What should be the first (and cheapest) mods done to bring a little more pep into my 86 2.8 firebird?

 

say it TomP

 

Oh oh! I know!!

TomP's Major ______ !!!

 

tune up first. check fuel pressure to see if pump may be needed. timing chain helps on high mileage cars. then get into bigger mods. exhaust, headers, cam, and heads

 

ok so what are some of the next upgrades after tune up?

 

LOL, guys!! Yep, I always tell people to do a major tuneup to their cars when they first get 'em. That way you (A) know what's on there, (B) bring the motor back into tune just as it came from the factory, and (C) learn a little about your car before you do other work. It doesn't make sense to put an exhaust system on the car when the cap & rotor are crudded up, the fuel filter is clogged, the timing is over-advanced, and the plug wires are so rotted that they're causing a misfire. (Why do I feel like I'm trying to sell a product?) I've even had guys PM me after doing the tuneup, telling me that they could spin their rear tires after doing this job!!

So here's the repost of the Major Tuneup! <i>And don't skip anything!!</i> Do it all! This was how I started out with my car...

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Tom P's Major Tuneup Info: 3rd gen (82-92) F-body series

Here's the Major Tuneup stuff- this covers alot more than a garage would do for you, and it'll wind up to be cheaper (or at least the same price)! First, buy a Haynes 82-92 Firebird (or 82-92 Camaro) manual.. they're about $15 from any auto parts store. I like them alot better than the Chilton's manuals (which aren't what they used to be 25 years ago). And of course, the ultimate manual is the GM Service Manual, available from http://www.helminc.com - I paid about $60 for mine back in 1994.

Replace: Distributor cap/rotor, spark plug wires (use aftermarket), spark plugs, air filter (use K&N replacements), PCV valve, fuel filter, engine oil/filter, auto trans fluid/filter (or manual trans gear lube), and rear axle gear lube (use limited slip additive if required). Check and reset the timing to stock specs (in Haynes manual). Check and reset the TV cable if you have an automagic (in Haynes manual). Do a lube job and get an alignment done- the car will go faster "easier" if the front wheels are straight. Buy a can of "Intake and Throttle Body Cleaner for Fuel Injected Engines" by Gumout (yellow or gray can, with a red cap), and follow the can's instructions to clean out your intake. DO NOT USE CARB/CHOKE CLEANER- this removes the protective coating fuel injected engines have. Put a bottle of injector cleaner or my "red magic" (STP Gas Treatment) into a full tank of good gas.

It's also a good idea to replace your coolant, check your brake fluid level and p/s fluid level, check the belts, and check your brakes while you're at it.

Call Summit Racing at 800-230-3030 for a free catalog, then you can pick and choose a spark plug wire set and get your K&N air filter(s). (You can also find this stuff through their website, at http://www.summitracing.com , but it's not as thorough as the catalog.) When you leaf thru the catalog, you WON'T SEE any parts listed for a 2.8l v6 - you need to call them and ask them for part #'s/availablility. (Same goes with exhaust, etc.) If you're like me, and can't want to wait for the catalog in the mail, call them and order one anyway! Then, go to their website, at http://www.summitracing.com , look up their ignition wires, decide on a brand, and give them a call for a part # and price.

But definately do a tuneup first... you'll see the best improvement from the "fun" parts when your car is in good running condition.

 

I've done nearly anything to a 2.8/3.4 you can (NA), and I agree completely with Tom. After this, distributor rebuild!

 

Distrib rebuild, new timing chain...

Once you start getting into real 'modifications' start with a Dynomax catback.

 

Brakes.
You can never stop too quickly.

Pete

 

Brakes are soon in the future for me, too. Going LS1 brake setup

 

have to go with the timing chain and plugs. Timing chain is alot of work for a newbie, but I have a car with 43000 miles and the timing was already retarded(no offense guys). I think once you have 30,000 miles on a car anyway the chain has already stretched. Get some good plugs, money will dictate which ones, but I went with bosch plus 4's. I would also do the 8's, or 8.8's for sparkplugwires. If you don't change anything else, at least check you cap and rotor, and always change that fuel filter. I have had more problems with cars with this problem then anything else.

ps I also want to throw in that if you are under the hood, check you battery and connections. Nothing like corrosion buildup to spoil a good night of parking.

psps also check on underdrive pulleys, new muffler, and a chip for upgrades, and there is also a guy who is doing a turbo on here, you might want to check his post. But I would deffinitely do the tuneup first.

 

Doward check these out, my latest addition. Fronts are next, I am building a setup from scratch for the front, custom billet aluminum hubs(from Global West) and custom spindles & brackets I'm fabbing myself.

Dean

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=216339

 

Thanks... wow, those are seriously nice. I'm thinking of just going with the LS1 rear discs for now, though... aren't they 12.5" rear rotors?

First I'm doing a full front end first tho - front suspension, front brakes... then start working on the rear of the car.... I'm not exactly autocrossing, so I think the LS1's would be fine...

 

Definitely go with the TomP tuneup. Then, a decent enough intake can be done for free...with a little ingenuity or a dremel tool if necessary. Exhaust after that.

And...brakes? Ahh who needs those... I roll through stop signs all the time.