Idle Problem...
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Idle Problem...
When the car is cold, the idle is too low to stay running for more than about 5 seconds... I can kick the idle up by adjusting it at the throttle body to a "normal' rpm, but once it warms up the idle is way too high. If i adjust the idle when it is warm, the car will revert back to the cold start problem.
The problem surfaced after replacing the EGR vacuum control solenoid, which was causing eratic idle and the car would die only when put into gear. The car idles smoothly now, but now has the problem above. The IAC has been cleaned (looks ok), timing is to spec, new air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor, and isnt giving any trouble codes. Anyone have any ideas as to what may be the problem?
The problem surfaced after replacing the EGR vacuum control solenoid, which was causing eratic idle and the car would die only when put into gear. The car idles smoothly now, but now has the problem above. The IAC has been cleaned (looks ok), timing is to spec, new air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor, and isnt giving any trouble codes. Anyone have any ideas as to what may be the problem?
Last edited by XSVortex; 12-27-2004 at 05:59 PM.
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Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
Is the solenoid a new item or a pocket-part from a junkyard/friends car?
MAKE SURE that the coolant temp sensor wiring is clean and seated properly. What you are describing is a classic sign of a bad CTS. The same results can be made by a poor connection, but won't set a light because there is continuity.
MAKE SURE that the coolant temp sensor wiring is clean and seated properly. What you are describing is a classic sign of a bad CTS. The same results can be made by a poor connection, but won't set a light because there is continuity.
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The Solenoid is brand new, and the CTS is about 6 months old now... the plug is clipped on the CTS... i unplugged/plugged back in to check the connection issue, and it seems like it is seated firmly(doesnt really move at all), and the plug looks clean. Any other ideas?
Last edited by XSVortex; 12-27-2004 at 11:50 PM.
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When the car is running, i can tap on the MAF sensor housing with a screwdriver and the RPM's dont change (at least this was the method i was told to check the MAF with). Is there any other way of testing the MAF?
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Well... there is no check engine light, and the MAF passes all visual inspections... the wiring, plug, and film all seem to be in good condition. It doesnt appear to be the culprit, but if i cant come up with any other ideas i might have to hit up a junkyard and see if it changes anything.
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Car: Chevy Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: V6 2.8L
Transmission: Automatic
My MAF sensor was in the same conditions you are saying about yours, when I did this service procedure I found out that it had a wiring problem. I can tell you more, the SES light could be off most of the time, but a good computer can tell you if the MAF sensor is working fine or not, in high or low.
Do that service procedure, check the IAC valve, and if it is really cold overthere, check the cold start switch to see if it is working fine.
Do that service procedure, check the IAC valve, and if it is really cold overthere, check the cold start switch to see if it is working fine.
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Thanx for the help... I was thinking it might be the cold start valve (havnt touched it since i bought the car two years ago), but it doesnt really get that cold here. right now it is about 60* outside, probably not enough to affect it that much. This problem is more of a nuisance than anything, but it would be nice to get it fixed. Ill check and clean the IAC valve again, as soon as i get my new heater core in (being very stubborn).
Last edited by XSVortex; 12-28-2004 at 05:08 PM.
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