V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

airconditioner

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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 08:49 PM
  #1  
rol1's Avatar
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From: Las Vegas
Car: 92 bird
Engine: 6 cyl
Transmission: auto
airconditioner

I'm putting things back together but I'm having fun trying to find out why the compressor clutch is clicking on and off when the mode control is on anything but off. The cutting off is the pressure switches and freon problem, but why would it keep cutting in?

Where is the airconditioner compressor relay?

In the Helms for the 92 Firebird (Tricksters .pdf's file dude1d.pdf, page 6, 7 & 11)

http://66.83.134.202/travis/91FbodyWiring/ MrDude_1 has these up.

The wire colors are grn/blk, dk grn, dk grn/wht, and pnk/blk. I have not found it yet.

Are these pages also for an automatic v6? A couple of them says c60, manual in the corner. Is there a different air delivery diagram for the v6 vin T?

I don't have vaccume at the ac control head. I have vaccume at the check valve at the intake, at least enough to affect the idle if I pull the vac line there. Under the dash at the double connector I have no vac. I don't see or feel any kinks so I wanted to know if there is a valve or switch to cut off the vac?

Last edited by rol1; Dec 22, 2004 at 09:40 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 09:16 PM
  #2  
Gumby's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
As someone from Ohio I would suggest you roll down the windows and just enjoy the heat. Shoot turn on the heater and enjoy. You will be much more comfortable then I am.

There is a plug, some times on the big aluminum canister or the plug on the compressor. You can jimmy rig it with a paper clip to make the system turn on and stay on. Not sure which one though.


It can help to see if it even works right.
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Old Dec 23, 2004 | 03:50 AM
  #3  
bru333's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
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From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
I see this at work all the time.
The pressure switch is in the low side line. When the refrigerant level is low it will come on until the pressure drops in the low side line than the pressure switch kicks it off. You have enough pressure to let it come on. Just not enough to maintain pressure when the compressor starts sucking the gas out of the low side. Checking with a set of gauges would confirm this.

Last edited by bru333; Dec 27, 2004 at 04:17 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2004 | 06:39 PM
  #4  
rol1's Avatar
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From: Las Vegas
Car: 92 bird
Engine: 6 cyl
Transmission: auto
The freon pressure was expected.

Maybe the relay would keep the compressor on?



Where is the relay?

The lack of vac at the conector at the black tube that goes through the firewall to the violet vac line that goes to ac/htr control head may have something to do with the control flaps?

Is there a control on the vac line between the check valve by the manifold and the conector under the dash that I can't see? The helms diagram



may be different for the automatic.

I tried blowing thru the 2 black vac lines that go thru the firewall but could get nothing.

Last edited by rol1; Dec 23, 2004 at 06:48 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #5  
oldschool's Avatar
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From: USA
Car: 1985 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 2.8 LB8 HO
Transmission: 700R4 with OD
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 7.625 open-factory 3.42
bru333 has it nailed down: the compressor cycling on and off means a low R12 charge. You need freon. Jumping the compressor to engage and run with a low freon charge runs the risk of damaging it, since the freon also carries the refrigerant oil that lubercates the compressor. Assuming no leaks, just recharge your system and you should be fine. As for the AC system operating when the selector is switched to other modes such as heater, and defrost, this is normal too. When the outside air is within certain temp. ranges the car's computer switches "on" the AC compressor, in the heater/defrost mode to dehumidify the outside air before it is heated by passing through the heater core, and then ducted out the floor vents for heat, or the windshield vents for defrost.
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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 01:21 AM
  #6  
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Modesto, CA USA
Jumping it to run all the time more then just risk compressor damage. It WILL damage the compressor. If you are low on R12 you are low on oil as well. Obvious damage will insue.
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 09:39 AM
  #7  
rol1's Avatar
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From: Las Vegas
Car: 92 bird
Engine: 6 cyl
Transmission: auto
I don't plan on running it jumped.

But I have to do something about the vac at the control head.

I don't know why there in no air passing through the firewall. Is there a different diagram for the v6 vin T automatic trannies?

Hey Trickster. Is there a page for the air system on a auto?

Oh yeah, Where is the air relay on the 92 firebird?

Last edited by rol1; Dec 29, 2004 at 09:44 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 12:40 PM
  #8  
Buck89RS's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Rural Hall, NC
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: 2.8L MPFI Bored 30 over (Rebuilt DEC 2004)
Transmission: 5 - SPD With 3.42 open rear end
While you are at it you might as well convert your A/C system to R-134a cause R-12 is very expensive and hard to find. That way you can find the leak and fix it and it wont cost you an arm and a leg.

-Buck
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