yukon for a daily driver...that way i can go all out on my camaro.

so back on my engine...what do you think? i think 500 hp would be a nice goal...but i honestly really dont know how much power 500 hp is!!! all i know is 225hp (my saleen) is nice...but i want fast! i want to be pinned in my seat! as i am sure everybody would like to be! so any insight would be appreciated...and thanks again for sticking with this post for so long.

Mike

 

400 HP with forced induction isn't that hard to come by. If the cam, heads, and intake are all matched properly with forced induction you should be able to hit 500 horse pretty easily. If you're going in this direction you might want to invest in some better bottom end parts so you don't break anything.

 

you beat me the punch...i was just about to post another question...what kind of bottom end should i be looking at to handle AT LEAST 500 horses? i have been looking at the Eagle Forged crank? would that be a good buy? forged connecting rods and pistons are a given...what companies should i be looking at?

Connecting rods H or I beam...what is stronger?

pistons, should i go with flat top or something else? what should be CR be to get some good boost?

and ill post a question about supercharges on the forced induction board some time so i think that is it for my never ending questions!!

Mike

 

If you are going to dedicate it to the motor, remember the transmission as well as the rear end, and suspension. Is this car just going to be on the dragstrip, or a daily driver?
You talk about using this and that car for this and that, and it is making me dizzy. What are you going to do?
Go to SLP.
Look at the LS-1 crate package.
BETTER YET: Let me give you an IDEA:
SLP 500 HP LS1
That's just the Engine!
Remember everything else!
Edit:
Oh wait a minute!
That is for the package to MODIFY an LS-1 engine.
Let's see.....
$5000 or so LS-1
$10000 or so for SLP + $3000 installation...
___________________________________
$18000

(Not including Transmission, rear end, and suspension!)

The price of performance!

 

For 500 Horse you should at least use a 4 bolt main block (or modify a 2 bolt into a splayed 4 bolt), run a good forged crank and pistons. I don't know what rods to use so I'll leave that for someone else.
For the pistons, it kinda depends on what you want to do. The more compression you run the better the non boosted response and gas mileage, the lower the compression the more boost you can run. If you're looking to run about 10-12lbsor so you should be able run around 9:1 as long as you run a good intercooler. Some guys over on the Power adder board are running about 10lbs with the stock bottom end and 9.3:1 compression.

 

once again......

TPIS base
SLP or ASM siamized runners
Port matched plenum

AFR 190 or 195 heads

Supercharger

Id build the crate motor using the parts listed above, and when its finally done, just swap it in to the iroc as is.......

THEN use the 350 L98 in your iroc now and build it into a sweet 383.......

Forged internally balanced 1 piece rear seal crank
forged rods ARP rod bolts/nuts
Forged 9.0 to 1 pistons - bored .030?
All machine work done
Since you love your 4 bolts, get the block splayed 4 which is supposedly strogner than a stock 4 bolt......

DOES IT SUCK WHEN SOME OF THE NEW STOCK HONDAS RUN FASTER THAN YOUR FRICKEN SALEEN????

 

i really dont know if you have read the whole post but i have said that i want it to be a street car and i want it to out handle my saleen...so i know that i need suspension...as far as transmisison i am not sure what i want to do...but i have NOT forgotten about it either. I will not drive the car every day, and as far as the track goes... i might take it every now and then...but i dont want it set up for the track (all upper end HP) i want it set up for the street.

He!! ImportsRsloths, maybe i should just e-mail you...you come up with some great ideas...i think i might just do that (build up the 383 while i drive the car around. 2 things though

1) i really dont need the camaro up and running while i work on it cause i want to get an SUV for a daily driver (and for when i get out of the military i want to move to colorado but that is a diff story)

2) i would like to feal the power as i go (i dont remember who sugested this earlier in the post) but, i want to put some performance stuff on my car then drive it and see the improvement. as apposed to building up this bad a$$ engine and just droping it in the engine bay and have a quick car...do you see what i am saying...for some reason it is hard for me to word?!

and i think i might want to reemphasize (sp?) my car needing to be emissions leagal...how much harder will it be to hit 400-500 horses and staying withing emissions?

