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timing chain cover woes...help!

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Old Jul 10, 2004 | 09:14 PM
  #1  
eddie jr's Avatar
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From: PA
timing chain cover won't come off...help!

ok, in taking off the front cover I have the water pump off and removed the remaining 3 bolts down low that are through the timeing cover.....oh, and the 2 that go through the oil pan into the cover.

I then pryed at the cover and it is separating a bit so the seal is broken but the sucker won't come off . It appears to come away from the block at the top and I can see it moving by the oil pan too but it is as if something is still holding it on cuz I was prying pretty hard. Those weired screws holding the timing tab on don't have to come off do they??

Also, the book says AC and power steering have to come off but they don't appear to be interfering with the cover. Is this true?? Or do other accessories have to come off???

HELP! Any thoughts? Am I missing something? I don't want to pry even harder and risk damage......

Last edited by eddie jr; Jul 10, 2004 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2004 | 10:51 PM
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Car: a car being parted out
Engine: blown up
Transmission: in peices
well. If you see an area that is not coming loose. Stop investigate the area.

On my other engine you cannot remove a cover until you remove the oil pump pick up. (It's an import engine) but it seems stupid right? Something you would not think of, or know unless you have done it before. If the book says do it, and if you have never done that particular task on that particular engine, DO AS THE BOOK SAYS.
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Old Jul 10, 2004 | 11:34 PM
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Doward's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
How the hell did you remove the water pump, without removing the A/C compressor and P/S pump? They bolt right to the water pump! So yeah, they have to come off (like Step 3, lol)

You have to unbolt the oil pan, at least the front two bolts, and first 3 or so on each side, to pull the lip of the oil pan down slightly, so you can pull the timing cover off.

There are two dowel pins in the lower portion of the block - yeah, they make getting the timing cover off a PITA, but makes it nice and easy to go back on, lol.

Make sure you've removed ALL the bolts.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 08:29 AM
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eddie jr's Avatar
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From: PA
No the AC and PS do not mount to the water pump (maybe a bit different in 85???) Pump was a breeze taking off.

Do you definitely have to take more oil pan bolts off? (i have the 2 offf that go into the cover). Won't the cover just come out with those off? How would you ever seal the oil pan again if you are only peeling some back and with the exhaust and crossmember there?

So that timing tab definitly doesn't have to come off?
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 12:23 PM
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eddie jr's Avatar
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Originally posted by Doward
There are two dowel pins in the lower portion of the block - yeah, they make getting the timing cover off a PITA, but makes it nice and easy to go back on, lol.
Twas those bloody dowel pins ! Thanks for the pointer. Man oh man were they a tight fit though
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 08:26 PM
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
lol, np... '85? Yeah, you've got a V belt setup - my '88 is a serp setup, and yeah, the a/c and p/s bolt to the waterpump
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 05:15 PM
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on my 87 they bolted to the water pump, but then again, it was a serpentine too.
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 02:37 PM
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
I guess up to and including '86 the water pump was not fixed to the ps pump (or ac or alternator) because I just did my water pump on the weekend and they did not have to come off.
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 04:38 PM
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From: PA
man oh man this orject is turning into a bloody nightmare The gaskets were just BAKED on the block and timing cover. It took forever to clean them NOw when putting in the new oil seal in the timing cover, it is bent down all around and curved in toward the centre because the round pipe i was used to install it was a couple mm to small I don't feel comfortable with it so I definitely want to get another one.

1. What do you guys usually use to install the seal??? is there a intaller you cant rent?

2. Also the rubber of the seal has 2 lips (inner and outer....the outer is just a hair bigger in diameter) and I assume both are supposed to touch the balancer shaft right? Right now only the inner smaller one does. That is why I am thinking of getting a new seal. Thoughts????
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 05:09 PM
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I've always used a big socket and a rubber mallet. Works good.
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 10:35 PM
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From: ****SoCal, USA****
Ya got stuff apart
Take some gas & "soak" the gasket loose.
Work it well and it comes loose.
Then for fun use a gasket scraper.
When ya think ya have cleaned surfaced?
TAKE WHITE PAPERTOWEL & RUN ON METAL EDGE
IS THE PAPER TOWEL CLEAN?
GO BACK & KEEP CLEANING!
Take timing cover to the store to go buy new gasket.
Aslo take harmonic balancer with ya
Get a balancer Snout repair sleeve ($4!) it'll help keep leak free seal. Let the parts store "insert new gasket" for balancer.
YOU DO HAVE NEW TENSIONER RIGHT?
Don't ya love all those belts in 1985 engine bay designs! I know them well!
I also let the new gaskets set/cure over night before I started car, to help all surfaces seal very well.
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 10:51 PM
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eddie jr's Avatar
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From: PA
Oops, forgot to come back to this thread GOt it all done though. Had to get a second front seal. Thanks for all the tips guys!
Originally posted by KED85
Get a balancer Snout repair sleeve ($4!) it'll help keep leak free seal.
YOU DO HAVE NEW TENSIONER RIGHT?
I also let the new gaskets set/cure over night before I started car, to help all surfaces seal very well.
4$ pffff, try 31 Don't know how that conversion to canadian dollars goes but that was a bloody rip off for a little metal sleeve.

Got a new tensioner and did as you did......let it sit over night. dry as a bone! woohoo!
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Old Jul 23, 2004 | 08:29 AM
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From: ****SoCal, USA****
$31 Canadian Dollars? for that sleeve?
Can't say much on that!
Sounds like it's in better shape now.
I'd slip the assembly together, start bottom nuts first (thread in) then get going on rest.
I have to do this job again on my Firebird.
I did not include a new tensioner nor the balancer sleeve on this, my first 3.4 swap.
Slight leakage out the front, yep.
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