30 bucks a week for gas, what a joke
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Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,352
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
30 bucks a week for gas, what a joke
As all you canadians know 30 bucks is almost a full tank. I have tried posting things like this before but i get all the answers i dont need. I drive maybe 30 kilometers a day, and spend 30 bucks on gas a week. Gas is at 83 cents a liter? So thats 36.1 liters(9.5 gallons) a week for lets say 150 (93 miles) kilometers. How great is that? Yeah, my car has a drinking problem. heres what i have done
- replaced PCV filter
- Fuel filter
- air filter
- dist.cap
- wires
- plugs
- rotor
- tire pressure is good
I DO NOT have an o2 sensor (canadian car)
When my car idles the exhaust is brown/blackish and leaves HUGE black steaks on the ground. It needs help.
INFO
1983 Camaro
2.8L v6
carbed
PLEASE help me solve this once and for all!
- replaced PCV filter
- Fuel filter
- air filter
- dist.cap
- wires
- plugs
- rotor
- tire pressure is good
I DO NOT have an o2 sensor (canadian car)
When my car idles the exhaust is brown/blackish and leaves HUGE black steaks on the ground. It needs help.
INFO
1983 Camaro
2.8L v6
carbed
PLEASE help me solve this once and for all!
Last edited by 83_Camaro_83; Mar 15, 2005 at 03:49 PM.
Supreme Member
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
hey man,
i also have an 85 berlinetta 2.8 auto
and im also in canada
and i also have z28 rims on my car
gas is also 83 here
and i also think my car is getting crappy milage now that i have a workplace closer to home (which you would think would help SAVE on gas.... but it isnt)
im getting 250km to a tank now and only drive 10 mins to work. i figure its taking alot of gas to warm the car up, and drive in the cold for such a short distance.
so youre getting 150km to a tank of gas?
my car has an 02...
sounds like your timing is off with the brown blackish soot your car is spitting.
id check your timing, and clean your egr, and injectors.
youre carbed... i dunno anything about carbs but it sounds like it may need to be tuned.
i also have an 85 berlinetta 2.8 auto
and im also in canada
and i also have z28 rims on my car

gas is also 83 here
and i also think my car is getting crappy milage now that i have a workplace closer to home (which you would think would help SAVE on gas.... but it isnt)
im getting 250km to a tank now and only drive 10 mins to work. i figure its taking alot of gas to warm the car up, and drive in the cold for such a short distance.
so youre getting 150km to a tank of gas?
my car has an 02...
sounds like your timing is off with the brown blackish soot your car is spitting.
id check your timing, and clean your egr, and injectors.
youre carbed... i dunno anything about carbs but it sounds like it may need to be tuned.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 1
From: New York
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Check your timing and make sure your carb is tuned properly.Make sure you cat is not clogged or anything.Below average engine temp (180 and below) will cause poor fuel economy.
and most of all,stop flooring it
and most of all,stop flooring it
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by 85berlinetta2.8
1) i also have z28 rims on my car
2) my car has an 02...
3) id check your timing, and clean your egr, and injectors.
1) i also have z28 rims on my car

2) my car has an 02...
3) id check your timing, and clean your egr, and injectors.
still cant sell those damn stock ones2) Where is it? Cause I dont think I have one, looked all over and someone said canadian made doesnt have them
3) whats an egr?
And I dont have injectors 
Originally posted by V8 Slayer
make sure your carb is tuned properly
make sure your carb is tuned properly

Originally posted by V8 Slayer
and most of all,stop flooring it
and most of all,stop flooring it

Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 1
From: New York
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Originally posted by 83_Camaro_83
3) whats an egr?:
3) whats an egr?:
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,248
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
my o2 is right ont he exhaust pipe behind the passenger side front tire. i can see it without even getting under the car.
and i just had my berlinetta rims refinished theyre all purrty now for summer. (im gonna be a bastard and put whitewalls on em too like the car came with)
and i just had my berlinetta rims refinished theyre all purrty now for summer. (im gonna be a bastard and put whitewalls on em too like the car came with)
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,352
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
How do i check this "phantom" egr
Yeah I definatley dont have an o2.....