Mike

 

I passed, but I figure I have around 310 HP or so...
I was scared when I took it in!
Hehehe.
But to be honest, I don't know if it is possible to have that much horsepower and keep it emissions legal?
(And this is without NOS and 350 CID)
I'm being honest with you, 500 HP may be obtainable, but emissions as well? That's tricky.
My .02

 

Thats the problem!
1st you want a car to beat a 225hp mustang.
Now you want a 500hp supercharged Camaro.

Speed cost money. Its that simple. IMO 13.5 is not that fast. Thats what I run in the 1/4. My goal is to have a daily driver that runs 12's on motor and 11's on the bottle.

You must set a goal. Then figure out a way to get there. People here can help you w/ the 2nd part. But YOU need to make up your mind.:lala:

 

very true...but in the begining (of this post) i dont think i explained myself... i have always wanted a fast car (as i am sure most people one this board do). and when i originaly posted i thought my mustang had more power than only 225 hp!! so i was using that as my goal...but then i found out my saleen is $25,000 of body work and suspension. So i kinda had to reword my goal...if you know what i mean.

Where i am at right now is finding out WHAT MY GOAL SHOULD BE. That is why i am asking baiscly how much HP can i get that is streetable/emissions leagal...and still be killer fast without haveing to hit the lottery.

Without writing another book for a post i think i will leave it at that....any more comments...i am all ears.

 

Let's look at what you have.
You have a 350 Crate motor. Any information on the engine?
What kind of cam/heads are on it now? Is the cam computer friendly with your TPI?
Are you going to put those heads on the engine now?
"Existing TPI" or going to go with SLP or Holley?
The crate motor you have now, are you going to replace everything on it? Crank, pistons, heads?
Do you want to go Nitrous? Blower? Turbo setup?
A TPI system hates engines that are radically changed from the stock confguration, and it is very hard to get right without the right kind of computer/chip setup to handle what you have done.
It will cost money. Definitely.
- - - - - - - - -
We need more information.

Emissions:
SLP Headers (or similar emissions friendly headers)
HiFlow Cat.
3" exhaust system with catback
EGR manifold (Or one that can be made to use EGR)

Cam with maximum lift for emissions...
(this is a very deep and broad subject and can be applied in a lot of different ways. It really depends on the type of induction you are planning on. Forced induction makes it even more complicated.)

Engine:
Are you going to use that crate engine and just bolt on the intake system, or are you tearing the motor up and putting all those other parts in it? Parts is parts. We really need information from you as to what you want to build.

Transmission:
A nice high rpm stall converter might be something to seriously consider. Something in the 2000-2400 rpm range.

Rear end gears and posi:
3:42 or maybe even higher gears! You are putting a lot of power to that rear end! Torque is what gives you your "seat of the pants" feeling when you hit the throttle. Horsepower and torque go hand in hand. You are going to produce a ton of torque with that kind of horsepower. Unless you want your wheels to spin forever.

I'm not much of a help but I can tell you that a lot of the people here DO know what they are talking about when it comes to doing these sorts of things. If it weren't for a few of the more educated people on here, I would NEVER have had my car running.

I can tell you from what I have learned in my experiences. By all means I am no expert. There are people here that have done some incredible modifications. They can help you too.

I can only suggest from what information you have given. Not from what I could/would do. I can only go by what you are planning to do! Help us and we can help you.

 

ok i can see this being a long post...here i go...

my crate 350..all i know is that it is a GM goodwrench 350 for a 93 buick..something...i dont remember what...but if you need i can try and get some more info on it. my roommate works at a local Chevy dealership so i will see if he cant get me some info...sorry for my ignorace but i thought a 350 was a 350...it has the center bolt heads (same as what is in my camaro now) but other than that i dont know that much about it.

as far as intake...when i go to put the crate in i was planning on putting a whole new intake on. That is why i was asking what intake to get...but i guess i have to figure out what exactly my goal is in the end before i buy anything right?

---Edit---
Heads- i dont care what heads i put on now...i would like (in the end) to put on AFRs...it sounds like i should be looking at the 200cc ones if i am going to go Forced induction correct?
---end edit---

Power adder-

i would like to go Supercharger...specificly i like Procharger.

