Hey guys, I have a couple of questions for ya. One, I found this cam in my Comp Cams book for our v6's and i was wondering if any of you have ever used this cam or know if it will work with our computer, heres the specs.

Rpm operating range 1000-5000
Cam grind # 260H
Advertised Duration IN(260) EX(260)
Duration .050" IN(212) EX(212)
Valve lift with 1.5 rocker IN(.440") EX(.440")
Lobe seperation angle 110 deg.

The cam number is 16-233-4

Next question, does anyone sell a good timing set for our cars like a gear to gear or something? Also is there a roller lifter setup that we can buy for our cars or can we use lifters off of a 350 or so? Im just trying to see what my options are. I have free access to a dyno anytime I want to use it, so I am just trying to get things together so that I can give you guys some numbers of what actually works well on our motors. I have already gotten a base run done on my car and I just got the dynomax cat back setup put on my car about a week ago and im gonna go get it dynoed again probably next week or so to see what kind of gain it gave me. next i am probably going to do a 1.52 roller rocker setup and dyno it again. Im doing this for you guys so keelp me motivated and full of ideas to try. im planning to spray my car but i have been told that the piston skirts are weak on our motors and eventually it will start knocking after a while of nitrous use. has anyone that sprayed their car had this problem, v6 specific? I really want to build this motor instead of a v8, I thik its got the potential to be a good performer, from the look at the numbers it put down on my base run. Oh by the way my numbers for the base run were 133 hp and 185 tq. my plan is to get the hp up to about 200 and spray 100 shot on it. what do you think? can it be done without major mods? Ill be back later with more info. -Matt

 

Nice to see another thirdgenner content with modding his V6. Those numbers are quite impressive (especially the torque). Would you mind me using your dyno (for testing puposes). I'm anxious to prove a few power building mods for our cars as well (fuel pressure, hedders, ignition stuff). I've personally noticed a gain in performance with changing the fuel pressure (although, I was running lean to begin with). I've been wanting to test gains to be had with lengthening the runners as well (i'll be making plates soon, be happy to give you a set if they work...). Anyhow, let me know, Thanx

 

The dyno that i use is at school, the bad thing is that if you arent a student or dont know one of the teachers, well they wont let you dyno your car there. What plates are you talking about?? We should meet up sometime and have a discussion about this, or whatever. anyways what do you guys thing about that cam i listed earlier?? is it too much for the stock computer? -Matt

 

That isn't too radiacl for this. Compare its grind profile with that of the Crane 2030, i think it's pretty close. If all else fails, just have a Prom burnt (still trying to find out if it's do-able with the same software for the TPI guys. As for the spacers, they would go between the upper and middle plenum on the intake, thereby lengthening the runners. Funny, I see the guys on FirebirdV6 talking about throtlebody spacers being effective, I don't see how. They do nothing for the intake geometry-yet they pay over 40 bux for them. What I'm talking about actually WILL change the intake geometry. Push the torque down in the RPM band, and will lesson the transition on the sharp curve for greater velocity of incoming air. Might actually build a little HP too. That's why you can be a guinea pig . What Highschool did you go to (I assume you graduated recently). I had a friend who went to UTI a who had free access to a dyno. He graduated before I started my project...

 

noone has anyhting to say about what i wrote?

 

I don't know about a gear drive, but I have seen true roller timing chains out there for our cars. I've never seen or heard of a roller lifter setup for the 60*. Let me know how the dynomax compares to your baseline. It's one of the next things on my list along with headers and y-pipe once they come out for a reasonable price.

 

1. I know nothing about cams.
2. Timing chain, cloyes makes a roller, 100 bux, have to remove the middle guide.
3. Rockers, you must buy NARROW BODY (aka center bolt) rockers. I have only found 3 brands, and you must change rocker studs also. Plan to cough up about 3bills for this.
4. Roller lifters, see #1

 

Hm. That's odd. Supposedly in 88 or 89 (I forget which, sorry!) the 60-degree v6 got "lighter, lathe-turned pistons", which I assume to mean forged. I think you'll be fine on the juice as long as you don't try to send a 150 shot down the intake!

