When the car hits about 180+ it has alot of stumbling issues when trying to accelerate. I am getting codes 32,34,44 right now.

32. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve
34. Low voltage (high vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor) Just got a new MAF
44. Oxygen sensor lean

Also stumbles and dies when decellerating.
But mostly conserened with when i try to accell its horrible, as in its not getting air and just fuel, but when i get it above 4,500 it starts to smooth out some again. Runs great when cold.

Almost sounds like its missfireing really badly, as in its way too late in the timing and there is usually a smell of fuel when i get to a stop and get out.

 

clean the IAC

 

Check timing, check for vacuum leaks, check wiring all the way into the loom for breaks. Start there, see if anything comes up. Good Luck!

 

check to see if your egr is stuck open at idle.

 

Ok, From what it sounds like, it could be a dirty IAC, EGR valve not operating correctly, or maybe a possibly bad Coolent sensor. So with the car cold the O2 is not being read from yet, right? So if the egr was acting up all the time, then it would still not run properly when cold, or is it when the O2 kicks in it tells the ECM that something is amis and readjust the A/F, causing a lean condition...
If it is the IAC then y would it only act up when the car warms up? Unless the O2 is kicking in again and telling the ECM that something is out of line, and makes corrections causing lean again...
Coolent sensor, dont know how it could be effecting much.

If EGR is just not functioning right it could be the vaccume lines leading to it, i do know that some maybe colapsed or leaking, but not causing the motor to get extra air, witch would raise idle, but i do have an idle of about 850 when its at its lowest.
IM going to check the lines tomarrow and look at the EGR control solenoid, and EGR diagnostic Vacuume switch.

Could a misoperating EGR cause 32(prettysure) and a 44(lean O2)?

 

32 yes it could easily, 44 is another thing, i have code 44 sometimes myself and i've done everything i could think of to get rid of it. now when it pops up i ignore it.

 

Well, i did find that i had some major vacuume leaks. Replaced every flexible hose i could find, and alot of the hard lines. And the problem is still there so i checked the EGR valve at it seems to move freely and travel the full distace. Hooked upa vacuume gauge to it and i never get a reading going into it. So i check all the lines heading to the EGR Vacuume Selonoid, and they all apear fine and are reading 10+ vacuume at different TB possitions. So leading me to think that i may have a bad selonoid. Witch run about $95 and a new EGR is only $35 :umm:

Going to take it into school had have autotech Teach look at the entire EGR control system and see what he thinks. My little repair manual hasnt said anything about testing the selinoid.

 

thats why i just blocked mine off.

 

Blocking it off is first thing tomarrow... then when i get back to school tuesday then ill look at it somemore. but im happy to have an almost completely new Vacuume system =]. Still got somehissis but i know where they are and how to fix them, Sylicone is my friend

 

I only have the bare minimum vaccume hoses and they are all siliconed to the nipples they connect to! lol