Man ive been trying to sell those things for so long, they are to small and gross. NOw the Z28 wheels are hawt
Im gonna polish them one day
Yeah I definatley dont have an o2.....
Man ive been trying to sell those things for so long, they are to small and gross. NOw the Z28 wheels are hawt
Last edited by 83_Camaro_83; Mar 15, 2005 at 04:34 PM.
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,248
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by 83_Camaro_83
Man ive been trying to sell those things for so long, they are to small and gross.
Man ive been trying to sell those things for so long, they are to small and gross.
YOU'RE SMALL AND GROSS!
haha just kiddin
do you have a haynes manual?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by 85berlinetta2.8
YOU'RE SMALL AND GROSS!
YOU'RE SMALL AND GROSS!
Told my dad I wanted a V8...... Do parents listen? no Supreme Member
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Sounds like you are running too rich. Adjust the carb to put out less fuel and that might help with your problem.
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Try like some fuel injector/carb cleaner? I tried the Valvoline Maxlife additave a while ago and I actually noticed it helped...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,352
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by FAST RS
Sounds like you are running too rich. Adjust the carb to put out less fuel and that might help with your problem.
Sounds like you are running too rich. Adjust the carb to put out less fuel and that might help with your problem.
Originally posted by V8 Slayer
im paying like $30 bucks a week also
im paying like $30 bucks a week also

Originally posted by 305q_ta86
Try like some fuel injector/carb cleaner? I tried the Valvoline Maxlife additave a while ago and I actually noticed it helped...
Try like some fuel injector/carb cleaner? I tried the Valvoline Maxlife additave a while ago and I actually noticed it helped...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,937
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
I have never worked on 2.8 carbed car so i dont know. Might want to ask or do a search in the carb forum.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 85
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From: Goldsboro, NC
Car: 1983 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L-5.0 swap
Transmission: T-5 5 speed
You have a rochester E2SE 2bbl carb. There isn't really a screw to adjust the mixture because the computer controls the mixture. There is however a little ****/screw that will adjust the mixture at idle that is located on the very bottom of the front of the carb. It might still have a cap or something on it because the didn't want peaple to adjust the mixture for some reason It is hard to find if you don't know where to look because it is horizontal and under the carb caseing. The screw for the normal idle is on the bottom of the passenger side, and the high idle screw is on the throttle linkage itself. If it has never been rebuilt you can do it yourself for about $20 if you know what you are doing. It might not be just the carb I would upgrade your ignition with an msd or accel coil for about $40-$50. It did wonders for my car, those stock coils get weak after 22 years. Another thing to check is your vacume lines anything that looks old and brittle should be replaced.
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From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Car: '99 Trans Am, '86 Camaro
Engine: LS1, Scrap
Transmission: T56, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Stock ZT, 3.42 Open
Actually, it's an M2S*. Pure carb. Welcome to Canada. There is no computer, no MCS, no TPS, no O2. The basic adjustment is the same, though. The screw at the bottom is the idle mixture, and there's one or two screws in recessed holes at the top which control the primary metering rod. I'd definitely ask on the carb board, though, because while it's quite apparrent that very few people here know the first thing about the carbureted models, it seems absolutely noone knows about the canadian spec
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
GOOD NEWS. I might be able to make this week spending only $$28
oh, i never though i would see the day
But yeah, I went and put in some carb cleaner in the fuel. **crosses fingers**
oh, i never though i would see the day
But yeah, I went and put in some carb cleaner in the fuel. **crosses fingers**
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 909
Likes: 1
From: New York
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 3.1 V6
Transmission: TH-700-R4
A question from myself
Does an old Fuel Filter and Cap/Rotor cause horrible economy?
I have pretty bad economy also (12mpg) but,I tuneup my motor constantly.I just have not done those 3 things.I even cleaned the throttle body with TB Cleaner to get that brown **** off...
Does an old Fuel Filter and Cap/Rotor cause horrible economy?
I have pretty bad economy also (12mpg) but,I tuneup my motor constantly.I just have not done those 3 things.I even cleaned the throttle body with TB Cleaner to get that brown **** off...
