Hey guys, been a while since I've stopped by. Haven't had much time(and money) to do much to the car til now.

Heres my question, its 2 parts.

Question #1: I'm looking into buying a toolset but not sure what kind. I hear good things about Craftsman but I also see that Stanley seems to be a reputible brand as well? Which would you prefer (or do you think both are just as good)? I have NO tools cept for a dinky 9 piece metric wrench set. I'm looking into at least an 80+ piece set

Question #2(actually relevant to this board)

I remember a while back someone had suggested to me that my oil leak problems were due to the distributer O-ring. I did that lil checkup and it seems to be that is the problem. Can anyone help me out as to the steps I need ot take to replace it? I'm very n00bish to cars and I'm desperately trying to learn, but I"d hate to do somethign wrong with the distributer and cause a misfire or something (have the car not start altogether) I did borrow a distributer tool to remove it (the bolt I guess)

Any help is greatly appreciated for both questions.

 

alright, helping you through things.

For your first question. Craftsman is a very reputable brand of tools, they're guarenteed for life, meaning, when you break one, take it to your local sears store, and they'll give you a new one. Stanley is also a very well known name, they've been around for years and years, their specialty however was household tools, screwdrivers, hammers, saws, etc. On the contrary, Stanley also owns many namebrand tool sets, i believe they even own MAC, so, i'm guarenteing you'll get a good working tool from them, if you didn't, i'm sure they wouldn't be willing to put their name on it. Either way you'll probably be in pretty good shape. One question is, how easy will it be to get replacement tools from stanley? I'm sure they're offered under a lifetime warranty, but often times (with cheapo brands atleast) that means you'll have to mail your broken tool in, and they'll send you a replacement from the factory, and in many cases, the trouble you'd have to go through would make it easier to just pick up another tool somewhere else, for a cheapo replacement. So, find out how easy it is to replace broken stanley's and go from there, that'll be your biggest bang for the buck.

On to question two. The tool you described is a distributor hold down bolt wrench, (probably a funny shapped wrench, maybe an L shape) You'll use that to get at the holddown bolt at the base of the distributor shaft. You'll have to take that bolt out, and remove the hold down clamp in order to get the distributor out. (removing the bolt, allows the clamp to be free and move also, try your best not to drop these behind the engine, as if they fall ontop of the transmission, you'll have fun getting them out, hasn't happened to me, but its' always a fear at the top of my list, not a big fear, but one none the less...i hate fishing for lost tools and hardware) neway, after that's out of the way the distributor will lift straight out, depending on how often it's been pulled b4 by the previous owner, and how old/brok-in/worn your engine is, will make the difference on how easy it comes out. I can remove mine w/ a twist and tug, however my motor has 50,000 miles on it, some people have described feelign the need to sit on the enging block and pry w/ a crowbar, hopefully yours won't be that big of a pita.

Prior to loosening the hold down bolt however, and removing the distributor, it'll be a good idea to remove the distributor cap (lil' black thing that the plug wires go into...don't know how "newbie" you are, so thought i'd spell it out) and then you'll want to mark the location of the rotor (whitish/yellow thing ontop of a little shaft, sitting directly under the cap) , the rotor is what allows the engine to fire essentially, where it's pointing is where the engine is firing or ready to fire at, you'll have to note this location (mark it) that way you'll be able to get things put back together in the right direction. If you don't mark this, getting things running again can prove to be a very tedious and difficult process. Neway, after everythings set, you've got the rotor marked and aligned, and you've got the distributor marked as to where it was sitting, start yanking away.

Pull the distributor out, replace the o-ring (think it's on the distribuotr base, not 100% though as i didn't replace mine when i had it out (was no reason too, worked fine) then reinstall. Ked85 had an article about this somewhere, he also recommends using a SBC distributor gasket with the re-install, this according to him will essentially eliminate the potential for leaks in the future. Good luck, hit us back if you have some more Q's.

 

oh man thanks a whole helluva lot, I'm gonna take my hand at this tomorrow afternoon, so I might get back to you then.

As for the Stanley tools replacement, I'm not sure how it works out. It would suck if I had to mail back the tool and wait forever for a new one. If that were the case I'd go with Craftsman just for convenience. I really don't think theres too much a difference in price between the two. Walmart sells stanley tools and walmart is usually cheap, so that may be the price advantage. Altho again, I wouldn't mind paying 10 extra bucks knowing that if something happens, I can just go back to Sears and get the broken tool replaced.

As for the distributer gasket kit, I'll see if the O'Reillys in my area has one that I can just pick up. Hate to order it online and wait forever heh.

 

distributor gasket should be no problem to get, and they'll definately have them in stock. Same should be true for an o-ring set, be a good idea to bring ur old o-ring in, and size up the correct one, unless they have it in the computer and have the ability to pull up the part number. You might be able to find it online if you search around on the o'riley or autozone websites.

 

Sorry it took a while, weather and money didn't help with my quest to fix this lol

Major problem. First off the distributor bolt wrench a friend let me borrow didnt fit the bolt. It was a 9/16 in fitting. It just barely doesn't fit (too small)

But second, I've found "puddles" of what I think might be oil. It could be another fluid though, which is why I post it here in hopes of maybe finding someone who has noticed this before and might be able to tell me whats the deal.

