Boom She Died Help
Boom She Died Help
Ok i recently bought an all originall 83 2.8l carb camaro from the originall owner well unfortunatly it took a crap on me and i threw a rod!! AHHHH. i have been resarching the forums and no i dont want a v8 and know i dotn wanna 3.4. here is what i need to know. I want to get the most out of my little 2.8l but i need to get her back on the road!! this is what i have gathered for a good combo suggestions and comments please.. 2.8 bored .40 over trw forged pistons ( do i need to do anything with my crank??? Can i put in a 3.1 or 3.4 crank what would that do) Cam ( i have know idea what kind of cam to get as far as lift and duration??? suggestions needed) Im gonna be doing a high volume oil pump felpr gaskets and new freeze plugs all the regular things! thast all i wanna do right now. What can i do ?? But keep in mind i am after christmas either gettin valves and heads done and roller rockers and porting the intake and rebuilding the carb. How much will the internal setup i listed cost and what can i expect out of my mioghty 2.8?? thanks alot!
oops forgoott to mention
I am intending on doing a supercharger and a possible shot of nitrous so keep that in mind on the build ! Juat doin internals now so i can get her back on the road for a while! thanks again for all the help!
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
On an 83, it has the worst crank and bearing design their is. This also being said, makes it so a 3.1/3.4 crank will not go in. Even later 2.8 cranks wont go in.
If you insist on building your current block, bore it to your likings, Install 3.1/3.4 heads, Cam of your choice (I'm no cam expert), New/rebuilt carb.
If you insist on building your current block, bore it to your likings, Install 3.1/3.4 heads, Cam of your choice (I'm no cam expert), New/rebuilt carb.
DO NOT work with your current block, the main journal size on it is smaller and weaker than the 86 and up blocks. These blocks have been known tohave major oiling problems.
I would go with an 86+ 2.8 block. It has a larger and stronger main bearing size. It will also alow you to throw a 3.1/3.4 crank in there. If you put the bigger crank in it, you will need to have your TRW pistons made for use with a 3.31" stroke crank.
Your best bet would be to just get a 3.1 block from the junkyard, it is basically the exact same as a 2.8 block exept it comes with a 3.1 crank. This is your best bet... but a 3.4 would be better.
I would go with an 86+ 2.8 block. It has a larger and stronger main bearing size. It will also alow you to throw a 3.1/3.4 crank in there. If you put the bigger crank in it, you will need to have your TRW pistons made for use with a 3.31" stroke crank.
Your best bet would be to just get a 3.1 block from the junkyard, it is basically the exact same as a 2.8 block exept it comes with a 3.1 crank. This is your best bet... but a 3.4 would be better.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
A 3.1 crank will work in a pre-87 2.8 block? Didn't know that.
I'd say get Minimum a 1987 2.8 block. These were internally balanced due to an added counterweight on the crank. This counterweight was meant for the DIS (distributorless ignition system) on front wheel drive 2.8's... but on our rear wheel drive 2.8's, this allowed the engine to be internally balanced. That means if you have to swap flexplates or flywheels, the flexplate or flywheel would just get neutral balanced.
Otherwise you'd "have to" get a new flywheel balanced to your pre-87 crankshaft.
All harmonic balancers, 82-92, are neutral balanced, so no worries there.
As for cost, 89RS-T, keep in mind that going from cast pistons to forged pistons will add an extra $300 to your rebuild!! That's why my future (in what, 20 years? sigh...) rebuild will only have cast pistons. Guys with v8's with cast pistons have run the juice no problem with them... as long as the nitrous shot isn't overkill. But if you're really going to put a blower along with the juice, then you'll definately need forged.
Is the Camaro an automatic? If so that's the TH-200C "metric" trans, and it's been known to crap out all the time. If you're boosting up the power, think about upgrading to a TH-700r4- and again, these have a minimum year... try to get at the LEAST a 1987-up 700r4. The first two issuances by GM (83-84 and 85-86) had problems, the most of which were fixed in the '87 build.
I'd say get Minimum a 1987 2.8 block. These were internally balanced due to an added counterweight on the crank. This counterweight was meant for the DIS (distributorless ignition system) on front wheel drive 2.8's... but on our rear wheel drive 2.8's, this allowed the engine to be internally balanced. That means if you have to swap flexplates or flywheels, the flexplate or flywheel would just get neutral balanced.
Otherwise you'd "have to" get a new flywheel balanced to your pre-87 crankshaft.
All harmonic balancers, 82-92, are neutral balanced, so no worries there.