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Oh I could only dream of having to only pay $30 per week on gasoline. You guys I think would sh*t if you had to pay my personal monthly gas bill. Between the wife and I its about $500 a month, about $60-80 of that being hers and she is a stay at home mom that doesn't commute to work everyday. Its $80 every time I fill up and thats on average about 3 times in 2 weeks- 8MPG(not the Camaro)
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
your probably talking a big V8 though? Im talking V6 2bbl.... REAL PERFORMANCE THERE......haha....yea. I need help
V8 Slayer - I belive it does. You need good spark to ignite your fuel, and if you dont have that, you will use more trying to get the car up to speed because of the loss of power.
(correct me if im wrong anyone)
V8 Slayer - I belive it does. You need good spark to ignite your fuel, and if you dont have that, you will use more trying to get the car up to speed because of the loss of power.
(correct me if im wrong anyone)
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From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Originally posted by 83_Camaro_83
your probably talking a big V8 though? Im talking V6 2bbl.... REAL PERFORMANCE THERE......haha....yea. I need help
V8 Slayer - I belive it does. You need good spark to ignite your fuel, and if you dont have that, you will use more trying to get the car up to speed because of the loss of power.
(correct me if im wrong anyone)
your probably talking a big V8 though? Im talking V6 2bbl.... REAL PERFORMANCE THERE......haha....yea. I need help
V8 Slayer - I belive it does. You need good spark to ignite your fuel, and if you dont have that, you will use more trying to get the car up to speed because of the loss of power.
(correct me if im wrong anyone)
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by 305q_ta86
Nope, you're right. Pick up a haynes manual and look up "poor gas mileage". It will tell you the same thing.
Nope, you're right. Pick up a haynes manual and look up "poor gas mileage". It will tell you the same thing.
But anyways, Im still on the carb board, I really gotta get this fixed.
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,989
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From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Try weight reduction. Lighten up that lead foot of yours.
Other than that I have no ideas atm.
Other than that I have no ideas atm.
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From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Time for a carb rebuild. It's leaking fuel internaly via the casting plugs. You car should have an EGR, it's on the intake manifold right next to the carb, has a flying sacer shape and has a vac line going to it. My vote would be rebuild the carb (have someone thats know what thier doing do it) pull the EGR off and check to see if the hole in the intake is plugged.
Edit: $35 a week is what it costs me in gas just to drive 9 miles a day.
Edit: $35 a week is what it costs me in gas just to drive 9 miles a day.
Last edited by SSC; Mar 18, 2005 at 01:36 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
my cars the same way, 150 - 170miles per tank. I actually just did a lil study of my own. Drove a week easy and a week going as fast and as quick as I can and it's only a 20mile per tank difference.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,248
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
my car has been having a real rough time with short trips in the cold. now driving 25kms a day im spending almost the same amount a week as when i was driving 220kms a day
Last edited by 85berlinetta2.8; Mar 18, 2005 at 02:56 PM.
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
maybe we should all try things one at a time and report results
its going to save us money its worth it
i change my plugs almost every oil change.
next oil change ill go with mobil (zero) 0w30 and the bigger oil filter so the car spends less time warming up and driving cold
its going to save us money its worth it
i change my plugs almost every oil change.
next oil change ill go with mobil (zero) 0w30 and the bigger oil filter so the car spends less time warming up and driving cold
Last edited by 85berlinetta2.8; Mar 18, 2005 at 02:54 PM.
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From: Brighton, CO
Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
hehe I spend about $50-$60 a week, of course my car is heavier, with a bigger engine, and I probably step on it more than you, and I'm sure I drive more.
Of course.. I also get 25MPG
Of course.. I also get 25MPG
Supreme Member
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From: Ontario
Car: IROC Z
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
youre also in california and your car doesnt have to digest -30C weather
and your car is 10 years newer
and american gas is better than canadian gas
and your car is 10 years newer
and american gas is better than canadian gas
Last edited by 85berlinetta2.8; Mar 18, 2005 at 06:22 PM.
