I've been trying to adjust my TVC to where it shifts normally. At what speed range does the tranny shift into overdrive? I'm not used to these overdrive tranny's and I want to be sure that I'm not adjusting that cable incorrectly. I have it adjusted to where it sounds like it is shifting gears at it's designated speed range all but the overdrive gear. It doesn't engage until the speedometer hits somewhere around 45 MPH. Maybe this is normal, and since I never had a car with an overdrive tranny, I have no reference point to go by.

Just for reference sake, this car's TVC cannot be adjusted by what the Hanyes manual says. It doesn't shift anywhere near normal when that procedure is applied.
Any input would be appreciated.

 

Mine goes into overdrive at 40mph, when the car is warmed up. Shifts later than that when cold.

 

Push the button on the side in and grab the black cable and pull it towards the firewall until it stops and release the button. Next take the throttle lever and slowly push it to the wide open throttle position with your hand. You will hear a ratcheting sound as you do this, it is the TV cable resetting itself. Release the throttle lever and that is it. Note: do not operate the throttle lever using the gas pedal in the car when adjusting the TV cable.

 

43-45 is about the speed mine shifts if i'm not taking off real quick. Otherwise about 50

 

I tried adjusting the TVC according to the way Trickster stated, ratcheted cable adjuster out by hand and by gas pedal, unfortunately, it doesn't work. Second gear winds out way too long. and I get no downshift.

However,

I think I finally got it. Had to ratchet it out one click at a time until it started to shift normally. Overdrive gear engages at 40 - 45 mph.

Thank's for the input.

 

I just swapped trannys this weekend, and when I went to adjust this, I couldn't even find the adjuster tab you are supposed to hold in. Where exactly is it?

Is this adjustment just to remove any slack in the cable at idle? Or is the adjustment you are making not even visible? One of my manuals said this adjustment affects line pressure when shifting, so I would guess it's pretty important to get right.

 

Actually, the procedure in the Haynes manual is directly from the offical GM/Helm Service Manual. (Get one at http://www.helminc.com ) If you adjusted your TV cable by-the-book, and the trans started acting up... well, sorry to say, that means your trans is shot. It can't operate anymore at the proper line (fluid) pressure.

The TV cable isn't a downshift/upshift cable, it controls line pressure inside the trans. Now, line pressure -does- affect shifting, but it also affects other things, such as, making sure your clutches have enough fluid going to them. If you drove with the TV cable misadjusted for years and years (like the previous owner probably left you with), you should start saving up $$ for a rebuild.

I'm on my 2nd rebuilt trans, if that makes you feel any better.

BigOgre, the tab they're talking about is large, D-shaped, and faces "inward" towards the center of the plenum. You'll have to lean over the passenger fender and look at the adjuster to see the dull-gray-metal tab. I have to push mine in with a screwdriver... I've never been able to push it in with my thumb or finger- partly because I can't get enough leverage on the damn tab!

Tip: Before you guys adjust your TV cable for the first time, you should take a bottle of whiteout, and make a mark where the cable's rectangular piece (stuck to the cable) slides into the front of the adjuster. That way, if you adjust the TV cable by-the-book, and your trans acts funny (like gunfixr's did), you can put the cable back to it's original position without doing more damage.

I knew a kid that had a Monte Carlo, with the 200-4R trans (4 speed auto) and a 305. We adjusted his tv cable b/c his trans was acting up, and I made the white-out mark first. Wow, I was glad I did- his trans didn't want to shift at all, and when it did, it banged into gear. We got back to my garage and I put the cable back to where it originally was (way out of spec, by the way- too far forward), and then his car acted like it used to. It still acted like crap but at least he was used to that.

Oh yah, the farther the cable sticks out of the adjuster (towards the front bumper), the LESS the line pressure will be. But, you can't go cranking up your line pressure by adjusting the cable inward (backward, towards the firewall), because the first time you floor the gas, the cable will adjust itself - it'd be like doing the by-the-book method.

 

I got my TVC straightened out to where it shifts correctly. Had to it by trial and error mainly because the ratching mechanism is not working properly in the self-adjusting unit . Pushing in the "D" plate wasn't easy, I actually had to push it in and up towards the top of the plastic housing in order for it to retract. This is where my problem originated and this is why it wouldn't adjust according to the Haynes manual.

 

Wow, what a difference the TV cable makes. On the drive to work the torque converter wouldn't lock up, and the shifts were really high. I tried adjusting it a few times myself, and nothing seemed to change it.

This morning I drove it to local tranny shop to have an expert look at it. He drove it around, checked the fluid, then checked the TV cable. He could see that it looked OK. He had me turn the car off, then get inside the car, and put the peddle at WOT, and I heard it rachet! I hear the mechanic go ah-ha!

Turns out, I had partially pulled out the TV cable out the back of the bracket when I was swapping transmissions, but it looked OK. So the car cable was always telling the tranny that there was more throttle than there ever really was (why it shifted so late, and no converter lockup). When I mashed the gas with my big old heavy foot, it pulled the cable housing all the way into the bracket and adjusted itself perfectly.

If I had just gone WOT on the way to work, it would have fixed itself. I'm just happy everything is working OK.

I was quoted about $900 from local mechanice to replace with a used transmission (using old torque converter and existing mounts), >$1500 to rebuild and replace. I did it myself for:

tranny $200
torque converter for $120
Tranny service kit $15
Tranny mount $20
8 quarts of Mobil1 ATF $35
Cooler flush $15.

Total $425

I'm pretty happy, learned alot, and feel like I have a tranny that shouldn't need a thing for several thousand miles

 

Damn, I must've read the Chilton's manual wrong when I adjusted it, because mine was all the way forward. I figured the trans just didn't like living behind a bigger torque converter

I adjusted it to the way it's supposed to be and I took it to 6000 and it still didn't want to shift

I've got it in the middle right now and it seems like I've got a lot more 'Go' from a stop, but I've gotta go about 4/5th pedal for it to shift, which is about where I was so this is a happy medium.

Damn, anyone got a race built 700R4?

 

When the TV cable is adjusted how many clicks are expected?

I managed to do the adjustment and it only clicked once.

I think my car is shifting ok while cruising.

It shifts at 4k at WOT.

 

I don't hear click,...click,....click,...click,...click in a secquential order. I only hear CRRRRLICK! , all compressed in one time.


Denis V.

 

i dont think i want to mess with this adjustment, think i could just take it to a tranny shop and have them adjust it? will my tranny be fine just driving over there and dropping my car off?

 

Like I said earlier; make the white-out mark first, then adjust it, then drive it. If it drives like crap (like gunfxr found), put the cable back to the "out of adjustment" white-out mark, then start saving $$ for a rebuild.

 

Is it bad for it to be right to the front (less line pressure)? Will this cause some kind of problem?

 

Lower line pressures mean less force holding the clutches and bands locked, meaning more slippage, more heat, accelerated wear, and generally shortened transmission life.

 

Hi I have a 91 suburban 350 5.7l 2wd with a 700R4 trans with a shift kit in it. Over night my truck will not shift out of 1st with out stomping my gas peddal and it will shift at 5500 or more before it shifts. do I have a problem with my valve body on my trans or the cable? See Last night i was racing someone and the peddal got soft and felt different and then it isnt shifting right this morning I need some help please... thanks Brian

 

LOL @ the post from the dead.

I would first suspect the cable, especially considering the pedal felt different. 700R4's are notoriously picky on the TV cable. Not sure on a suburban, but you could try and see if its a self adjusting one and do the self adjust.