Timing Chain for the 3.4. Help!
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
Timing Chain for the 3.4. Help!
Ok, I need to change my timing chain, on my 3.4. Now I just want to double check before I got and buy the parts.. I will need the timing chain for the 3.4 and the gaskets for the 2.8 (because I have the 2.8 Timing cover). I know there are other things I will need. I wanted to know if it is necessary to change the cam and crank gears too... And What specialty tools will I need. And any other advice is welcome.. I hate the winter..... I have to do this on sunday in a non heated garage with a broken window. Hmm I think I will dig the kerosene heater outta the basement.
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From: Shelby Twp., MI
Car: 84 Z28 / 91 Trans Am
Engine: LS1 / 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T56 / 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.09 / 2.73
it is a good idea to change the timing chain and gears as a set . you could get a new dampner guide while you are in there . all you really need for special tools is a dampner puller and a gear puller.
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
6speed is correct, best to change all 3 parts at once. Its not much more expensive. I did all 3 parts for about 30-35, plus gaskets, about another 6-10 bux.
Timing chain is the same for a 2.8, 3.1, 3.4. Best advice is to get a chain for a 2.8, and gaskets for a 2.8, otherwise you could confuse the desk ppl.
Timing chain is the same for a 2.8, 3.1, 3.4. Best advice is to get a chain for a 2.8, and gaskets for a 2.8, otherwise you could confuse the desk ppl.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 379
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From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
I have a problem. I kinda bent the seal that goes over the end of the crank that goes in to timing cover. Do you think it would be safe to bend it back the best I could and use it anyway...
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
No, for the cost of that seal, get a new one. Its not more then a few bucks, and can cause more problems and headache later.
Do it right this time!
Do it right this time!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 379
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From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
OK. I have a BIG problem. I didn't move anything, when the chain was off. I just put everything back together, and tried to start it and now its back firing outta the exaust and the intake. I am gonna try resetting the distributor (maybe 180 out?). Please respond A.S.A.P. I need this car to get to work...
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
projects on the right track.
Before you took old chain off, you should have rotated it so that the dots here horizontal from eachother. Then pulled old one off, slide new one on.
Before you took old chain off, you should have rotated it so that the dots here horizontal from eachother. Then pulled old one off, slide new one on.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 379
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From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
I could only see one dot it was on the cam gear.. well I am ripping it back apart and going to redo this again. Some one told me to not move anything at all when I get it apart.... Well I asked an actual mechanic and he said I have to realign the Cam with the Crank when its at TDC so the cam gear dot is pointing strait down. And my old chain was really stretched out. I thing it was the original chain and gears.. 70k on the engin. So I am gonna get the crank at TDC and the move the cam so its pointing stright down...
That's all ya gotta do.
Shame your mission had complications.
IF ya do the 2.8->3.4 Long Block Swap Boogie, the easiest way is to reuse original vehicle oil pan/timing chain cover.
Then all original vehicle engine mounted accessories will bolt back up without a problem.
Whne parts store hunting, you can then ask for simply 198_ 2.8 stuff (if 3.1 powered, same idea).
When ya do the swap, one should always install a new T chain anyway, before inserting new fangled powerplant! AND T Chain tensioner AND balancer repair sleeve ($4 stainless steel sleeve that goes over balancer snout, removes the worn leak grove in snout). Then ya got a leak free engine up front, almost 100% guaranteed.
To remove bottom crank gear, it's so much fun!
Take SHARP metal chisel
Find the keyway part of gear.
HIT THERE WITH HAMMER & CHISEL, ONE SOLID GOOD WACK!
Gear splits open! slips right off. It's fun!
Shame your mission had complications.
IF ya do the 2.8->3.4 Long Block Swap Boogie, the easiest way is to reuse original vehicle oil pan/timing chain cover.
Then all original vehicle engine mounted accessories will bolt back up without a problem.
Whne parts store hunting, you can then ask for simply 198_ 2.8 stuff (if 3.1 powered, same idea).
When ya do the swap, one should always install a new T chain anyway, before inserting new fangled powerplant! AND T Chain tensioner AND balancer repair sleeve ($4 stainless steel sleeve that goes over balancer snout, removes the worn leak grove in snout). Then ya got a leak free engine up front, almost 100% guaranteed.
To remove bottom crank gear, it's so much fun!
Take SHARP metal chisel
Find the keyway part of gear.
HIT THERE WITH HAMMER & CHISEL, ONE SOLID GOOD WACK!
Gear splits open! slips right off. It's fun!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
Ok. I got everything back together and its not backfiring anymore.. I don't have a timing light but no matter where I put it it has no power and hesistates stalls and just runs like crap. Any idea's on what to check.
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