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From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Originally posted by 83_Camaro_83
Yea, Im getting sick of this. Im doing an oil change next week sometime so hopefully I will get some results.
Yea, Im getting sick of this. Im doing an oil change next week sometime so hopefully I will get some results.
This gas milage issue has nothing or nearly zero to do with your 2SE carb.
I've got the same on my Blazer & it does fine.
Here's what ya do.
Get a new coil, a tune up, change the oil and also a better exhaust system. Check your timing. Not for "the mark" but how timing point reacts on the balancer. Meaning, if it bounces, your chain is worn and you do need to replace.
Add to the above list (things you "can do to improve milage") and factor in engine age/and decreasing torque produced.
As your engine ages, it makes less power requiring you to be more firm in your gas pedal usage, which equally produces more gas consumption.
Beyond that, accept it, change what ya can or get a newer engine/ride.
Or when ya own the oil comapny, you can then set a less expensive gas station price!
The carbs are decent performers. The air meter screw is a "Dog Boned" shaped screw on/in base. But in all honestly, not much can be done to the factory carb. Best suggestion is also rebuilding the primary shaft bushings. The rest of carb just seems to go along for the ride (no true performance gains from manipulation).
Really ya got an old engine, it takes more gas pedal to make it move and your milage decreases. Yes injesting a 3.4 certainly does help milage. It's called torque and more torque means less pedal.
I've got the same on my Blazer & it does fine.
Here's what ya do.
Get a new coil, a tune up, change the oil and also a better exhaust system. Check your timing. Not for "the mark" but how timing point reacts on the balancer. Meaning, if it bounces, your chain is worn and you do need to replace.
Add to the above list (things you "can do to improve milage") and factor in engine age/and decreasing torque produced.
As your engine ages, it makes less power requiring you to be more firm in your gas pedal usage, which equally produces more gas consumption.
Beyond that, accept it, change what ya can or get a newer engine/ride.
Or when ya own the oil comapny, you can then set a less expensive gas station price!
The carbs are decent performers. The air meter screw is a "Dog Boned" shaped screw on/in base. But in all honestly, not much can be done to the factory carb. Best suggestion is also rebuilding the primary shaft bushings. The rest of carb just seems to go along for the ride (no true performance gains from manipulation).
Really ya got an old engine, it takes more gas pedal to make it move and your milage decreases. Yes injesting a 3.4 certainly does help milage. It's called torque and more torque means less pedal.
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by KED85
injesting a 3.4 certainly does help milage
injesting a 3.4 certainly does help milage
Thanks for all that But I think the answer that makes the most sense would be the float getting stuck and just dumping **** loads of fuel. Cause everything else has been done.
Please don't misconstrue what I was implying.
The 3.4 is a torque monster compared to an aged 2.8.
I know I had TWO aged 2.8s One with the 3.4 (the Firebird) gas milage increased so much. The Blazer I can't wait to get finished for the road.
Torque & fresh engine internals will easily overcome anything you think is truly wrong.
But in all honesty, you can "check the float" by simply removing the top screws for access.
IF you "were" dumping fuel, you'd really know that, too.
You have an aged engine, a heavy car & high gas prices.
Try this.
Drive with an "egg" on the gas pedal. Try not to break the egg.
See if gas milage increases or your car "goes slower". I believe you'll find you need a hard boiled egg, to make your car move. It's more than likey just an aged engine
The 3.4 is a torque monster compared to an aged 2.8.
I know I had TWO aged 2.8s One with the 3.4 (the Firebird) gas milage increased so much. The Blazer I can't wait to get finished for the road.
Torque & fresh engine internals will easily overcome anything you think is truly wrong.
But in all honesty, you can "check the float" by simply removing the top screws for access.
IF you "were" dumping fuel, you'd really know that, too.
You have an aged engine, a heavy car & high gas prices.
Try this.
Drive with an "egg" on the gas pedal. Try not to break the egg.
See if gas milage increases or your car "goes slower". I believe you'll find you need a hard boiled egg, to make your car move. It's more than likey just an aged engine
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From: Moorpark
Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
Hey send a PM to Trickster he has manuals for basicly any car it seems like ask him if he can send you some info on your carb.
