I have a 84 firebird with a 2.8, this is no stock motor, yes i no it is still a v6.
things ive done to it-
crane cam,
comp cams roller tip rockers
edelbrock highrise intake with 4bbl adapter
holley 390cfm carb
high flow water pump
high flow mech fuel pump
new push rods,
new lifters
removed ac and emissions stuff
now for the tranny,
i have a th700r that was just rebuilt , and added a shift kit to it
i can chirp gears hard holding them out till 5500rpm if i want and it takes it no prob

the car came stock with ws6 suspention so it handles great already

what i want to do is try to win a few heats by tweaking my setup , maybe lower the car , or somthing , nothing major,
anyone have have any ideas on how to get a few more ponies out of this thing or how i can get it to rev faster, or even how to get it to stick to that track so i can drive around someone who will slide from the amount of hp they have.

this track is commonly won by **** burrners so if first heat i go agiant a twin turbo eclipse im ****ed. but other wise i think i may have a good chance , i have 3.73 gears with posi so i can lunch pretty good but i need a bit more .

thanks agian guys

 

first of all, how does that 4 barrel carb setup work for ya? i've got the whole setup and want to install on my car but haven't gotten to it yet. do you have to run about a 4" cowl hood?

for setup...get a set of about 17" wheels with some low profile slicks on them. it'll hook really good then. do a search on agood2.8 he has lots of custom suspension mods and lots of pics on this site.

for quicker revs, higher compression does wonders! nitrous will do it too but, well, yea.... which cam do you have? what ratio rockers do you have on the car?

 

i had to add a few inches to my hood for the clearence, i could close my stock one if i was carefull enough but it stuck up in the middle , so this gave me the motivation to do another mod iwanted to do, i put a 79 trans am shaker scoop on my hood and mounted it so it can be removed f needed,

my 4bbl works pretty good it is a holley so needs a bit more adj that is one thing that may help with the ponies and line speed.
the rockers are 1.5 ratio roller tip
and i belive the cam was 272 duration but i cant rember all the specs on it, i could get the if it would help.

i cant put slicks on at this track they have to be reagular street tires, so i have 215/65 15 goodyear eagles. they stick pretty good.

now for the comprestion how can i go about increasing that with out doing bottom end work to my engine, o and i cant use nitros either at this track.

 

Camber & caster, Loosen them and bump the mounts as far inward and towards the rear that you can get them (You'll only get maybe -1* camber, and you keed every bit of caster you can get for high speed you'll be close to 5.5*)- then set your toe to about 0*

My car is setup for extreme street use only, not extreme track use. I would set things alot more radical if this were a track only car. My current specs are:
caster; L/+4.6, R/+5.3
Camber; L/-0.80, R/-0.92
Toe; +1/16"

Note: I have custom made strut mounts that allow me to get aprox -1.75 camber and aprox +6.25 caster if wanted for track setup. Stock mounts will not allow this without alterations. Also my mounts have a solid bearing that keeps the settings more constant, unlike the stock rubber dounut mounts. You can buy some mounts fairly simular to my HMS mounts from Spohn in the above advertisements.

To make this car ulimate in handling for track use, I still need to drop my rear panhard mount 2" and then add as much caster as I could get to take out the highspeed twictyness- this car steers like a damn jetfighter- too quick at higher speed driving straight, it always feels like it wants to be setting left or right (thats where caster helps.

Check out the cardomain site I setup for pictures of the car. You will see a few one of a kind frame braces I have in the car also.

Agood2.8 , Dean
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/518752/1

 

for running an oval track, you'd want the drivers side strut mount moved to the outside of the car. i'm assuming, since you said oval track, your runnig left turn only...my specialty. just not in my camaro. from the front of the car, you want to see (exagerated), /-----/ so that the tires will 'roll' flat when you hit the turns. do you have the car lowered and/or stiffer suspension? i know you said you have ws6 suspension but is it just the stock ws6 setup?

that carb setup clears the stock hood?? also, you could run 114 octane gas or even alcohol in it when you go to the track.

 

i had to add a custom hood scoop to give me the clearance.
i have thought abuot getting some race fuel for the day , maybe ill try it out one day around town see if it helps,
i also plan on redoing all the bushings and greasing every fitting to be safe since its 20 years old, i want to try some solid aluminum bushing in the front since they are amazing for circle track, i have sesatrac struts and shocks those are brand new .

 

Technically yes, but if he's driving the car to the track on the street, he'll end up killing himself or others with it set just for lefthanders- car wont even really drive straight too well either if set like that. Now if he's trailering the car, then were talking a different sinerio, but I don't think thats the case.

 

here's my issue. circle track cars are strictly non street cars. I have never once seen a roundy round car driven to the track. UNless, this is for single car practice/time trial only, but still there is a very good chance the car is going to get smashed.