Like was said, Cloyes makes a true-dual-roller timing chain for our v6's- and it's the only one out there! (Any other chain is the stock link type.) I put one on my car at 180,000 miles. I got it from SummitRacing.com, and used a Fel Pro timing gasket set to install it.

From what I was told a lonnnnng time ago on the General Tech forum, supposedly, if a v6 cam grind is similar to an emissions-legal, computer-friendly, CARB-certified V8 cam, then that means the v6 cam will also be emissions legal & computer friendly. I also was told that it's mostly about the vacuum that specifies if a cam will be computer-friendly... which (if I recall correctly) is based on lobe separation & overlap. Again, IIRC, a min of 108 lobe sep meant the cam would be computer-friendly.

But that was a while ago and I might've mixed up the details on lobe sep & overlap... anyone else?

Oh and thanks for the current dyno info (and the promise of future info)!! It'll help a LOT!

 

don't do it lenny

I know this will **** people here off, but I wish someone bitch slapped me when I was in your shoes with the same asperations.

Think of all the gas I could of bought with that money.

 

what are you talking about blade?

 

It's gonna cost abit to make a lot of power. Cheaper to buy a V8 car... Personally, I'd rather spank some **** with a V6....

 

company plans right now are to build a sixer as radical as humanly possibly, but only for "wow" purpose, really there isn't much to it past that as the price of of the modifications would far out-weigh the power gains, but the fun of it, and being able to say you did it is worth it enough.

 

Now that I think about, alot people did "bitch slap" me. But it only encouraged me.

I travelled the V6 road. The V6 is now in back hatch of v8 donor.

 

last post was me, password for that name came to me in dream.


anyhow, about what you wrote

That cam is good, I have the same numbers as 2030 but cheaper brand. If you want it and lifter, you pay shipping... can supply number when I'm home.

It helped, but power is more toward uper RPM's, to race you will be manualy shifting.

Never tried rocker Idea, but that is pretty expensive. was $40 x 12 when I checked.

timing chain. there is a HD silent set-up that I used. You pay shipping...

Dynomax helps, sounds awesome.

since your talking long term. your best bet is to buy any part that would suit a V8.

start at suspension, when I replaces steering gear with one from v8 I was seriously impressed. get WS6 rear springs, stash v8 fronts for later.

 

I'll take that cam off your hands. Might be a little better than what I have. My goal isn't to race V8 cars (have beat a couple though), my goal is to just have a fun daily driver.

 

i mainly want a good road race car that handles well and sounds good and is pretty light. iv been thinking about the 3.4 swap also. my main goal was to get at least 200 hp if not more and then put about a 75 to 100 shot on my car. but i have heard many times that out pistons are very weak in the piston skirt area and cant take much nitrous at all without them cracking. im not sure about that but my teacher said that, and hes a big f-body fan and knows his stuff pretty well. are the 3.4 pistons strong enough for it or what? give me some input on this guys, if the 3.4 is strong enough and the 3.1 isnt then i will definately go 3.4 route. if i go v8 then the only v8 i am going to do is an LT1 if anyone has info on an lt1 swap let me know too. -Matt

 

Road racing and nitrous oxide don't mix.. pick one.

 

You need the 3.4 block to get your 200hp goal, cost effectively. And from what I've seen with my 2.8 blocks....hmm I don't think I would be putting nitous into a 2.8. Maybe a 50 shot, not very often.

PM me with email addy for stuff. There are 6 good .020 over pistons, 4 connecting rods also. I'm in canada, so it could take awhile to get there. I'd rather see someone use this (hard to sell stuff) rather than melted $$$$

electrical stuff and trans, those I'll try to recover some $$$ from

 

Gratuitous Dynomax pic

 

Rest in Pieces ****