As for cost, 89RS-T, keep in mind that going from cast pistons to forged pistons will add an extra $300 to your rebuild!! That's why my future (in what, 20 years? sigh...) rebuild will only have cast pistons. Guys with v8's with cast pistons have run the juice no problem with them... as long as the nitrous shot isn't overkill. But if you're really going to put a blower along with the juice, then you'll definately need forged.
Is the Camaro an automatic? If so that's the TH-200C "metric" trans, and it's been known to crap out all the time. If you're boosting up the power, think about upgrading to a TH-700r4- and again, these have a minimum year... try to get at the LEAST a 1987-up 700r4. The first two issuances by GM (83-84 and 85-86) had problems, the most of which were fixed in the '87 build.
Another forgot to mention
I want to keep the origonall block and tranny numbers matching so to speak. My thought on all of the above. Do a stock rebuild ?? The car is in mint shape and i am the second owner! Shoudl i go with a stock rebuild and get another camaro to play with?? If you agree with me on this account what exactly am i gonna need how much and what kind of time frome are we talking thanks alot guys
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
if your going to stick a blower on it and nitrous, why worry about it being orginal block and trans?? That makes the car not orginal, and then it wont matter if you have numbers matching block/trans or not.
If you want to keep it all stock and numbers match for max orginal factor, rebuild stock bottom end at say .010 over, and enjoy a "classic".
If you want to get every power for your penny with a v6, get a 3.4, build it, get a 700r4 with a shift kit, or a t5 and do a trans swap, and have fun smoking them rubbers.
If you want to keep it all stock and numbers match for max orginal factor, rebuild stock bottom end at say .010 over, and enjoy a "classic".
If you want to get every power for your penny with a v6, get a 3.4, build it, get a 700r4 with a shift kit, or a t5 and do a trans swap, and have fun smoking them rubbers.
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Banned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 1
From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
I was going to ask the same thing Dale just did- This car will never be worth anything special because you tried to retain factory #'s. I don't know what real aggenda you are hiding? Sorry if this sounds mean, its not my intent- just stating a possible fact- I think you might be trying to keep the block you have to save money (money is tight for all of us). Machine work and rebuild kit will run you at least $1000 or more plus time running around. All for something that will be as weak as the original (weak: meaning power & reliability!) As other have said, the early 2.8 motors are crap.
Your best bet right now is this- Its an unbelievable price. I will be honest, Its tempting at that price. You can'r rebuild a used one that cheap. http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...category=33615
Thats a 160hp motor, yours is 125hp w/ carb (new)
Your best bet right now is this- Its an unbelievable price. I will be honest, Its tempting at that price. You can'r rebuild a used one that cheap. http://cgi.aol.ebay.com/ebaymotors/w...category=33615
Thats a 160hp motor, yours is 125hp w/ carb (new)
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Ocala, FL
Car: 95 Mustang GT Vert
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: T5
Doward here...
Believe me man. You DO NOT want to use your current block. Even all rebuilt, with new everything, you will destroy the bottom end. It's too weak.
I'm with TomP on this one... either get an '87+ 2.8, and go at it, or go with a 3.1/3.4
If you get the '87+ block, you can drop a 3.1 right into it. Guys putting V8s in their cars practically give away the 2.8/3.1s!
The 3.1 is just a 2.8 with a longer stroke, and different pin offset. I see no reason, if you are doing a total rebuild, to not go with an '87 or later block, a 3.1 crank kit, and 3.1 rebuild kit.
Rebuild kit with hypereutectic pistons is about $375 from Northern Auto Parts. That's everything minus rods and crankshaft.
Find a 3.1 crank, turn it .010/.010 ($75 machine work) and toss it in. Bore the block .75mm (about $100) and there you go - provided you assemble the engine yourself.
This is the road we're taking the turbo down.
Believe me man. You DO NOT want to use your current block. Even all rebuilt, with new everything, you will destroy the bottom end. It's too weak.
I'm with TomP on this one... either get an '87+ 2.8, and go at it, or go with a 3.1/3.4
If you get the '87+ block, you can drop a 3.1 right into it. Guys putting V8s in their cars practically give away the 2.8/3.1s!
The 3.1 is just a 2.8 with a longer stroke, and different pin offset. I see no reason, if you are doing a total rebuild, to not go with an '87 or later block, a 3.1 crank kit, and 3.1 rebuild kit.
Rebuild kit with hypereutectic pistons is about $375 from Northern Auto Parts. That's everything minus rods and crankshaft.
