Hey guys, how are you?
I have a big hesitation problem in the old 2.8. When I start off in first gr, The car sounds like crap and hesitates until around 2500 rpm, yes I do have a 5 spd. It seems to only do it when it heats up, but nto sure on that one yet. Just started today but is pretty bad. I wondering about plug wires, maybe they overheated or plugs are bad? They both are about 6 months old. Now the car sat and only went form my house to my neighbors house, right down the road. i recently got it on the road and now have this problem. I do have leaky injectors, but i don't think they would do this, any help would be great. Thanks

 

Any help guys? I now know it does not a;ways happen when its hot or cold. Mainly when hott, and sometimes goes away. It sounds like its backfiring and accelerates slow until it hits about 2500, even then it sounds terrible. Any help?

 

tps or maf

 

It has a brand new MAFsensor, the tps is orginal, that would cause spuddering? How hard is that to change. Thanks

 

The problem is getting worse. What are symptoms of a bad TPS, i also have a unstable idle, like its skipping. Any other ideas? Thanks

 

Throw a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what happens. Also, get the leaky injectors fixed, and when they're fixed (well, actually, when they're replaced), throw the fuel pressure gauge on it again and see what happens.

 

I have 38 psi when running, I think if it were fuel i would have a bigger problem at high rpms rather then low rpms, no? I'm hoping its a bad tps, the injectors do leak, but do not cuase a problem when running. What ya think? Thanks again

 

Honestly, I think you should replace the leaky injectors; it doesn't make any sense to guess at other things that could be wrong! Fix the injectors, then look for other problems.

 

Tomp. I work weekend and nights, i get out of school at 2:10 and work on weekend, boneyards are not open on weekends around here. I do not have the money for the injectors, nor alone do i have more for cash, i pay 300 a month for insurance because i am a kid driving a firebird, no tickets or accidents. I need to do a simple fix, i do not have much money, and the problems continues to worsen. I seem to have blown another dounut tonight on my y pipe, pissed me off, but then the noise went away, i don't even know if this is possible. Along with a new clutch next summer. Is there a way to test the TPS, i mean if the voltage is bad, what will it read? Sorry if i seam like a jerk, just a terrible night, Thanks

 

I'm not trying to be a jerk either! I got my current '86 Firebird when I was a Senior in High School, way back when in 1994, so I know about high insurance and costs. But you can guess at every single possible part of your car and it won't make sense, because you've already got leaking injectors! There's not going to be any simple fix other than that.

Have you even discovered which injectors are leaking yet? You might just need ONE injector; $60 at a parts store and you're done. If you pull the injectors to test them, pick up an O-Ring kit, made by Standard, part # SK-9. You can't re-install injectors with old o-rings, you'll cause vacuum leaks.

Besides; think about this- if you fix the leaky injectors, you'll probably save $$ on gas.

Go to something like yellowpages.com, put in towns that are nearby, and search for "junkyard" or "Auto wreckers". I bet you'll find some town that's a half hour away that has a junkyard open on the weekends.

TPS will read 0.55 volts +/- 0.05 volts with throttle closed- that's our V6 spec. Follow the tech article off thirdgen.org's main page called "IAC AND TPS ADJUSTMENT", but use the V6 spec.

Again, I'm not trying to be a ***** either, but I seriously can't help with anything else!

 

Yeah I know TomP. No i heven't had time to look at the injectors. I did replace the TPS. At WOT it reads about 4.36, is that ok? It still fricken hesitates. LOL It only does it when it heats up. I don't understand what it could be. I know, I got to look at those injectors TomP, but big lack of time I really don't think the injectors are giving my this problem but i may be wronge. Anything else TomP, your helping out alot here And the car gets all the power back at 3500-4000, if it were not getting fuel, it woudl have a harder tiem at that high of rpm. This problem comes and goes. Thanks

 

Another thing, I am getting codes 32- and 13. Could my egr system not be functioning correctly and making the car accelerate terrible? I have had theses codes for the last 2 months and even pasted inspection with them, now my cars been running terrible, You think this could be a problem. The egr vacuume solenoid is $95, so i don't want to buy it for nothing, any ideas of testing this. Thanks

 

check the vacume hoses areound the egr for breaks

 

All brand new hoses

 

really where you get them hoses? i need some

 

if its getting progressively worse, i'll second tomp's suggestion of changing your injectors. my car had awful injectors that were simply dumping fuel into the manifold.. the car wouldn't respond to throttle, would idle like crap, then die. if it gets to this stage.. then its your injectors or maybe even your entire fuel rail, as was my case. just sharing my experience and pitching in my

:edit:
missed your post on the codes... sorry, don't know what they mean, but definitly find them out and look into that..

 

Thats ok, not its stays about the same, Seems to get worse around 180 in temp. I'm almost sure its the egr system. That saliod is making the car run like crap. Is there a way i can disable the system for now? Thanks

 

Okay guys, did a little more work tonight. I unplugged the vac selaniod for the egr but that did nothing, even unplugged the egr, measured the amount of vac coming from the egr when driving, it didn;t go up past 5 psi. I think it low, but if it were the problem, wouldn't it go away after unplugging the sensor and the egr vac tube? I don't know what to do, any ideas? Thanks