Rotating Assy-

i need to know what HP/Torque a cast crank can handle... Lets say my goal is 400 hp and i run a Supercharger on the TPI system..should i go ALL forged or just the pistons and Connecting rods?

computer/Chip-

HMM..nobody has mentioned this before...ill have to look into that.
i realize that i can just throw what ever engine combo i want in my engine and expect the computer to just KNOW what to do with it...but i didnt know that the computer didnt like change. What would i have to change? is it reporgramable?

exhaust-

you say 3"...you mean single 3" right...what about dual 2.5" i have looked on the exhaust board before and seen that there are some heated arguments about this subject so i dont mean to start one here. just looking for some info.

Cam-
this is the area where i lack the most knowledge..so ill cross that bridge when i get there. cause anything you say will go in one ear and out the other.

engine-
i dont know what i am going to do...i would like some input though...i will have a daily driver so i dont need the camaro running right away. BUT i dont want to build up this bad a$$ engine and just install it and call it quits. i would like to install an engine all set up for future mods...(keeping my goal at 400 horses) if i need forged internals then i would like to go ahead and install them now. that way when i get the supercharger i dont have to worry about the bottom end...all i have to get done is a good tune. I would like to be able to drive the car between mods so i can feel it getting faster and take it to the track every now and then and see a diff. see what i am saying...i am trying to keep it as short as possible and still keep the meaning.

Transmission...here is another one...what to do? I think i would like to keep the 700R4 set up...but the one in it now is toast. Should i buy one that has had a performance rebuild or buy new...say from TCI (i think that is the name)...i would like some recommendations on this too. It has to handle the power safely i dont want to buy a cheap trany now and have to get another one latter..if i am going to do this i want it done right the first time.

rear end-
i was thinking 3.77s...or should i get something else.

"I'm not much of a help but ...."

no no..youhave been a lot of help thanks i hope this post straighten things out in the end my question right now is...

"With a 350 TPI w/ Supercharger and Emissions/Streat leagal What would be a realistic Goal without having to hit the lottery to make my goal" But on the same token i am not going to buy cheap parts and expect to make a lot of power

THANKS FOR EVERYONES HELP AND PATIENTS
:hail: ThirdGen.org

 

I think 3.73's are WAY to much for your engine especially since you want it very streetable TPI motors are EXTREMELY torquey motors and their RPM ranges are down low.......... you use gears to get to high rpm ranges like with a carb........ Ive got a few high performance magazines and those TPI cars actually went faster with 3.42's than 3.73's because they ran out of breath so fast.......... not to mention 3.42's are better for street and better on the gas..........

Another option you might want to go is ..... i dont know if youve heard about the newer vortech motors........ well they are really a nice set up.......

Welll...... scoggin dickey or something like that makes a TPI manifold that bolts up to vortech heads..... they put stock vortech heads and that manfiodl on and made like 330 HP or something plus or minus a few of that...........

GM performacne parts sells aluminum fastburns which are high performance vortec heads and put on that manfifold with the SLP runners and a ported plenum and you will be makin crazy horse power especially with that forced induction you might be getting........


The only option for a DECENT computer chip is ed wright at www.fastchip.com or to burn your own chip which takes some skill and patience i just ordered my ed wright chip today so ill tell ya how it works out


Cam-
LT4 Hot cam or ZZ9 cam or something with similiar specs

Tranny-
Id do a high performance complete rebuild, and a good shifter with a really good torque converter


Your crate 350 will hold up to the power of this engine a lot better than you think....... a GM crate motor aint no ford

 

Quoted by me:



Higher gears are lower numerically.
3:42 / 3:23 / 3:08 / 2:73

Thought I'd explain that a little better to you.
It's the ratio of driveshaft turns to one wheel turn.

Example: the driveshaft will turn about 3 1/4 turns to one rotation of the wheel with 3:23's

 

ohh ok .... i see what you are saying...i dont want a higher gear ratio cause i will just spin the tires...got ya...you wouldnt happen to know what i have stock do you?

 

You want to keep it in the range I specified.
2:73 to 3:73
You don't want them lower (numerically higher) for the reasons that ImportsRSloths is telling you. The TPI systems are LOW RPM range engine configurations.
That's the way they are designed.

Edit:
You want to go as low (high numerically) as possible without the engine going out of it's range. Hence the higher stall and forced induction.

With a higher stall and forced induction, you might bring it into a better range but streetable? Uh no.

3:42 or 3:73 are about the best to go with that route. You will have plenty of power behind those gears, just get some good grippers!