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
i was at an automotive place yesterday, i was gonna pick up a rebuild kit.....but there were 2 different types......wheres the stamp thingy so i can identify my carb?
Also Theres a little red tag on one of the bolts that says "Rebuilt in canada" then a number. But it looked super old cause it was just covered in crap.
Also Theres a little red tag on one of the bolts that says "Rebuilt in canada" then a number. But it looked super old cause it was just covered in crap.
On drivers side of carb body and on front face of carb there are "numbers".
Those numbers do determine the kit ya get.
Yeah the carb/kit is specific application. What's specials, I know not. I went thru same dance for my rebuild kit.
Those numbers do determine the kit ya get.
Yeah the carb/kit is specific application. What's specials, I know not. I went thru same dance for my rebuild kit.
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by KED85
On drivers side of carb body and on front face of carb there are "numbers".
Those numbers do determine the kit ya get.
Yeah the carb/kit is specific application. What's specials, I know not. I went thru same dance for my rebuild kit.
On drivers side of carb body and on front face of carb there are "numbers".
Those numbers do determine the kit ya get.
Yeah the carb/kit is specific application. What's specials, I know not. I went thru same dance for my rebuild kit.
So 75 bucks later I have the rebuild kit and new float. How long will this take? i really dont wanna be off driving
thanx
Let me offer this.
I had two rebuilds done on mine while I owned it.
First one, in the end, the guy just got carb to work better. Milage increase was more due to my other hop up tricks (cold air set up & coil & exhaust). Top speed increased too!
Second rebuild had done a year go or so. Vehicle still not road worthy due to CA smog laws. I have to get carb synched for smogging, no big deal, just time consuming.
Second rebuild took my friend 1/2 day due tot the throttle shft issue. We rebushed it, it was SO NECESSARY. And those primary shaft screws were such a pain to remove!
Your answer is it depends! I do strongly suggest ya get the primary shaft rebushed. Can you say vacuum leak and bad throttle pedal due to "sticking"?
PS My carb WAS NOT any computer stuff. YOURS IS. Federal version (49 state) 1985 S-10 Blazer carb is one of the last ones (if not the last one) like that.
I had two rebuilds done on mine while I owned it.
First one, in the end, the guy just got carb to work better. Milage increase was more due to my other hop up tricks (cold air set up & coil & exhaust). Top speed increased too!
Second rebuild had done a year go or so. Vehicle still not road worthy due to CA smog laws. I have to get carb synched for smogging, no big deal, just time consuming.
Second rebuild took my friend 1/2 day due tot the throttle shft issue. We rebushed it, it was SO NECESSARY. And those primary shaft screws were such a pain to remove!
Your answer is it depends! I do strongly suggest ya get the primary shaft rebushed. Can you say vacuum leak and bad throttle pedal due to "sticking"?
PS My carb WAS NOT any computer stuff. YOURS IS. Federal version (49 state) 1985 S-10 Blazer carb is one of the last ones (if not the last one) like that.
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by KED85
PS My carb WAS NOT any computer stuff. YOURS IS.
PS My carb WAS NOT any computer stuff. YOURS IS.
Canadian Version as mentioned by Tech Smurf "There is no computer, no MCS, no TPS, no O2"
Could a vaccum leak cause THAT much of my problem? Like thats alot of gas im burning.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
vacuum leak will cause an erratic idle more than anything...
what's your idle speed?
adjust your idle mixture screws on the base of your carb for max vacuum. sounds like that's a problem based on your explanation of the smoke.
Also, most importantly, cap, rotor, plugs. coil isn't necessary, but nice. those will DEFINATELY increase your mileage. (even more so if they haven't been done in a while...)
EDIT: Sounds like your carb rebuild kit shopping at my favorite place....
they don't need the # off the carb if they know what they're doing. There is essentially only one carb that could possibly have been put on your car. (2bbl at least). The kit covers ALL possibilities anyway, you'll have left over pieces.
it shouldn't take you more than 1 hour.... plan for worst case though, 3.
what's your idle speed?
adjust your idle mixture screws on the base of your carb for max vacuum. sounds like that's a problem based on your explanation of the smoke.