Now, if it is a trailered race car, that's a whole different story. Circle track raceing is really complex in what you want and need to do. You will not be able to get an exact setup from these forums, becasue each and every car is different to setup.

First thing first though, make sure you car is physically stiff as possible, SFC, Full system cage throughout car, anything you can do to make the car as stiff as possibel is the first hurdle to get over.

After the frame and body are stiff, Mounts, replace all and every mount you have with new factory rubber, poly's, or solid steel/aluminum. The less flex you can get out of all your mounts the better.

Now the suspension. The fun stuff. For the circle track the general rule of thumb is 1-3 degrees of negative camber in the right front, with about .5-1 positve camber in the drivers side front. Solid axel in the rear is unchangeable, so you will need to adjust this with wheel stagger, Wheel stagger in case you don't know is to find the tallest wheel out of the bunch and place it on the passenger side rear. This will give you a easier car to get to turn as the driver side tire will need to be about 1.5-2 inch's smaller in diameter. This causes the driver side tire to turn faster than the passenger to help the car to follow the turn better.

The setup you have for suspension compnents sounds good for a typical street driver or even a very mild road track runner. But for circle, you will need to do alot more work. I do not know what the rules are for the division you are running, so I can't really tell you the stuff you can and can't get away with.

 

1.5-2" smaller in diameter?? maybe in circumference...that seems like a little too much for diameter. also, the smaller is on the driver's rear because it will turn slower, not faster. this is so that you don't have to have the left rear tire slipping as much while the car is turning left. as far as the camber goes, i meant that you could try to just 'eye-ball' it and adjust once you get to the track. i don't think that running that much camber in that fashion would be a real good idea on the street either. i don't know if you'd want to try to adjust it at the track or not, i've never done it on my camaro so i can't say how hard or easy it is to do.

 

this is why im having so much trouble, ive worked on race cars at my previous job, i helped set up the toe and camber and everything evern weight distribution, but i never learned when things needed to be done and how to tell what one to do, all i no is how to adj each thing.

here is the track rules, the race i want to enter is called the specator drag, its a one lap drag race around the track looser heads home winner moves on untill there ar just two cars left then it is a 2 lap show down.

SPECTATOR DRAGS RULES:
1ST COME - 1ST SERVE DAY OF THE EVENT

$25.00 Pit Pass Fee - No car entry fee.

CARS ONLY - NO CONVERTIBLES. ENTRIES MUST BE REGISTERED WITH THE DEPARTMENT OF MOTOR VEHICLES, HAVE A CURRENT INSPECTION STICKER. NO REPAIR OR DEALER PLATES.
1. Tires must pass state inspection, tread depth of 2/32nds or better across face of tire.
2. No grooved slicks or recap tires.
3. Corsa series or Competition R-rated tires intended for autocross are specifically banned.
4. TREAD WEAR RATING MAY NOT BE BELOW 100. Tread wear must be clearly marked on the tire by manufacture or tires will not be eligible for use.
5. No tire stagger permitted (Tires must be the same size from left to right).
6. Tires must be DOT approved for highway use.
7. Tires MAY NOT travel past outer edge of body.
8. No tire softeners or treatments permitted. If found you will not be allowed to complete in any future events.
NO NITROUS EVEN IF DISCONECTED. THE TRACK HAS THE RIGHT TO HAVE REMOVED ANY EQUIPMENT ON ANY CAR THEY FEEL MAY GIVE A COMPETITOR AN UNFAIR AVANTAGE.
Contact David Alburn for Info at 508-336-7443

PARTICIPANTS MUST HAVE A VALID DRIVER'S LICENSE AND BE 18 YEARS OF AGE OR OLDER.
LICENSE AND REGISTRATION MUST BE PRESENTED AT SIGN-IN.
NO PRIOR RACING EXPERIENCE AT SEEKONK SPEEDWAY PERMITTED.
HELMETS (NO HALF HELMETS) AND SEAT BELTS MUST BE WORN.
CARS MUST ARRIVE NO LATER THAN 4:00 PM
EACH DRIVER/CONTESTANT MUST SIGN IN THROUGH PIT SIGN- IN PROCEDURE.


basicly they want you to bring your street car and put it on
a circle track and see what its got, the fastest you can hit on the track is about 70-75 mph in a street car 50-60 in the turns other wise they start to push really bad and start drifftin towrds the wall, the track is narrow 2 wide is tough in some spots, 3 wide is un heard of at this track. not much banking to the turns there is some but nothing t obrag about.
i dont have a roll cage but im not to worried about it yet, i have subframe connecters, do you think the cage would help it handle that much, i think there are other mods that should be done first since its only a v6 and would look funny going down the street with a 8pt or 12pt cage in it

 

if your serious about racing at all, then you may want to get serious about safety, you might be good but there is always that stupid moron on the track that thinks he can take that turn at 120, in my opinion i would definatly get a roll cage, of not for handling then for safety