Heres the pic

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...04/OilLeak.jpg

Seems to be on the intake? Close to the valve cover and under the carb. But it doesnt seem to be anywhere near the Oring (although I did get my new ring and will install asap)

 

an o-ring leak won't be on the top of the intake manifold, essentially you'll have to feel for it, but, seeing that the engine isn't really "clean" then i'm guessing you're going to find sludge, oil, and road grime all over the back of the block, so, feeling it may be hard. If you've got an oil leak (puddle on the ground when the car is sitting) then there's a chance that it's ur o-ring, especially if it's leaking from the rear of the engine. That also looks like an oil leak, but, could be water that's puddled onto the intake, has picked up some of the sludge, and is giving it a brownish appearance. Same time, it could be some fuel (but i don't know how fuels routed on the carbed engines) if so, it would pick up greese really easy, as it should break it down, however, gas will evap, so it'd have to be a pretty steady leak if it's staying around.

Odds are, it's oil, and its coming from the valve covers, very easy fix, easier than the o-ring. See if you can "blot" it up w/ a towl or shop rag (don't scrub, just blot down and up) see how soft it is (make sure it's a liquid essentially) then you'll want to see if it comes back, turn the car on and let it run for a bit, see if it comes back from that, see how long it takes to come back. Unless it's bothering you, it probalby isn't that big of a deal, just something to keep an eye on, but at the same time, if you want to fix it, that really isn't much of a big deal either.

If you're really curious if it's oil or not, pull ur dipstick out, smell the stuff on it, then, blot that area, and smell the rag, should be pretty similar. Gas smells real different, and i bet you can pick it out, etc. Only things that are runnin through your engine anyway are coolant (green) and Oil (brown) tranny fluid lines run to the radiator but not through the block, and if it's water, it's leaking in, as if it was coolant leak, it would probably be a tad more green then that.

 

The distributor hold down on our cars is a 15mm.

If it's the distributor o-ring, there will be a puddle on the ground. From what I can see, I'm going to say the valve cover gaskets are done. replace the gaskets and hit the whole engine with some castrol super clean.

 

To access the 15mm bolt down there
Obtain from Sears, the swivel socket with 15mm on end.
USE THAT PLUS 6" extension & ratchet.
That'll get loose nut.
Distributor.
YOU CAN MARK IT BUT
Seriously, it only FITS one way.
The connections are at basically 9:00. Final adjustment is done by engine running & ear/timing light.
Removal can be extremly difficult due to length of time between last distributor installation.
Wiggles/jiggles/pulls all assist. PULL up from solid feeling base.
The "O" ring is generally easy to obtain
Finding the Chevy Small Block Distributor base gasket is, yes, essential.
Upon removal of distb. assembly, attack the area with white paper towels, until clean.
Rebuild your distributor while in your hands
Easy/detailed project, do a search for my distributor rebuilding thread.
WHY?
You'll never want to do this job again! Promise
Do it now.
Upon reassembly, lube "O" ring with film of motor oil. THEN apply a FILM of BLACK RTV to both sides Chevy gasket.
Slip SBC Disbt gasket over shaft, place back in engine.
IF you did NOT disturb engine while disbt outta car, you're in great shape. Most fun now is getting bolt back into the hole. Leave assembly bolt "loose" start engine, adjust, tighten firm. GO for drive, job well done.

Does your engine bay have a connection like this? What is it connected to?

 

Ok thanks for the response guys

Lemme get a chance to look over my car today and I can respond to all your questions KED

Kretos- I'm thinking that might be my problem. As you can see, those covers are nasty as hell lol

 

Same part in question
Wider shot of subject.
Thanks!
I'd love to know if your car may have that wire end connection going to something.
I know the other connection is for the carb choke plate heater.
This oddball connection is a mystery.

 

Karl -- Now that I look at the connection closer, I think it should go to the EGR solenoid which would bolt to the driver's side Valve cover.

 

Alright
The subject is 1985 S-10 Blazer
FEDERAL VERSION
I have the schematic next to me & I see no EGR solenoid.
My EGR is "manual"/vacuum activated.
I just double checked Helms, too.
In my vehicle example....
This connection is a mystery.
Don't ask if wires are powered.
No answer to that yet.
I also know I'm "missing" one wire for that carb heater plate connection.
Lord knows where they went.
IN END, I may just bury, so no biggie. Been this way since 1989. Going to new people for smog work & ya know.....

 

Well it also resembles the plug that would go into the A.I.R. management Valve. My 83 Camaro has two -- one gray, one black. the egr on is a white plastic

 

OK I can accept what I think happened.
Previous owner had this in an accident prior to me & 1989 ownership. Back in Alabama.
I'll chalk this up to something "done" under hood.
I'll hide that wire/plug.
Will check if power goes thru there, first, but I'll hide wires.
Hell the EGR has been plugged since 1989, too! Discovered that upon engine removal!
Of course I replugged it.
We'll see what happens with smog testing soon.
I got enough other maze of hoses going on in there. Should be easy to bury.

 

Small update.... After picking up a set of stanley tools, only to find out how utterly useless they were, I sent them back. Instead I won an auction on ebay to pick up these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWN:IT

my friend has the same set and can testify to how good they are. Plus lifetime warranty. Can't seem to go wrong.

As for distributer... that hold down bolt still can't be out yet lol I need to borrow a 15 mm from my friend tomorrow and get that sucker out cuz i really want to replace the O-ring. Plus I might replace the distributer cap while im at it, seeing as there are some dirt hanging around where the metal tips are (which indicates bad lol)

Oh and on a side note, I took part in rebuilding a used chevy quadrijet and helped put it in my friends car. So many parts to a carb, such a simplistic way of delivering fuel but such a complex lil deal. Took us about 6 hours to get all the stuff together and on his car, ran into some snags but got it all taken care of in the end

Btw its a Chevy Caprice classic 1984, with a 305 V8 (LG4) That big boat has some power though, estimating his at 200 HP 310 torque (hes done a few good mods to it)

just wanted to share