Also, most importantly, cap, rotor, plugs. coil isn't necessary, but nice. those will DEFINATELY increase your mileage. (even more so if they haven't been done in a while...)
EDIT: Sounds like your carb rebuild kit shopping at my favorite place....
they don't need the # off the carb if they know what they're doing. There is essentially only one carb that could possibly have been put on your car. (2bbl at least). The kit covers ALL possibilities anyway, you'll have left over pieces.
it shouldn't take you more than 1 hour.... plan for worst case though, 3.
Last edited by Sonix; Mar 21, 2005 at 09:01 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Sonix - HA i wish they didnt need the number off my carb. They had me run outside like 8 times cause something was wrong. Eventually the guy said if it has a remanufactured tag on it there will be a 4 digit number on the tag.....Sure enough i knew i had that so finally they go the number then needed.
Im gonna hold off with the kit for a while and see if turning that screw will do anything. If not I will rebuild it.
Thanks for all the help doods
Im gonna hold off with the kit for a while and see if turning that screw will do anything. If not I will rebuild it.
Thanks for all the help doods
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
remanufactured? like rebuilt?
WTF? Only napa claimed they needed that #....
all carb rebuild kits (that i've seen) are VERY generic, so they cover a ton of carbs. so even if you give them the wrong #, it'll still work. it has like 60 pieces, and you need 20. the rest are in case you have a different carb... the ones I got had pieces in case I had a hot air choke...
What place did you get it from???
well good luck with the adjustment.
WTF? Only napa claimed they needed that #....
all carb rebuild kits (that i've seen) are VERY generic, so they cover a ton of carbs. so even if you give them the wrong #, it'll still work. it has like 60 pieces, and you need 20. the rest are in case you have a different carb... the ones I got had pieces in case I had a hot air choke...
What place did you get it from???
well good luck with the adjustment.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
HOLY **** i just noticed you are the guy from calgary
Im from just outside of calgary
But yeah I went to Auto Value, and gave them the wrong number like 2 times cause it was so damn cold and my carb was dirty.
And yeah my carb has a red tag on it saying "REMANUFACTURED IN CANADA" obviously they did a crappy job
EDIT: the kit only came with like 20 parts but like 1000 gaskets. So maybe this was more of a specific kit?
Im from just outside of calgaryBut yeah I went to Auto Value, and gave them the wrong number like 2 times cause it was so damn cold and my carb was dirty.
And yeah my carb has a red tag on it saying "REMANUFACTURED IN CANADA" obviously they did a crappy job

EDIT: the kit only came with like 20 parts but like 1000 gaskets. So maybe this was more of a specific kit?
Last edited by 83_Camaro_83; Mar 21, 2005 at 10:55 PM.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
oh right, are you in Cochrane?
huh, what brand is it? mine are usually Niehoff, which is the stuff that, ready for a shocker? canadian tire carries.
realistically, it has about 18 "pieces", and 5 gaskets. roughly.
Maybe yours is more specific... and more expensive? mine was $33....
I'm also focused on a carb rebuilding thread for 305q_ta86, both of you guys being in the area and all... So I might be a little off...
huh, what brand is it? mine are usually Niehoff, which is the stuff that, ready for a shocker? canadian tire carries.
realistically, it has about 18 "pieces", and 5 gaskets. roughly.
Maybe yours is more specific... and more expensive? mine was $33....
I'm also focused on a carb rebuilding thread for 305q_ta86, both of you guys being in the area and all... So I might be a little off...
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,989
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From: Calgary, AB
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
*** I hate that username. Why I had to pick it, I have no idea. Name's Ryan.
Well I guess we're really in the same boat, Curtis. This'll be cool. And it's good to know there's someone else in the city that can possibly help if we get really really screwed up lol.
Well I guess we're really in the same boat, Curtis. This'll be cool. And it's good to know there's someone else in the city that can possibly help if we get really really screwed up lol.



