Hi Guys, I need some help with it..I am working on the exhaust system and of course, here in NJ no one escape from rust...I need to tight up some bolts that are completely rusty, what is the best way to work them before trying to tight them up? any idea? WD40 or torch? Thanks a lot!!!!

 

PB Blaster is better (I know Advance has it, not sure where else). Soak 'em good the day before and again before you try to turn 'em. You still might break them if there isn't a lot of metal left under the rust.

 

In end it may be wise to visit someone to do the job on a lift using air tools.

 

That is right, I am going to my friend's garage to do this job, it could be a pain in the neck if the bolts break off....I am gonna try to get that PB Blaster...let is see what I get..!!! Thanks!

 

Man I wouldn't even bother.
Your just asking for a whole hurt of trouble.

Rectanly I had 1 broken manifold to Ypipe stud. Same kind of deal as you. The 3 others rusty bolts broke off trying to fix 1. Then I had to dril out each bolt 3-4 times with different size drill bits. Man my arm hurt for days.

Just be prepared to change and replace parts. Make sure and have some sharp drill bots and a handfull of 98cent lb nuts n bolts.

Myself there was no way I was gonna drill them hole then tap in new studs. I used nuts and bolts. Next time. Just wack the nut off with air chisel, push it out. new nut n bolt for 30cents.

 

Thanks Gumby, I am aware of that for sure, actually the only thing that I need is to tight up the bolts that merge the exhaust manifold with the ...let is say.."catalytic converter pipe" I do not even want to touch that exhaust manifold at all....I do not want to confirm that you are danm right Gumby! By the way....I got the PB Blaster, the friendly guy from autozone told me that it is very good too.....Let is see the results!

 

Ohhh you sure its lose bolts leaking??? I had a leak in that area too. Turn out that clamp that holds the two pipes together. Had rusted though on top. So I could not see it but knew it was loud from that area. Ended up replacing that whole section with some new pipe and quick JBweld.

I don't like how clamps distort the pipes so I get everything to slip fit then quick JBweld it. No leaks and by time its needs changed again. The JB has broken lose.

I got some pics how the pipe had rusted where it leaked but I couldn't see it to fix it. Might be your problem.

 

 

Funny thing is its a good that happened to me.
That joint clamp came in handy as one of my manifold clamps was so thin and rusted, it was useless for clamping force. I use that part to replace it. Then took the two stock ones. [both very rusty and thin] and welded them together into 1.

It all seamed to work out like it was planned.
[The Lord works in mysterious ways.]

 

So how did it go???

Right now I got my whole exhaust in the yard in pieces. More hidden leak like the pic above. The whole section of pipe from mid body and over the axle. Looks good, no rust. Except for on the very top. Looks like the pipe seam line just happen to end up there and the whole seam rusted out. The whole way down. But only where you couldn't see it and from the looks of the rest of the pipe, it should be fine. Nope. I just lost a good 4 feet of pipe.

Think I'm gonna run it down the right body line and exit it before the right tire.

 

Well, actually I did not pay more attention on that issue, since I do not have enough time to work on the car by now....the only thing that I know is that the part from the cat changes its position depending if I get a pothole, so I try to avoid messy streets.....I would like to fix it right away, but no time at all.....since you have to heat it up with a torch and work hard from underneath of the car all the time.....PITA!

 

Regarding the rusty/stuck bolts, the same thing happened to me when i was trying to replace my starter. for a week straight i was drenching this one bolt in WD40, using a breaker bar, hitting it with a hammer, having other people attempt it... In the end, I decided to just have a shop do it, hoping their impact drills can do the trick. Its still there now so i'll let u know how it turns out when i get the car back.

 

These bolts are the ones at the back of the cat, at the flange? If you have a good 6 point socket and a breaker bar, they should crack free- they're thick enough. Your biggest concern would probably be against stripping the head of the bolt. And don't use an extension between the breaker bar and socket. Use hard/quick yanks instead of a slow steady pull and they should break free. (Watch your knuckles)

When you get home and the car cools down, reach under there and spray those bolts with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (I've found LW works just as well as PB, go figure). Do that for a few days in a row. It'll give the stuff time to penetrate.

 

Yeah I can figure what you said transammike....in my case I have plenty lifter and air tools availability at my friend's garage, the problem is like I said....not enough time..only sats morning can stop by there and do something quick on the car...
That is right TomP, the issue is at the flange, I got the PBlaster, sprayed some around it but in the first attempt nothing good happened so I was affraid of have to leave the car in the garage for the rest of the week and have to come back on monday to spend some hours fixing that thing...I am going to take your suggestion TomP, and of course the experience of TransamMike as well. Thanks a lot guys! I shall let you know when I get it done!