I am planning a performance rebuild of my 2.8L this summer, and I want to put an Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold on it. My question is concerning whether my MPFI unit will work properly with the manifold, or if I need to keep the stock one. Thanks for any help/ advice you can give.

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html

 

can only use the stock peice. Edelcrotch is for the carb world in this case.

 

I thought that was the case, but I wasnt sure. I havnt taken my intake apart yet because im afraid of what i will find. I bought my camaro for 250$, and all it needed was a fuel pump. Since then i have done all the basic maintenance stuff and put on new coil, plug wires, etc., and rebuilt the 700R4. The motor is putting out decent power (especially now that it is timed correctly), but i want to rebuild it so that i know what parts are in it and know it is reliable.

 

If ya want to buy a low milage 3.4 mill to stick under the hood, let me know.
He's in Downtown LA Alameda Corridor.
I've bought 2 3.4 from him & no regrets!

 

XSVortex, how was the 700r4 rebuild? I've gotta rebuild mine, <i>hopefully</i> this summer (although I've been saying that for years), and it looks pretty straightforward. Seems like the only "overwhelming" bit is the number of parts involved. I've got the GM service manual, Haynes GM Transmission overhaul book, <i>and</i> the ATSG manual for the 700r4.

Did you do a stock rebuild? Got any part #'s for me? Who was the rebuild kit by, and did you have to buy anything extra?

Thanks!

 

I didnt rebuild my 700-R4 myself because i wanted a warranty (I havnt rebuilt an automatic transmission yet). I took it to Norco Transmission near my house and had them put all Borg Warner stuff in it. It has a shift kit to get rid of that annoying kickdown on the freeway, so it is a true 4 speed now. I have had the rebuild for about a month and it works great. The tranny shop did a great Job on the rebuild, and the thing looks brand new. Everything was replaced except the bell housing, the gears were missing chunks and alot of the stuff was torn up. I took the transmission out when it dropped all the tranny fluid in about a quarter mile on the way home from one of my baseball games, and the torque converter was cracked. The New Trans works great though, clean shifts and decent gearing.

 

Oh, okay, yeah, I've had my trans rebuilt twice already, and I figure when this one goes, I'll re-do it myself. I can't do much worse then the other two experts did.

You got the B&M 4-3 kickdown kit? I put that one into my trans when I put my B&M shiftkit in... great valve! I agree, it's more of a 4 speed manual now. (I'm a B&M fan... I also put the Megashifter and Supercooler on there.) When I rebuild the trans though, I won't put the B&M shiftkit back in- I'm going to go with TransGo.

Where'd your TC crack? At the input snout? That's where mine took a crap- both times! First rebuild, I had the car back for a week, and suddenly I'm leaving a trail of smoke down the highway. Called Lee Myles, the trans was under their warranty, the tc cracked at the snout and took out the front seal. Trans died a year and a half later- and I didn't go back to Lee Myles. Dropped the unit out myself and saw the snout was cracked- I figured LM put the old TC back in when they fixed it. The "expert" that rebuilt my trans told me that he found the missing piece lodged in the fluid pump, which blocked the passage, and made the pump run dry. So apparently Lee Myles likes using cheap torque convertors!

 

What lead to this rash of torque convertor cracking cases?
I've abused my trannys I believe more than anyone can.
Try going over 7 years without changing fluid, having to manual shift at 4800-5,000 outta first gear upon vehicle first morning movement.
No second gear for about 4 years. Only 1-3-4
I drove it until the engine head gasket made chocolate milk.
This time of the 3.4 swap boogie for my Blazer, I also shuffled in a fresh core of a rebuilt 700R4 by same guy that did my Firebird one. I understood cases can also have an affect on tranny rebuild job & eventual on road performance.
PS I hope that tranny shop whom I took to court for such a poor excuse of a "tranny rebuild", burnt to the ground in the 1992 LA Riots, all tools stolen & the guy had no insurance.

 

Yeah, mine cracked at the input shaft... I went out to lunch after my baseball game... when i parked, i noticed a growing puddle of trans fluid coming out from underneath. I looked under, and fluid was POURING out from around my inspection plate. So I drove it home, pulled in the backyard and pulled the trans out. Took it down, got the rebuild done, then they had my car towed and installed it (saved me alot o time). Got a warranty on it, the guy was really cool about it and was refered to me by a bunch of people. Seemed pretty knowlegable and the transmission looks brand new. This was the first major thing I have had go wrong with the car... I bought it for 250$, the guy didnt know what was wrong with it. Needed a fuel pump, so i installed that. I have put plugs, wires, coil, basic maintenance, did brakes all around, and the engine was rebuilt about 10,000 miles before i bought it (supposedly). I want to do a full rebuild of a 3.4L and drop it in so that i know it is reliable, Ill know what parts are in it and ensure there quality, and to get some extra power. The car has decent power now, but who doesnt want more...

 

I've paid $800 & $900 for my low milage 3.4 (44,000 & 50,000 used running long blocks).
The new crate 3.4 mills go for only $1800 - $2100 now adays.
Some have scored their used 3.4 mills for less, I've pay the most.
Avg seems to be $500-ish.
These days with the cost of machining & parts, I'll keep buying used low milage mills. I await the day I can afford a used LS6 under the ol 85 Firebird hood. But I've got many miles to go before that day.
I'm building a 1970 Corvette LT-1/Camaro Z-28 350 for one of my old car rides. A "rare motor" V8 mill is worth the personal touch & machining costs. I almost wish I had scored a great new V8 crate motor for the time I've taken building this engine, tho.
These 3.4 mills are so easy to score, good low milage used 3.4 take a few days to locate, easily, tho.

 

Hey XS, where did you get your name from... or were you just copying me?

 

Vortex, I honestly had no idea that anyone had a screename close to mine. I have had this screename/e-mail/AIM/YIM/WM for like 2 years, and I have only been fallowing this site for about a month, but if you want me to change it I will.
As for the V6-v8 swap, I cant really afford insurance on a v8 (Although I would love to build up an IROC 350). Im still in high school, and my parents are paying my insurance. and have been fixing it up since then. I want to do the 3.4L swap to gain power, keep my awsome handling, and get more power while keeping the insurance/ gas milage the same (reasonable anyway).Eventually this car will become a part runner, then a project car.

 

Tell me about it. I have been Gumby on the web since 95-96 and I find it hard to keep my ID. [Formerly Rodamez]

Its so old my Gumby ICQ number is 3973982 / 7 digit number is old. Like 23 now.

Though anyone can use my avatar.

 

Nah, just yankin your chain mate.. and if what you say is true ive had the name longer... But all is well as long as you dont open competition businesses called XSVortex Performance and XSVortex Computers... then we're 5x5.

 

Inserting 3.4 power is a viable alternative to dumping your current ride for a V8 powered ride.
Just remember you will not win EVERY RACE with a 3.4 under the hood, but you'll have more fun trying!