OK, guys, I got to get new tires, and an alignment, so I'm doing some work.

I want you guys to let me know if there is anything I should double check while I'm into all this.

4 new tires - Kuhmo 711 - 245/50/16's - 4 of them, for $260 brand new.

4 new Gabriel Ultra (Autozone's version of the Sens-A-Tracs) shocks

New DropZone V6 Springs (1" drop, IIRC)

New Inner Tie Rod Ends
New Outer Tie Rod Ends
New Lower Balljoints
*New Spohn Heavy Duty Tie Rod Adjusters
*Upper Strut Mounts
New Inner Wheel Bearings
New Outer Wheel Bearings
New Wheel Seals
*New Idler Arm
*New Centerlink (both replaced about 1 year ago)

So what do you guys think? Toss all that on, then the new tires/alignment? The stuff with the * is stuff I don't have yet - Would I actually need them?

I'm wondering about the upper strut mounts - @ $60 each (KYBs through Summit) they aren't cheap.

And the $50 for the Spohn Adjusters - do the stock ones really flex? I may get these anyway - I don't like the idea of the stock 'clamped' on ones.

I probably will do the Idler Arm/Center Link, just because I'd rather have all the parts wearing together.

I'm thinking new upper/lower control arm bushings might be in order, too. As well as new motor mounts, while I have the lower A arms pretty much undone.

What do you guys think?

 

Doward-

I did a similar suspensoin rework last winter.

Used TRW parts- Balljoints, tierod ends, sleeves, center link, idler arm.

I used the KYB gas a just shocks in the rear and GR2 struts in front.

The same tires, which BTW are great in the rain for a wide tire, well, any tire I've ever had!

I went with Eibach sportline springs, can't tell you how much they lowered it over stock because the car was lowered with cut stock springs when we got it. Actually, the springs raised it a smidge from what it was.

YES the springs are for a "V8 Application" but they work fine and the car sits level.

All new Energy Suspension poly bushings- I didn't grease 'em and they sure are squeaky!

I boxed in the lower control arms with some 1/8" plate as well.

Ride is firm, but not objectionable (to us, I'm sure grandma would hate it)

Corners like a slot car from what it used to be or stock. I had it up in the mountains in Virginia and Tennesee last month and it was a blast! I still have to install the wonderbar I have, and fab a strut tower brace.

Eric

 

And here's the other side!

 

If you have a little extra coin, go for the KYB's from Summit. I have those on my 'bird. World of difference better shock for not much more than the Gabriel's.
I have the AZ shocks on my '91 and can't stand them. They make the car feel like I'm driving a marshmellow. Of course, some people like that kind of ride feeling I suppose... just my opinion though...

 

i have dropzone springs and KYB GR2 and gas adjust. i love the ride, well for an f-body anyway youre gonna have to get two alignments, unless you can get it really close and wait a month for the new suspension to settle in. once those springs settle, it will pull, mine did pretty good.

 

I would also recommend the KYB GR-2 struts up front and the KYB Gas-A-Just shocks in the back. I have them on my '89 RS and I love them. I put some Sens-A-Track struts on the front of my '87 two years ago and I don't feel that they are as stiff as the KYB GR-2's. The new KYB stuff sure made a world of difference over the old stock stuff on the '89, of course, so did the Sens-A-Tracks on the '87 for that matter.

 

eric17422001,

your Camaro looks as low as mine with stock springs! I think mine might be worn after 308,000 miles!!!

I noticed that all of the aftermarket spring lower the car. I want a normal ride hight. Do you now of any aftermarket springs with a normal ride hight, or should I go with the stockers?

-Will

 

Lowered V8 front coils (aftermarket like Eibach's) will make a lighter weight V6 car sit at normal height. The front end does not weigh as much as a V8 car does so the lowered V8 springs will not compress as much and cause the V6 to sit about 1-1 1/2" higher than they would in a V8 car. Get lowered front V8 springs, BUT, get normal (non lowered) performance V8 rear springs. You will need stiffer aftermarket "stock height" V8 springs in the rear because the fronts will be stiffer in balance ratio to just stock rate V8 rear springs, and softer V6 stock rate rear springs will be even worse front to rear balance. (so three basic levels of spring stiffness'es for the rear- V6 stock, V8 stock, V8 performance- all three will have the same ride height on the V6 AND V8 car in the rear

Stock rear V6 springs, and stock rear V8 springs basically will sit the car at identical ride height in the rear, however one will be stiffer than the other.

Lowered V8 aftermarket "front" springs are a stiffer rate than stock V8 springs on a V8 car- and will be even stiffer on a V6 car than a V8 car- even at the higher ride height. Hence why you NEED to increase the rears to a performance V8 spring rate, just only make sure the rears are for stock hieght on a V8, not lowered like the fronts need to be.

I hope I made this as clear as possible to understand

 

Depends on how much money you've got! Your idler arm and center link are pretty new, you might not want to buy them again. Did you buy Moog parts, or generic linkage parts?

You also wouldn't need new wheel bearings if yours are fine; I repack mine at every front brake job. Some guys never repack them (and that's why changing the front pads takes them 20 minutes)! Look at the bearings to find any scoring or scratching or heat damage (bluish metal). If there's no damage, just repack 'em and of course use new grease seals. You can get new ones if you want, they're cheap enough, but if the current ones are still ok... it's up to you. I use synthetic grease on mine.

You've got no upper control arms, so you're okay there. LCA bushings are great if you've got the time- my thru bolts rusted to the original bushing's center sleeves, so the job took me forever. Hopefully you won't have any rust, and you can remove the LCA bolts easily. (I had to grind/chop/sand/chisel the bolt heads and threaded ends off.) If you do the bushings, think about getting new bolts & nuts from GM- do a search on the suspension board, I list the GM part numbers for them.

Upper strut mounts; again, if yours are fine, no need to replace them unless you want to. My passenger side one was from my '84 parts car- and the bearing was so worn out that it was gone!! I had to replace it, so I changed the driver's one at the same time.

You might want to pick up the spring isolators for the top of the front springs, and you might want to spend $20 on the Super Starter Kit from http://www.por-15.com to coat the LCAs while they're out. (I was tired, so I just coated the top (spring side), because I can always get to the bottom side.

The tie rod adjuster is up to you; I want one eventually, but at $50/set, I'll get 'em later. For now I just put on a new set of Moog stock replacements. Besides, I had gone overboard already (balljoints and linkage were all Moog, Suspension Techniques V6 springs that I had drop-shipped directly to me, KYB dampers, ES poly bushings, GM hardware, purchased an OTC ball joint remover)- along with all the time I missed from work because of the rusted bushings- I wasn't about to spend $50 more.

Oh, one thing you might want to add to your list is a new replacement rag joint for the steering box. I bought one, but never put it on... I meant to put it on when I put on my quick-ratio steering box, which I still haven't done yet either!

 

I want to add that I left all the spring isolators out. Doesn't seem to harm anything.

If I lived in a rural area or such I'd never have put in the lowering springs, but as long as you are aware of the ground clearance as we are it's not been a problem. The car is 5000 times better to drive than it was when we got it and it had the hacked up stock springs, worn out shocks etc.

I did the linkage parts in the winter of 2003 because the thing was unsafe with the amount of play it had in it. I then did the springs etc. in 2004.

I will say that I'd rather do body work or pull and build an engine though!