Find a 3.1 crank, turn it .010/.010 ($75 machine work) and toss it in. Bore the block .75mm (about $100) and there you go - provided you assemble the engine yourself.
This is the road we're taking the turbo down.
if you actually think that a "parts matching" car will sell for more money later on down the road, you could always just put the 2.8 engine in storage and rebuild it before you sell it.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,028
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
i'd have to throw my .02 in also, stick with what everyone else said. if anything having a 3.4L swap done to the car will do nothing but help the resale value, if this car was say an anniversary edition bird or maro then we might be talking a different story, and syaing "don't touch a thing" but an 82 camaro w/ an "almost" base engine isn't going to demand a high dollar today , tomorrow, or in years to come. However, a camaro still can get a pretty penny, so do what you can do make it more valuable, remmeber this still isn't going to be at the same price as a 90 or so IROC convertible with a TPIv8, not even 20 years from now, but a good running good looking car will still get a nice little dollar, and it being a #'s matching v6 isn't going to make any noticeable difference, cause no ones gonna pay the cash for it.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
I'm with Lee here.. if I ever get a high-dollar parts-matching 69 RS/SS, the first thing I'm doing is pulling the original drive train straight out of the car and putting in storage, toss in something more powerful, and feel free to beat the crap out of the drivetrain without worries... however.. uhh.. a base model third gen isn't a high-dollar parts-matching car.. it's a "Hey! It runs!" car.. there's not exactly a big collector market for the 60* V6 camaros... or to put it simply, it's not a TTA, MRMSE/TA, 25TH Anni /w the heritage package, one of the 50 '86 IROCs that came with a 350, anything... there's nothing special about it. It's a car. Don't mean to burst your bubble, but get yourself a newer block that will handle what you're planning on throwing at it.
But, as noted, if you really care about "original" value, rebuild it as minimally as possible, *forget* the nitrous and supercharger (they'll slice your resale value to shreds.. performance mods mean the car was probably raced. raced cars are worth less to the average consumer. Any time I look at buying a car, a decent rack of performance mods will cut my "willing to pay" value in half)
But, as noted, if you really care about "original" value, rebuild it as minimally as possible, *forget* the nitrous and supercharger (they'll slice your resale value to shreds.. performance mods mean the car was probably raced. raced cars are worth less to the average consumer. Any time I look at buying a car, a decent rack of performance mods will cut my "willing to pay" value in half)
Last edited by TechSmurf; Oct 29, 2003 at 10:06 AM.
Find a used running 3.4 long block for about $150 - $600 (average cost going, I've paid higher), get a $100 worth of gaskets set, rebuild the carb, slip it under the hood, stick a 2.8 decal on it & go have some fun.
Here's a pic of my carb'd 3.4 in my 85 Blazer.
Rebuild a 2.8?
Here's a pic of my carb'd 3.4 in my 85 Blazer.
Rebuild a 2.8?
Banned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 1
From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Hey Karl If you come across just a 3.4 block & crank in your travels, Please let me know. I'm in no hurry- just looking for a good deal- whether its with the rest of the motor or not- Just don't want to have to pull the g()d damn thing out of a greasy, tight 4th-gen myself. I'll buy immediately though if the price is right and the condition is decent (hasn't had prior machinework)
Want to travel to LA for it?
Happy to pass ya the guys number I get mine from.
Alameda corridor area.
Low Milage, High milage just ask him with your options.....
Help?
Lakenor Wrecking in Long Beach area also has them, too.
Due to the fires, maybe able to collect one also.
I also MAY know of a place in Torrnace that MAY have another option, almost as you asked/spec'd in other thread.
OR ya can await the release of the specs from GM on the 3.5/3.6 (Caddy & other RWD vehicles) of the next gen V6 60* mills & just dupe that design.
Use the GM Brain Division for their Rod/Crank Stroke formulas! Custom rods be damned! USE Genuine GM Parts off the shelf!
Try this number for PriMedia HQ & see what happens.
This is @2100 E Howell Anaheim 866-601-5199 (From 12/03 Corvette Fever masthead listing). See if someone already knows/offers/leads ya to the internal specs of the next gen V6* engines. Your mission is "internal" (bore & stroke). My mission is "external" (Street Legal Headers from PaceSetter! A quick short note to fgerle@pacesetterexhaust.com to express interest in this product)!
GM Being "CHEAP", I'll bet they just changed the rods & crank throw & yeah pistons, too, using same 3.4 block. I'll bet the 3.4 block has plenty of meat in it for opening up more.
