This has happend severl times in the past few months i will be in traffic going at 10 MPH then stop then go etc. When i am stopped and i go to accelerate my car will just turn off. It wont sputter or anything its like someone turned the key off. IT has even happend when i went to accelerate on the freeway doing about 15 mph. Any one know what could be causing this???
I had the ignition cylynder replaced so i know its not that
I did a full tuneup plugs wires cap rotor ignition module. I assume the fuel pump is working since this spratticaly happens. I have no clue as to why this happens and i want to fix it before i brake down in the middle of a 2 way hwy.

 

Does it start immediately back up?

 

How much fuel was in your tank when this happened?

 

Yes it immetly starts right back up. Given i remeber to put it into park. My tank ws a little over half way full.

 

Also both times its happend ive been on level road so the gas isnt pushed to all they way back or all the way forward in the tank.

 

Well, it doesnt sound like fuel delivery since it starts right back up. Probably isnt an overheating ICM too for the same reason. Maybe your IAC valve is acting up.

 

Stick it in neutral when you go to stop for a while. See if it still does it. Would help narrow some things down.

It could be a bad vac or exhaust leak and stopping in gear puts to much load and it dies.

Like an old truck that you gotta power brake when you stop, or it dies.

 

Im not throwing any SES codes and my IAC is fairly new. I know i have a small Vac leak from my power booster could that be it. ITs the rubber groumet that connects to the big hose that goes to the intake. I would think it would stumble tho which it dosent. ITs like i dont even feel the car turn off i go to accelerate and the car is off. How do i fix the leak on my powerbooster does that plastic elbow just pull out or is it part of the power booster. I was told a long time ago not to pull it out. Because it is part of the Power Booster and is held in by something inside the power booster.

 

There you go. Fix the leak with some sort of goop / glue or get a new power booster. I would get a new/ refurbed one if it really can't be pulled out or replaced [the rubber elbow]

 

Maybe some epoxy might be a quick fix for that.

 

Its just what i herd. Any one herd of this? Im sure all our powerboosters are the same i have a 91 3.1 if that makes a difference.

Also wouldntt the car shudder before it died? Its literly like someone turned the key off with out me knowing.

 

If it was a small leak it might shutter. But that power boostes leak is a big problem. I'm not suprised that it just shuts off.
They can and will do that. It sucks all the power from the egine and it dies. A small leak would make it shudder but that one is a major leak. Not only are you leaking vacuum the power booster runs off vacuum so it loses even more.

 

With a vacuum leak it will usually miss/stumble at idle, or it will idle higher than normal. A high idle is usually a small leak, and a low idle is usually a larger leak, from what I've seen.

Only times I've had a car completely cut out on me with no stumbling or anything were from a clogged fuel filter, and sluggish IAC valve motor.

 

I should replace my fuel filter it has 30,000 miles on it i have the new one jsut too lasy to put it on. Im sure a little silcone were the leak is would fix that. When my car ate my key i pulled the hose off to kill the enigne. Ill fix those two things and see if it helps.

 

You can just replace the booster's check valve; it should just pull out, and a new one will pop in. Who told you it wasn't possible to change the check valve? An actual mechanic, or some guy who works on his car every now and then? I've always understood that the check valve just pushes in, it's not held from the back or anything, and the booster won't fall apart if you remove it.

Try wiggling the ignition coil's HARNESS WIRES (not spark plug or coil wires) while the engine runs. I had a bad wir e going to my spark coil (caused by a blue T-tap I used to patch in my tach), and the engine would stall every now and then. A "wiggle test" on the side of the road showed me where the problem was.

And yeah you can be rolling in neutral and be able to crank the engine... you don't have to put the trans in park.

 

Unless your car is messed up like my Camaro was.

 

After i replaced my head gasket i had a huge vac leak from the main manifold boot. Turned out it had a 1/4 " crack all the wat down it. My car first idled very high then would shut off like the key was turned.
I first sealed the crack with rtv to see if the problem went away

After the rtv dried i started it, ran perfect

So i just replaced the boot with some heater hose like ked(if i remember correctly) said.

I also rtv'd all my vac hoses together. LOL a lil paranoid? yeah.

 

Vacuum Leak!
Can ya bring it by so I can see about the brake booster connection? It pulls right out easy.
Get new one at help sections parts stores.
Or where can I find ya these days?
Yeah I suggested that big old vacuum connection for the PVC on back of engine.
Happy to hear a simple piece of stupid heater hose can fix your problems.
These engines do require absolutly zero vacuum leaks!