Happy to pass ya the guys number I get mine from.
Alameda corridor area.
Low Milage, High milage just ask him with your options.....
Help?
Lakenor Wrecking in Long Beach area also has them, too.
Due to the fires, maybe able to collect one also.
I also MAY know of a place in Torrnace that MAY have another option, almost as you asked/spec'd in other thread.
OR ya can await the release of the specs from GM on the 3.5/3.6 (Caddy & other RWD vehicles) of the next gen V6 60* mills & just dupe that design.
Use the GM Brain Division for their Rod/Crank Stroke formulas! Custom rods be damned! USE Genuine GM Parts off the shelf!
Try this number for PriMedia HQ & see what happens.
This is @2100 E Howell Anaheim 866-601-5199 (From 12/03 Corvette Fever masthead listing). See if someone already knows/offers/leads ya to the internal specs of the next gen V6* engines. Your mission is "internal" (bore & stroke). My mission is "external" (Street Legal Headers from PaceSetter! A quick short note to fgerle@pacesetterexhaust.com to express interest in this product)!
GM Being "CHEAP", I'll bet they just changed the rods & crank throw & yeah pistons, too, using same 3.4 block. I'll bet the 3.4 block has plenty of meat in it for opening up more.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
I got a Transverse-Mounted 3.1 in my beater '89 GP. My wife wants to junk ther car (front-end damage) but it runs strong still, I could still bust tires (well, maybe only one, but I didn't check the screech marks) on it three days before I quit driving it. A friend is using it for now, loves it. My question: (whew, I'm long-winded) would that engine mount in an F-body? Would it be too much work, what difficulties would one forsee, would it be cheaper to get one out of another F-body, so on and so forth, ad nauseum. If I was planning on buying an old Firebird S/E, one that had a junk motor, would this be worth it?
Mind you, the 3.1 has 192,000 on it.
Still runs strong (I.E: not ragged out.)
Mind you, the 3.1 has 192,000 on it.
Still runs strong (I.E: not ragged out.)
For all the effort ya put out, do it right.
FIND A RWD 60* mill.
Yeah it's tempting but just not practical, honest.
3.4 are getting very plentiful & a new mill goes for $1700. Can't rebuild/remachine a core for that these days.
FIND A RWD 60* mill.
Yeah it's tempting but just not practical, honest.
3.4 are getting very plentiful & a new mill goes for $1700. Can't rebuild/remachine a core for that these days.
HEres the news
Ok, lucky me i guess you could say!! I have found the rebuild kit from northern and i will have all my parts and machine work done by the 12 dec... ( its a money thing) I am going to stick with orginall. This is just another camaro to some but i think it will be worth good money. I mean im not talking about in a year or so im talkin to or 20 if i ever sell it i mean maybe ill have a kid and he will have it. There is no way it wont be worth money i mean most acamaros these days get butchered for v8 so on and so forth. But thats part of the good news i just received an 83 transam 305 all originol ( lol) from my dad now i have an 83 ta and 83 camaro bothe second owners ( that would be me). I aprecitae all the help and opinions. But in january i am also getting an 85 berlinetta.. ( brothers in USMC SELLING it to me cheap!!) but its been butchered for a v8 so this is gonna be my new toy but i like the v6 idea any thoughts on a 3.8t ?? I know what needs to be done and i know its alot of money but for performance and sleeper sake what are your opinions?? Sorry for the long post thanks again guys
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 2,028
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
congrats on the T/A, now what'll really make em worht the big bucks is if they still have the VIN etched into all the glass on the car, (windshield, pass windows, t-tops, and rear hatch) There's one of those up at a place in St. louis, guys selling it for 15 i think, completely documented, all original, original glass, original low miles, one owner. I'm actually the second owner of my 85, the true beautiful thing about it is that you know all the history that surrounds a particular car, and don't have to go on someone elses word about it. Unfortunately i don't think my sixers gonna be worth much cash in the future because there's really nothing to make it desireable. Case in point would be a 69 camaro in beautful shape , straight body, no rust, no frame rot, etc and the lil toy is powered by a inline six cylinder, while the car will get some bux for just being an all original straight bodied car, it still won't turn the same dollars as a RS/SS car or for that fact an RS/SS clone. If ya saw a RS/SS clone with the 302 4bbl on it with a 4spd transmission, it'd get the bigger bux than the all original sixer even if both cars are in the same condition. I do completely uderstand financial things though, and for that reason i can completely understand your choice, think that TTA swap in the future and that'll get you some dough out of ur maro, good dough by that fact.
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